Liquid metal filler takes bluing

[nekshot]

I saw a fellow use a liquid substance to fill large pits on a old derringer barrel. He sanded the metal smooth and applied cold blue and it all looked like metal. At first I thought he used 2 part JB Weld but when it took the blue I was not sure. Any ideas what filler would take cold blue?

[pietro]

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I'd like to know, also - too bad you didn't ask him (or, did you see it online ?)

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[country gent]

I believe Plastic Steel has a steel filler in it may take bluing. Bisonite bedding compound had hardened steel grindings in it and might. You could try your own with a epoxy and steel filings For a filler I believe I would mix the filings a little on the heavy side. maybe 1 teaspoon filings to 1 teaspoon epoxy. This may need to be adjusted a little to get the filing concentrations up to where it is an even blue. Also leave it "proud" and file sand down this will expose the actual metal from the epoxy allowing it to blue.

[nekshot]

this fellow seemed to keep his containers out of sight and did not speak. I am gonna try some metal powder\grit from grinder and JB Weld. I bet thats what it was. He applied browning solution also and it rusted. When done it sure looked good with the rest of the metal.

[jaguarxk120]

Look up Devcon epoxy steel.

[woodbutcher]

Might give Grizzly a check.They have some liquid inlay stuff that is metal.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Remiel]

I kinda want to know how too for my 35rem m95 build

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[john.k]

i would think an epoxy with a very fine steel,or iron powder would cold rust blue.......iron powder can be as fine as colloidal.....which means it doesnt sink in water.

[nekshot]

My test with JB Weld was not that great. I added grindings in the mix till it was getting a thick paste. I tried cold blue one part and browning solution on the other part. Neither looked workable. So I need to get some of the mentioned epoxy and try those. I am going to try more testing with JB and some other epoxy I have on hand.

[Bulldogger]

There is clay consistency two part mix comes in a tube called QuickSteel, that claims to have steel powder in it. It's good a strong when it's new, I've even CAREFULLY tapped it per the promises on the label. Never subjected it to force, it was just holding on a cover of something. It might take blue. I got it at Home Depot I think, or Ace Hardware.
BDGR

[country gent]

It will take a high concentration of steel filling in the epoxy. Another will be to leave proud enough to sand down to expose the steel to the bluing browning solutions so it can rust. When just applied the steel is completely coated with a thin film of the epoxy sealing it from air and the solutions. Using grinding waste might be best but here you would want to get the ash slag dust from the grinder then drag a magnet thru it to remove just the steel particles. In that dust is as much or more broken down grinding wheel and bonding agent as there is steel particles. All you want or need is the steel particles. The other will take space and is not able to be blued browned so it leaves a poor appearance

[john.k]

i think Loctite make a steel filled epoxy................the one ive used is Devcon,but its very expensive,and unless someone else is paying for it,I use something else.We once got cartons of Devcon tungsten carbide filled for a special application....lasted about 1 day.....cost thousands.

[nekshot]

It will take a high concentration of steel filling in the epoxy. Another will be to leave proud enough to sand down to expose the steel to the bluing browning solutions so it can rust. When just applied the steel is completely coated with a thin film of the epoxy sealing it from air and the solutions. Using grinding waste might be best but here you would want to get the ash slag dust from the grinder then drag a magnet thru it to remove just the steel particles. In that dust is as much or more broken down grinding wheel and bonding agent as there is steel particles. All you want or need is the steel particles. The other will take space and is not able to be blued browned so it leaves a poor appearance

Sure glad for every ones input, I will use a magnet and try again.

[country gent]

In reality steel filling may be better for this. filing from draw filling will have few impurities and in better condition for this. grinder waste has been heated red hot and my affect how the metal blues due to hardness changes. Also "burnt" metal may not take bluing as well.

Put a piece of steel in the vise with a sheet of paper or rag between jaws and steel laid over jaws and as long or longer than bar. Lay file on bar 90* to bar and hold flat on surface one hand each side. push and pull back and forth draw filling to make filler. The sheet of paper or rag will catch these nice crisp clean fillings and they will be ready to use. A fine 6" file makes very fine chips like this and cuts them pretty quickly. Experiment with different file lengths and cuts. A long cut file really cuts a heavy chip when draw filing almost like small needles. A double cut may cut a smaller diamond like chip draw filing.

Another way would be to use coarser grit paper on a flat surface and sand your material with the paper here 100 - 120 grit may give desired chips. Here again drag a magnet thru to remove broken down grits and impurities. Here a drill press could be set up and used at low rpms to spin the stock on the paper a offset shaft in a hole stock would spin elliptical pattern on paper on sand paper allowing it to cut almost unattended here very low rpms 100 rpm or less is desired since the part is spinning in an out of balance state. A heavier piece of stock would be preferred here also to increase friction. some double faced tape to hold the paper down is a plus. A spring could be used on the offset shaft to provide pressure also.

Here cold roll, 4140, 8620, or any alloy can be used to make the same filler as the parts. Another consideration is to clean chips in alcohol before use. Here a simple bowl with alcohol swirl with filings in it and let settle down for 5-7 mins and gently pour off the alcohol. Let the chips dry for a day or 2 or burn off the residual out side.

[nekshot]

SUCCESS! I used a magnet to get steel grindings and mixed grindings in JB Weld (out of tubes) and really made it thick thick and thick. Seemed like it was setting up real fast compared to normal set time for JB. I put thin coat of epoxy on barrel metal pits, gouges before adding the steel. Then I applied and smoothed out the steel grinding mixture leaving it on heavy. A couple days later I filed smooth and used 180 grit to get barrel smooth. Yes you can see the epoxy thru the cold blue but more coats to barrel make the barrel darker. This is gonna take some practice to get it good but it does work.

[country gent]

You'd be surprised how much grinding wheel, bonding agent, and other material is in that slag from the grinders. Ive seen guys use them to deburr aluminum brass copper wood and plastics.
The steel and heavy particles are removed and discarded in the first grading when using this to make lapping compound the bonding agents normally never settle out but float.

[Winger Ed.]

The process might work better with a clear epoxy rather than the gray JB weld.
And pull out the filings with a magnet to avoid the non-metallic stuff coming from the grinding wheel itself.

[Kev18]

I asked the guy in the comments when he posted the video. Company is Lunda and the product is called Kyt for Blacken.
Thats what he answered me. Alot of people wanted to know.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogZO...58544873247725

[NyFirefighter357]

I have traced this product to the Czech Republic. I have contacted a supplier, waiting for an email back.

[Remiel]

I have traced this product to the Czech Republic. I have contacted a supplier, waiting for an email back.

Any word back? I want to order some and would like to know if you have heard anything.

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