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Thread: Neck sizing and decapping

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy burch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    cerrosafe ...


    That’s interesting. I like that guy too. I’ve used his videos to do a trigger job on my M44
    buzzard`s gotta eat, same as the worms
    Josey Wales

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    For wads Ive been using NAPA .060 thick rubber fiber gasket material. Cork LDPE card board waxed juice containers can all be used. A lot drop a newsprint or tracing paper wad between wad and bullet also to keep the heavy wad from sticking to the bullet. In 45 caliber .060 is pretty predominant but .030 has followers also. What you can do to find what your rifle load likes is buy the first roll in .030. then load with 1 wad (.030) 2 wads ( .060) and 3 wads (.090).
    Another if your rifle seems to need more lube is a grease cookie wad of .030 between 2 wads to add lube.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by burch View Post
    I’ve never heard of sizing after loading. I’ll give it a try and thanks.
    I do it on my three 45's but I use dies I made for the job
    I shoot fat boolits (.460) and use my outside swage die for about 1/10th inch of the case mouth on the 45/70 reducing it to .480 OD (rifles are an IAB sharps and a Chiappa '86)
    my 45/75 gets a very slight touch with a crimp die into the top lube groove then a pass the full length of the case neck with a .4855 die.

    About the best gadget I have bought in many years of loading is a LEE universal decapper die - its been faultless since I got it .

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Attachment 242425
    A hot air gun and a clean vessel does a better job making a clean chamber cast.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy burch's Avatar
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    My c.o.l. turned out to be 3.010 which is .002 off the lands with one grease groove exposed. Does that sound about right. It’s hard getting consistency when you’ve got different length cases and different length bullets. My longest case is 2.095 so I’m guessing they’ll need to be fired a couple times before I’ll have to trim them.
    buzzard`s gotta eat, same as the worms
    Josey Wales

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I use a FL sizer and FL resize and my best is a RCBS that sizes the neck to .472. I have a Redding neck size only and it sizes to.468. The more you have to expand, the more problems I have created. I have neck bushing dies from three different makers and they all created run out in my loaded ammo. I intend to try a barrel lap on my Redding die and see how well that works.

  7. #27
    Banned
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    Pound casting. use drillbit bases to find needed diameter,
    drill 2-stage hole in between 2 pieces of wood and clamp wood together.
    melt pure lead and fill the hole(s) with pure lead









    wrap barrel, secure in a clamp with plastic under the barrel


    lube barrel and slug, insert the slug
    pound the slug flush with a lead hammer, mark the brass rod with the depth of the chamber and stop before you get that far
    use barrel diameter rod to tap out the slug






    this is on a 7.62x 25 Tokarev bottle necked case

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Mar 2005
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    4,612
    There are several ways to deal with loading the .45-70 to accomplish some of your loading goals.
    1. You can use a hand punch to knock out the old primers. Lee makes a good hand punch that you can buy. You use it with an 8 oz plastic or dead blow hammer.
    2. Neck sizing can be accomplished by partial sizing or by using a bushing die or by using a neck sizing die. Redding makes a 45-70 neck die and Lyman makes a 45 cal universal neck die.
    3. Some shooters do not size at all. A bullet is just inserted into a fire formed case. Some crimp and some don't. You can get away with this by carefully handling your ammo when loading your single shot.
    4. I size my cases and I also expand it to barely grip the bullet. I use specialty expanders sold by Track of the Wolf that fit in the Lee .45-70 expander die. I use expanders that are the same size as the bullets so the only grip I get is from spring back of the brass or about .0005. What ever it is, it is not much. The reason for this light grip is to make the bullet seating depth non-critical. My loaded round length is about a rim thickness longer than the chamber permits. With the light grip on the bullet I can chamber the round against the bullet and then push the round into the chamber with my thumb and the breech block.
    If done carefully and consistently the builets are pushed back into the brass giving a uniform length when fired.
    5. If you flare your case mouths you can iron the flare out with a Lee FCD. You can also straighten out the case mouth with a light squeeze using a seating die (with the seating punch backed up) or with a FL sizer.

    Quote Originally Posted by burch View Post
    My c.o.l. turned out to be 3.010 which is .002 off the lands with one grease groove exposed. Does that sound about right. It’s hard getting consistency when you’ve got different length cases and different length bullets. My longest case is 2.095 so I’m guessing they’ll need to be fired a couple times before I’ll have to trim them.
    EDG

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check