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Thread: Some advice re 9mm HP boolit

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by armoredman View Post
    I am not familiar with that item...
    it's a little jig with a dedicated drill bit for creating HPs in loaded rounds. Works well for small runs, say for hunting or perhaps SD. I had one before I ever bought an HP mould and it worked fine for rifle and pistol. Get the larger version if you get one (1/8" bit), more versatile. Can be used in the Forster trimmer or you can just use a drill press (my way) or even a hand drill.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Nifty, thanks. I like the NOE molds, will have to save up after I pay off bills and some people.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    When you get the molds from MP or NOE with the pins you will have more then on mold for the same price. I have both and they work for me. Just change the pins to what you want then go from there.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    I have the HP mold from mp, very nice mold! However, it’s brass and heavy and the HP function complicates everything a little. I jumped on his later offering of a flat point 130gr in aluminum with 8 cavs and gosh does that thing RAIN bullets! For 95$ delivered it’s plenty economical considering the rate at which you can produce. After getting used to bigger aluminum molds im having a hard time appreciating brass anymore. Nice to look at but not as easy to use for sure. Anyway, if a FP will work, look at that option. Of course as mentioned the HP Moulder comes with 4 profile styles to choose from. Round point, flat, and two HP shapes. Pretty cool.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I love brass molds, but they do take a LOT of pre-heating and are heavy as anything.
    I won’t buy a brass mold over two-cavity.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boolseye View Post
    I love brass molds, but they do take a LOT of pre-heating and are heavy as anything.
    I won’t buy a brass mold over two-cavity.
    I just don’t know what the advantage of brass would be. Aluminum seems to work better in all aspects, and it’s got to be a cheaper material to start with.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
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    Lyman now has a 9mm HP in their Devastator line, large cavity 125gr .356.

  8. #28
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    4 cav brass molds are becoming my favorites.

    Once up to temp, they stay there. I like to take little breaks,go sit in the Sun,sip beer. Come back casting and pour perfect bullets again, right away. And brass won't overheat very easily either.

    Very relaxing.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by ozarkeod View Post
    Lyman now has a 9mm HP in their Devastator line, large cavity 125gr .356.
    $85.00 and only a single cavity from Lyman...they are low production .

    I would invest that in an NOE with extra pins to cast 2 different HP's and a pin for solid nose.
    Like having 3 different boolit moulds and get a 4 cavity to boot , in aluminum , for $133.00...that's $48.00 more but worth every penny . You can get gas check , plain base or 2 of each in the same mould . Beats a 1 cavity Lyman seven ways to Sunday !

    I still prefer aluminum because of the weight... a 4 cavity NOE aluminum is about all I can handle , they are much heavier than I thought they would be... I've been ordering 3 cavity moulds lately...getting older sucks .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    I have a NOE 45 cal mold that will produce both ho and flat nose.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    An RG2 (two-cav NOE HP mould) is a thing of beauty.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Forrest r's Avatar
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    Myself I like/use the Mihec 125gr hp's for my 9mm's. I have the 4-cavity brass mold and find it no heavier than any of the several steel 4-cavity molds I have. Anymore I doesn't matter if I use a 4/6/8-cavity mold, I'm only good for 2 runs of a 20# pot.

    Never found brass molds hard to pre-heat & I actually prefer them over al molds. When the brass molds gets hot it stays at a more even temperature longer than the al molds. I hate having to slow down when casting with al molds because they heat up quickly and it takes longer for the sprues to puddle. IMHO: the more even the heat of the mold is the more even the quality of the bullets are.

    The mihec's have fed in every 9mm I tried them in & I typically run them in the 1050fps to 1150fps range using +/- 9bhn range scrap. The mihec's in a 3.2" bbl'd 9mm with a 1050fps load.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    The same bullet has become my favorite plinking bullet for a 1911.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Not hand picked/cherry picked by any means. Nothing more then the test target used that day testing loads with the mihec 125gr er's/1911 combo. A 1150fps plinking load using those 125gr mihec hp's in a 1911, 10-shot group @ 50ft.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I'm sure there's other excellent hp designs out there for the 9mm. I bought that 4-cavity mihec mold years ago & it simply casts a pile of excellent quality bullets in a hurry that preform well enough that I've never bother to look around at anything else.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    And amazingly enough this little darlin' fell into my hands at the local pawn shop.



    With a #1 collet and #27 pilot, everything working and present...$5.

    So, now time for that Universal Hollow Pointer kit.
    Last edited by armoredman; 06-21-2019 at 12:58 AM.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blammer View Post
    I can heartily recommend this mould.

    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...roducts_id=345
    Get this one in a gas checked version , with the 3 different pins , 2 hollow point and one flat point .
    It's like having three different moulds and the gas check allows for hot loads with no lead and helps with seating soft boolits...the hard GC doesn't get sized smaller on seating .
    I got the 124 grain truncated cone design...it works wonderfully and I can size the boolits .358 and load them in 38 special and 357 magnum.... now that's a versatile mould !
    It may cost more than a Lee 2 cavity but it will be worth every penny.
    And this is from someone who hates to spend a dime... I spend it on a NOE mould like this .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Another consideration regarding price is that a quality mold will be worth quite a bit to sell used if that is desirable. You could even cast say 6000 bullets with it over a year and then sell it for probably 60% or more of its original cost. My impression is that all the quality molds are priced somewhat closely, and lee molds are the odd option being much cheaper. So if you’re cheap, buy a Lee. If you don’t want a lee, then take your pick of the quality stuff and it’s going to be MP or Noe most likely.

  16. #36
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I will admit my mp molds are the best i own. But i really like lee molds but no hollow point. I have at least one lee mold in almost every caliber i cast. 6.5 and 25 acp.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check