Inline FabricationRotoMetals2Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters Supply
RepackboxLee PrecisionWidenersTitan Reloading
Load Data
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Calibrating Beam Scales

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    9

    Calibrating Beam Scales

    Evening all, I recently acquired an older Redding hydraulicly dampened scale and i am in the process of calibrating it. Here's the question. When you zero the poise out and the scale is empty, and with absolutely no reguard for the zero mark at the pointer end, should the beam be as close to level as I can get it?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Hick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Winnemucca, NV
    Posts
    1,600
    It doesn't have to be perfectly level, as long as the pointer is located in a spot where you can read it. When you are weighing the charge, the pointer should be at the same place it was when you zeroed it. On my beam scale, I recheck the zero every time I use it-- before setting the charge weight I want.
    Hick: Iron sights!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    OKC , Oklahoma
    Posts
    3,384

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Hick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Winnemucca, NV
    Posts
    1,600
    Good picture. Notice the pointer is at the "0" mark. If for some reason your bench is off and you cannot get it at the zero mark, you can use a different mark--BUT, whatever mark you use when the pan is empty has to be the same as the mark you use when weighing a charge.
    Hick: Iron sights!

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    378
    Quote Originally Posted by Butterbean View Post
    Evening all, I recently acquired an older Redding hydraulicly dampened scale and i am in the process of calibrating it. Here's the question. When you zero the poise out and the scale is empty, and with absolutely no reguard for the zero mark at the pointer end, should the beam be as close to level as I can get it?
    It depends on the design of the scale to some extent. If you're resetting the scale from scratch, it might be a good idea to set the level adjusting screw to about the mid point, set all the poises to zero then tare the weight so the scale reads zero by either adjusting the weights in the weightbox under the pan or if using an Hornady/Pacific scale by adjusting the brass locknuts on the end of the beam.

    In theory best performance should be when the knife edge blades are at 90 degrees to the surface of the "V" block bearings and the beam level - unfortunately not always possible with the limited adjustment available with the level screw.

    This is a Hornady "M" type scale I've set up just so with the beam level at zero.




  6. #6
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    SE Louisiana
    Posts
    927
    I also zero the 5-0-5 beam scale at the beginning of each session. Check weights are used each time...

    Bayou52
    Bayou52
    NRA Life Member
    "Keep Calm and Reload"

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    9
    Thanks for the reply guys, i appreciate the info.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check