Lee Auto Breech Pro initial impressions

[ilcop22]

Good morning,

I recently purchased a new Lee Auto Breech Pro (ABLP) progressive reloading press. Since it's still newer to the game, I thought I'd post my initial impressions for anyone looking at one.

Ive been doing all of my loading on a single stage Lee breech lock press for 10-15 years (I can't keep track of the time). I decided to "upgrade" to a progressive press to save time on my auto and pistol loads.

I was initially going to purchase a Honady LNL press, but for 1/4 the cost and since I'm the slow and check my work type (and frugal), I opted for the ABLP.

A quick note about the press - it is a hand prime or Lee Auto Prime (manual priming) press. Since I hand prime off the press, this was a non issue for me. If you press prime, you will need to do it manually on this press.

The press is rock solid, despite it's aluminum and lower end cast metal build. Much of it is plastic (case retainers, case feed, case ejector, case eject ramp, among others). I added the Lee case feed, which works quite well with this press, despite it's plastic design. The ram is thick, smooth and sturdy and I get less play than my very used single stage. The roller handle is an added bonus, although mine came with a small gouge in the wood.

The press has a decent auto indexing system. I say decent because it's not without it's hiccups. Like most Lee products, it takes some finesse to get things to run smoothly. You can easily short stroke the auto index, but it's simple enough to reset the the shell plate by hand.

The breach lock system on the press is definitely cheaper than on the old single stage I have, as the aluminum cast top receiver doesn't have the same rock solid lock as my old one.

The newer Lee auto spline drive lock bushings it comes with are so far my least favorite part. They are much lighter aluminum and mine came with very cheap Philips locking screws. I cannot get them all tight enough to lock the die without stripping the head. YMMV but I will likely be contacting Lee for replacement screws. My old bushings work great. The spline drive bushings are much taller because of the locking ring built in, so you may need to remove existing locking rings if you have shorter dies. This means you'll have to get a set of spline drive bushings dedicated to each die set, or readjust dies with each caliber change.

Speaking of caliber change, it couldn't be easier. Ram to half point, remove auto indexing rod, case ejector, and unscrew shell plate with provided Allen wrench. Reverse to install. The hardest part is adjusting the optional case feed. Also, the auto indexing will not work on taller cases. For that, you can simply manually index by removing the auto indexing rod. I reload several cartridges, often in the same session, so the quick change is a huge bonus.

So far I have loaded 40 SW, .300 BLK, and 30-06 with this press. Auto indexing worked well even with the 300 BLK. For my 40 loads, I first set up the press as a case conditioning station with a size die and a mouth expander die. Once done, primed off press and then swapped in the powder and seating dies. You can setup this press as a case prep station, progressive loading press, or single stage in seconds.

I have a auto drum powder measure on backorder to add to the press at a later date, but the press comes bare bones with everthing you need except the shell plate.

All that said, if you are looking for a progressive press that won't break the bank, especially if you are already a Lee loader with many accessories, this is a good press. It's not a LNL and it's not a Dillon, but it's a small fraction of the price at $109 bucks for the base press. If you're like me and reloading is a passion that needn't be rushed, but you'd like to save your shoulder from too many pulls or double/triple your plinking round reload speed, I would recommend this press.

Brad

[kmw1954]

ilcop22, is this your first progressive press? Have you used other progressive presses?

I ask because of your statement of coming to this press from a single stage. Also because I have just been chatting with another that just purchased a upgraded model of the Lee Pro1000 and was asking him about his experience. Again he relayed that this was his first use of a progressive so he had nothing to compare it with. I was just generally interested in his thoughts.

I do have both the Pro1000 and the Pro4000 ABLP and use both regularly. The ABLP is mostly for loading 45acp. I wish 2 things, one that the ABLP would have used the all metal shell plate carrier like the Pro1000 and that it would have retained the Turret tool heads instead of the bushings.

[onelight]

Any thing I load on my ABLP gets primed on it 45 acp 40 s&w 9mm 38/357 and 380 probably at least 8000 at this point . You gave up on the the priming system to soon , it works great when you set your dies set correctly they control the position of the primer cup in relation to the feeder. It also takes a bit of time to get the feel for it.
Any one who primes on the LCT will have no trouble with the ABLP it is the same system.
You need a slimmer screwdriver to hit the screw square . I have both the aluminum and steel bushings and have seen no difference for my use. Hang in there you can learn the priming system you can feel the primers seat with it . It is one of the reasons I like the ABLP

[C.F.Plinker]

I got an ABLP a while ago and have started using it for small runs of pistol. I got the Safety Prime and a Auto Drum powder measure at the same time. I did not get either the case feeder or bullet feeder. I got the non-spline drive lock ring eliminator bushings for all of my dies and have not had any problems with them. It will be interesting to see if other users have the same experiences with the spline drive as you did.

Since I do not have either the case or bullet feeders I found it better if i positioned myself 30-45 degrees to the left of center. When I did this it was awkward to use the roller handle so I made a ball handle which worked much better for me. I tried putting the cases on the ram when it was raised and letting the slider block push it into position. This didn't work out as well as removing the slider block and just putting the case into the shell plate like when using a Dillon 550.

The Safety Prime initially hit the top of the primer arm and it was necessary to shim it up a little. Then it started flipping primers from time to time but a thinner shim got rid of that problem.

I put a riser under the Auto Drum powder measure and adjusted it per the instructions.Works like it should. The Auto Drum does not lend itself to throwing test charges because of the strong spring it it. When adjusting the measure I like to weigh 10 charges and use the average. OK put a case in the shell plate and raise the ram to activate the powder measure. That's one charge. Now lower it half way and raise it again to drop another charge. Do this three more times and put the 5 charges in the scale pan. Do it again and you have all 10 charges in the pan. No Problem. Except that you have just seen how to double charge a case. We'll come back to that in a minute.

Put a boolit on the shell in station 3 after looking to make sure that it has powder in it. One more operation of the handle seats the boolit and another crimps it.

Once the shell plate is loaded the sequence of operation is:
With the ram down slide a case into the shell plate with the right hand put a boolit in the case in station 3 with the left hand.
Use the right hand to operate the handle in order to raise the ram.
Hold the handle down with the right hand while the left hand operates the Safety Prime to dispense a primer. If you let the spring in the Auto Drum move the ram down and then use the handle to get it back up so you can operate the Safety Prime you have just double charged the case.
Raise the handle to lower the ram and seat the primer.
Look in the case in station 3 to make sure there is powder (just one charge C.F.) in it.

Repeat as necessary.

Does this replace my 550? No. Will I get rid of the 550? No. I will be using the ABLP for short runs of up to about 100 rounds because it is quicker to set up than the 550. This time savings is somewhat offset by the slower operating speed.

If you are coming from another press to the ABLP you may want to consider just sizing and priming several hundred rounds. Then take the sizing/decapping die out and charge, seat, crimp the rounds you prepped. This will give you the feel for all of the operations before you put them all together. There is a lot going on all at once with any progressive press so start with single operations then combine them until you are operating in the full progressive mode.

[kmw1954]

If you are coming from another press to the ABLP you may want to consider just sizing and priming several hundred rounds. Then take the sizing/decapping die out and charge, seat, crimp the rounds you prepped. This will give you the feel for all of the operations before you put them all together. There is a lot going on all at once with any progressive press so start with single operations then combine them until you are operating in the full progressive mode.

If you are going to do that then one might just as well opt for a used Pro1000 and just use the Powder die, seat die and crimp die and eliminate the empty hole..

[onelight]

If you adjust your sizing die you are adjusting where the ram stops upward movement so you can set that die where the safety prime hits the primer cup at the perfect spot to receive the primer and you will not have to mod or shim anything but if shimming worked for you that is great to.
Set the sizing die first to get the priming right the only other die that touches the shell holder if you use one is the carbide factory crimp die so it needs to be set to touch the shell holder at the same time as the sizing die that is adjusted for optimum primer feed.

This was not so much for you C.F.Plinker you have yours working but for anyone having a problem with the safety prime feeder.

[ilcop22]

Any thing I load on my ABLP gets primed on it 45 acp 40 s&w 9mm 38/357 and 380 probably at least 8000 at this point . You gave up on the the priming system to soon , it works great when you set your dies set correctly they control the position of the primer cup in relation to the feeder. It also takes a bit of time to get the feel for it.
Any one who primes on the LCT will have no trouble with the ABLP it is the same system.
You need a slimmer screwdriver to hit the screw square . I have both the aluminum and steel bushings and have seen no difference for my use. Hang in there you can learn the priming system you can feel the primers seat with it . It is one of the reasons I like the ABLP

I actually prefer to hand prime; always have. I made mention of it for those who don't want to press prime or maybe didn't know it doesn't have an auto primer feed. As far as my bushings, they're hit or miss. One can tighten while one can't get tight at all without head stripping with the correct size screwdriver.

[sghart3578]

I liked mine so much I bought a second one.


Steve in N CA

[megasupermagnum]

I actually prefer to hand prime; always have. I made mention of it for those who don't want to press prime or maybe didn't know it doesn't have an auto primer feed. As far as my bushings, they're hit or miss. One can tighten while one can't get tight at all without head stripping with the correct size screwdriver.

I do too. One large benefit I've found is that it is less to worry about when working with full prepped brass. All that I have to worry about when loading is that there is powder in the case, not double charged, and stick a bullet on it. If you do the whole shebang at once, meaning sizing, priming, expand/powder, seat bullet, crimp. That is a lot to keep track of mentally. I don't like keeping one eye on the powder, another on the primers, and a third on the cases, all while seating bullets. I like my Pro1000. I took it out of the box, and started loading ammo. Never have had a problem with it.