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Thread: stuck case removal

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    swheeler's Avatar
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    My preferred method is cast the chamber in cerrosafe and knock casting with separated brass out, I have done it with a dental pick dug into the side of the soft brass casing, THIS IS INSIDE THE CASING, then pull back if it comes loose it just needs to move a fraction of inch. Not much of a shoulder on that 375 to headspace off of, original purpose of the H&H belt was supply a good stop to set headspace, if you handload you can seat the bullet out long to engage rifling, then neck size and make your brass last many firings without any separations, your Ruger No1 is perfect for this set up. Seating the bullet this way may increase pressure some, so start low and work up is always good advice and never exceeding published maximum data is good advice too!
    Hell, I was there!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Hollowpoint, thanks for sharing your experience. I like the tap idea, I'll remember that one as well.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I used the brazing rod chisel on a Smelly .303 and a cleaning brush on a Remington 788 22-250. It's only happened to me twice in all this time and in both cases I knew the brass was fixing to go- the experience taught me to discard suspect brass.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Before you get too involved try using a can of compressed air turn it upside down and blow the liquid into the brass until it freezes it. Sometimes they will almost fall out. If you try this make sure you oil the areas that the liquid touches as it will rust easily.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by winelover View Post
    Soak with Kroil, then use a tight fitting bore brush. Worked for me.

    Winelover
    If you don't have Kroil mix a little conventional ATF (General Motors ) and Acetone , 50-50 , this makes a super penetrating oil , soak it a few hours or over night then go the oversize bronze bore brush method . Try to find a real stiff brush ...they work best .
    Good Luck,
    Gary
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    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    It must be really stuck.
    Normally they come out without to much work.
    Tight patch/brush through the muzzle.
    Chamber brush got all that got stuck for me.
    How much of the shell is still in there????

    I'd go with the cerrosafe as it sounds like it would give the least chance of damage.
    If you don't have cerrosafe, soft lead might work.

    Not a big fan of stuck case removers.
    I've had to remove a stuck case remover for a rifle once.
    After a few people tried to do it.
    It was a pain.
    Once I got it out, I could see the gouge where the stuck case remover had dug into the barrel.
    Not good.
    Was an old rifle.
    Friend was just happy to have it out.
    Shot fine after.

    I've had friends use a tap to do it.
    You'd need a big tap for that size case.
    Maybe see if a friend has one???
    I have some pipe taps that might fit.
    Pipe taps are tapered, so wouldn't have to be the exact size.
    PM if you'd like me to check. I think I have a empty case for sizing.
    Screw the tap in until it just grips.
    Don't jam it in tight, it will only push the shell tighter to the chamber.
    Grab the tap with a vise grip at a 90' angle.
    Tap the vise grip with something.
    Should come right out.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy andrew375's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies folks, its given me plenty to of options to go with. I have actually tried easyouts but the diameter I need is between diameters of the set! The problem is that the shank diameter of the one that "might" fit is too big to clear the bottom of the loading cut out on the receiver, that the bit directly behind the breech block.

    I've used the taper tap method a long time ago to remove a 7.92x33 case that absolutely wouldn't budge, but as soon as the tap began to engage the case started rotating with the tap. On monday I'll see if I grab some brazing rod from work.

    On a side note. A friend of mine ripped the rim off a .303 case in his 1916 SMLE. He bought a proper case extractor but managed to break the bolt handle off in the process of getting it out! Just so you know, the guy is a manager at Rolls Royce aero engines and is responsible for examining and reconditioning of used fan blades. So next time you are flying, if the engines have RR on the cowling then bear in mind some of the fan blades may have been through the hands of a man who managed to do what a century in the hands of squaddies had failed to do.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew375 View Post
    Thanks for all the replies folks, its given me plenty to of options to go with. I have actually tried easyouts but the diameter I need is between diameters of the set! The problem is that the shank diameter of the one that "might" fit is too big to clear the bottom of the loading cut out on the receiver, that the bit directly behind the breech block.

    I've used the taper tap method a long time ago to remove a 7.92x33 case that absolutely wouldn't budge, but as soon as the tap began to engage the case started rotating with the tap. On monday I'll see if I grab some brazing rod from work.

    On a side note. A friend of mine ripped the rim off a .303 case in his 1916 SMLE. He bought a proper case extractor but managed to break the bolt handle off in the process of getting it out! Just so you know, the guy is a manager at Rolls Royce aero engines and is responsible for examining and reconditioning of used fan blades. So next time you are flying, if the engines have RR on the cowling then bear in mind some of the fan blades may have been through the hands of a man who managed to do what a century in the hands of squaddies had failed to do.
    It's hard for me to imagine a broken case being wedged into a slightly tapered chamber that tightly. Generally it's the taper of the broken case that makes things a bit more complicated but once you get a good bite into the walls of the broken brass it's that same taper that makes it extract so easily.

    I thought about it the other day and I wondered; if I had a similar situation with a Ruger No.1 might I be able to just insert a sacrificial 375 case with a bit of super glue or gorilla glue on the shoulder of the shell and let it sit till the glue cured then just pull it out along with the stuck case? If I'm not mistaken the 375 case has just enough taper to allow another of the same size or similar cartridge to slip into the inside of the broken case if the case head of the broken shell is out of the way. Just thinking out loud. Brass on Brass offers no chance of damage to the chamber.

    HollowPoint

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by HollowPoint View Post

    I thought about it the other day and I wondered; if I had a similar situation with a Ruger No.1 might I be able to just insert a sacrificial 375 case with a bit of super glue or gorilla glue on the shoulder of the shell and let it sit till the glue cured then just pull it out along with the stuck case? If I'm not mistaken the 375 case has just enough taper to allow another of the same size or similar cartridge to slip into the inside of the broken case if the case head of the broken shell is out of the way. Just thinking out loud. Brass on Brass offers no chance of damage to the chamber.

    HollowPoint
    If that would work, that sounds like a good idea to try.
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  10. #30
    Boolit Master



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    Dry ice in chamber, then tight fitting brush to quickly retract the shrunken case
    Mike
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  11. #31
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    Our range expedient method when shooting BPCR, is to get some paper towels. Start making small pieces, just a bit bigger than a cleaning patch, and tamp it into the case with a close to bore size ram rod, and continue adding until the paper is an inch or so past the case mouth. The paper needs to be tamped down TIGHT! Then open the action, and give the ramrod a firm whack. Usually they will come out. I've also done it with bottleneck cartridges, but it is harder to compact the paper sufficiently.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  12. #32
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oily View Post
    Before you get too involved try using a can of compressed air turn it upside down and blow the liquid into the brass until it freezes it. Sometimes they will almost fall out. If you try this make sure you oil the areas that the liquid touches as it will rust easily.
    Yep, I agree and was going to suggest this method but you beat me to it.

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy andrew375's Avatar
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    success!

    Tried various suggestions from here and other forums. pushed up and drag back shotgun brush, nothing. Dental pick, could get a grip not deep enough to overcome the pull I was applying. Made a pry by filing a chisel edge on a piece of brazing rod, couldn't get a purchase due to the thinness of the case wall. Several people suggested inserting a cut down case with epoxy on it, but the case taper was too shallow to allow that. But that is where I got the solution! I realised that a .223 case is around .378" dia. and would be a good fit in the neck of the .375 case. After cleaning and degreasing everything I roughened up the outside of a .223 case and applied a coat in of epoxy adhesive and pushed it up the chamber until it stopped. Left it for a couple of days to harden then cleaning rod down and a smack with a mallet and out it came. WHEW!!

    Examination showed that the case had actually been dragged forward into the throat and the case mouth mashed into the rifling lead. This was why it was so had to shift. Now to go through all my brass. I keep all my brass segregated by age and what has precipitated these case head separations is that I had f/l length resized this particular lot, normally I neck size with a Lee collet die.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Glad you got it out, without damage it sounds like. Nice to have a frustrating situation finally resolved.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check