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Thread: stuck case removal

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy andrew375's Avatar
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    stuck case removal

    I've had a casehead separation in my .375 H&H, rifle is a ruger 1. I've had separations before but in those instances the case bodies came out with a prod from a screwdriver. This time the case won't budge. So far I've tried a sciber to try and hook it out and an oversized cleaning brush. My next step is to push in another case with some hot glue on the outside and see if that grabs, if that fails I will try a taper tap of a size that will cut into the brass but not the chamber. But before that does anyone have any other suggestions? To be clear the head is completely off, separated at the front of the web.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master RKJ's Avatar
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    Could you push a cast bullet down the barrel from the muzzle? I'd think that would push the stick case out.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I use a spring hook, extended through the rear of the case, to pull the shell out to the rear.

    https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnp...yABEgKCmvD_BwE

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Try putting it in the freezer over night then try the pick again. The brass will contract more than the steel and should loosen by freezing.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Cram an old shotgun brass bore brush into the case as far as possible then knock the case out with a cleaning rod from the front

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Sticking another case in it is a good idea. The way I'd tackle it is as follows. Cut off the neck and shoulder so you can get a closer fit and use a dab of JB weld instead of hot glue. Clean the inside of the stuck case, and make sure you don't use enough JB weld that it would squish out into the barrel or chamber.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    The old timer method is as Ragnarok suggests, Jam a larger cleaning brush into the case from the back end. and push the case out with a rod inserted from the muzzle. There is almost no chance of doing damage to the bore or chamber this way.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    Get some cerrosafe or similar and make a chamber/throat casting then knock out the casting. The broken case will come with it and it will not damage your chamber. Rotometals has a great deal on their "Chamber Alloy (158-190)" a pound for $10 which is more than enough and can be reused many times. It's basically like pouring hot McDonalds coffee temp alloy so you don't have to get very fancy with your setup. I use plumbers putty to block off the lugs if needed and a patched jig to stop the alloy from going in the barrel too far. You don't want to let the cerrosafe cast its self around any metal on the cleaning rod jag like a loop or jag type, so I'll wad a patch up into a ball and cover it with another patch.
    350 Legend, imitation is the highest form of flattery. Aww, Thanks Winchester!

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used a bigger cleaning brush, wood dowel glued into the case, the old 375 case sized down to fit night work but how much engagement may be questionable. If you have a syringe and kroil put a drop at the case chamber junction and let work sitting muzzle down for awhile. Then give it a try. Super glue does good to glue the dowel or case in place. Give it some time to set up also. an hour or so. I would save the tap as last try. Fitting a dowel for the most engagement before gluing it in gets a really good bond

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Sulfer= liquid sulfer will bond to the brass and you can tap it out. Available at any drug story. Get some foil. Put a small ball in the case mouth to plug. Make a spoon of foil and pour in chamber. Let it harden. Tap out with cleaning rod. This may not work if you use moly lubes. The sulfer will "stick" to the steel, but will wipe off with pressure.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Before I rebarreled it I had an Enfield No.4 MkI that would do this more often than I'd expected. I tried those expanding store bought shell removers but they didn't work. I tried picking it out with a pick similar to the one shown in the previous pic but I couldn't get it to catch the lip on the mouth of the broken shell in the chamber.

    Out of frustration I attempted to pick it out with a small straight-slot screw driver by wedging it between the brass case and the chamber wall with no luck. I then got the bright idea to spot weld and old threading tap to a short length of steel rod that was long enough to reach the brass in the chamber from the back end of the reciever. I carefully screwed it into the broken shell just enough for the teeth on the threading-tap to bite into the inside wall of that stuck case. You wouldn't believe how easily it came out. I've carried that home made broken shell remover in my range bag ever since.

    Unfortunately for me, I discovered after I removed that broken case that my earlier attempt to remove it with that small screw driver had ruined the inside surface of the chamber. I ended up rebarreling it to save the rifle.

    On a Ruger No.1 you don't have to reach all the way through a reciever to reach the broken case. This means you can find a threading tap of the correct diameter, carefully stick it into the open end of the broken case head and lightly screw it in till it bites then pull that case out. It doesn't have to be twisted into the broken case very hard for it to have a secure enough grip to extract the broken case. The finer the threads on the tap the better but the one I'm using has a thread pitch of about twenty threads per inch.

    The deeper the threads on the tap, the more finesse you have to use when screwing it in. The shallower the threads on the tap the more aggressive you can screw in the tap without the fear of the threads cutting through the wall of the broken brass case and scoring the walls of the chamber.

    HollowPoint

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    While I have read some pretty good suggestions, I think I would likely try using an "Easy Out" to try to pull it out if one of the other easy methods did not work well.

    Should bite into the brass right easy, and then just draw out the case. Might want to try spraying some liquid wrench or penetrating oil ( even , "Ed's Red".) down the barrel first to maybe "slick" things up a bit before ya try.

    I'd likely start with he square ones, not the helical ones. But the helical ones might do the job.

    An "Easy Out" for those who may not be familiar with them is a tool used to remove bolts when the head has either rounded off, or the head broke off.
    You have to drill a hole into the bolt & insert the "easy Out" & then you can turn out the broken or ruined bolt.

    They look like this:
    Square:


    Helical:


    G'Luck! whatever method ya choose to use!
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Indian Joe, I think it's a pretty good idea myself, I'll file that away in the ol memory banks. Thanks for posting.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew375 View Post
    I've had a casehead separation in my .375 H&H, rifle is a ruger 1. I've had separations before but........
    Sounds like your brass is worn out and needs to be replaced.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Soak with Kroil, then use a tight fitting bore brush. Worked for me.

    Winelover

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    If you really want to ruin the chamber on your ruger ?.....continue poking hardened steel tools in there - the scriber is not a good idea - easy out is a bad idea - a tapered tap is a really really really really bad idea
    Heres a good idea that actually works
    take a piece of 1/8th BRASS brazing rod, hammer the end flat and make a pointed chisel end on it, from the breech end of the rifle drive the pointed end in under the stuck case between case and chamber wall - it might take a couple goes to get it under - then drive the body of the punch in till its full depth to the cartridge shoulder - this puts a crease the full length of the case - it will likely fall out - if not it wont take much to push it out with a brush on a rod or such

    Again dont put hardened steel tools up into the chamber - even if you quote a hundred "gunsmiths" that do this successfully its still a dumb idea -----one small slip and the chamber is ruined!!!

    I dont expect you to try my brass chisel method ----its too simple -- it works -- its safe -- you cant damage your gun -- its posted by an Aussie -- I dont have expert/guru status -- been posted several times before and never got a reply --
    Well, you ARE getting a reply now & I am going to be "civil & polite" to you, even though I would rather say what I want to say in a different manner. A manner that would be against the rules of this forum, so I will defer to those rules & not proceed the way I would like to say things here to you, and done regardless if you are "Aussie", or not...

    I'm gonna suggest something to you...

    If you are going to make a suggestion, try not to go out of your way to "poke others in the eye" when doing so.

    You could have simply posted your method & left criticizing others who were offering suggestions just to try to help someone else, completelyout of your post, but no, you had to go about it in an abrasive manner...

    Even if you wanted to re-enforce that using some of the other methods may be a poor idea, your post would have easily said,

    "I would not suggest using a hardened steel object to remove the brass case from your firearms chamber due to the possibility of damaging the firearm by being "heavy handed",

    or something along those lines, & then offering your suggestion for another way to accomplish the goal.

    Your trying to make your suggestion look better, (while it is a good suggestion on its' own merit & would not need help), by using others as "crutch", then and at the same time criticizing & coming off as derogatory to at least 3 folks, to try to make your suggestion is not a good practice & certainly won't endear you or anything you say here to the ones who read your post as I just did.
    As well as possibly others who notice your way of stepping on others who were only trying to be helpful, in order to make your suggestion look better.

    Perhaps that type of method & manner of posting is why you felt your last sentence in the post quoted above was necessary. ( Geeez, I am crying alligator tears of woe for your poor lack of responses to your posts...)

    Perhaps if you were a bit more informative without derogatorily using others to promote your idea would motivate others to pay more attention to your posts.

    Now, I have said the above in a polite & civil manner, which is completely against my nature, and regardless of your being "Aussie". I am not prejudiced in my dealing with folks on most occasions, unless they deserve treatment as such, for their own behavior(s).

    I dislike UN-necessary ill-mannered, rude & boorish behavior equally, regardless of race, color , creed, or nationality, etc..

    ( I also have no qualms about giving an "eye for an eye" and responding in a like manner to others who use such manners when necessary either. Unfortunately though, I am not allowed to do that here in this forum.)

    I hope you learn something from "this response" to your post.

    ( and I feel so excited I got to be "your first" response to one of your posts in over a year... Don't ya just "feel the love"?)

    If not, I wasted my time & I can assure ya you won't be getting any more replies from me, in a complimentary manner, should you continue the pattern your last post demonstrated to everyone...

    Do as ya like, though, as I am sure ya will...
    2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    ~~ WWG1WGA ~~

    Restore the Republic!!!

    For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.

    President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ

    Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have had good results fitting a wood dowel to the inside of the case then gluing it in to the case then you push on it ( tapping set up vibrations and the shock may break the glues bond). I fit the dowel with a file and sand paper so that it has 1" or more of engagement then seal the wood with super glue let soak in and cure slightly sand with coarse paper. Clean it and the case. Glue in place and let cure for1 hour or more. then push out with cleaning rod from muzzle. Depending on where break is 1 1/2"-1 3/4" length of engagement should be doable. This gives a lot of surface for bond in the case. Use the glue sparingly as you don't want it running out the front or squeezing out the back gluing the case in tighter.
    I have case extractors extractors for 223 308 30-06 that work very good. one for 375 caliber could be turned up pretty easily from brass aluminum May be a little soft or leaded steel. its a simple set up with a sliding expanding collet and a shaft with tapered end to expand collet when seated. Hold the outer ring and push on end with rod collet expands and the square edge grips on case mouth removing the broken case.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Wow; I was afraid this would happen. My DIY broken shell extractor and my earlier suggestion seems to have caused things to go south rather quickly. Sorry for the un-needed stress and mis-direction. I've never had a problem with my method, nor have any of the guys at the shooting range who have borrowed my home made shell extractor.

    Granted, there is potential for damage to one's chamber but this is for those who deliberately don't exercise some level of being careful when using this extracting method. Over and Out.

    HollowPoint

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Moleman- View Post
    Get some cerrosafe or similar and make a chamber/throat casting then knock out the casting. The broken case will come with it and it will not damage your chamber. Rotometals has a great deal on their "Chamber Alloy (158-190)" a pound for $10 which is more than enough and can be reused many times. It's basically like pouring hot McDonalds coffee temp alloy so you don't have to get very fancy with your setup. I use plumbers putty to block off the lugs if needed and a patched jig to stop the alloy from going in the barrel too far. You don't want to let the cerrosafe cast its self around any metal on the cleaning rod jag like a loop or jag type, so I'll wad a patch up into a ball and cover it with another patch.
    ^^^^^^the best way to do it w/o potentially damaging the chamber^^^^^^^^^
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    JBinMN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    If you wanna sound off on me ....pm me ...I promise I'll read it
    If this "discussion", gets some attention and stops one bloke from scoring the chamber of a good rifle with a steel tool then its done its job - you might have the steady enough hand and keen enough eye - to use an easy out or a tap and do no damage (I hope so) - but a lot of blokes out there dont. Its too late after that steel tool goes astray.
    Quote Originally Posted by JBinMN View Post
    If not, I wasted my time & I can assure ya you won't be getting any more replies from me, in a complimentary manner, should you continue the pattern your last post demonstrated to everyone...

    Do as ya like, though, as I am sure ya will...
    Yes. I wasted my time on replying to ya. You have made that quite apparent now & I am no going to waste any more time on ya now.

    Perhaps ya now understand why some folks don't respond to your posts here.

    I know & understand why, anyway... It seems quite obvious to me.

    So, this post is enough for me, there will be no more.

    Buzz off.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    G'Luck to the OP! whichever method you find works best for ya!
    2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    ~~ WWG1WGA ~~

    Restore the Republic!!!

    For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.

    President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ

    Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check