Rifling a 10 bore SXS

[MotelAlpha]

Id like to improve the 50 yard groups of my 10 bore sxs. I have been working on many loads for several years and can keep within 8 inches at 50 yards. I believe I can improve that with some rifling. My old english paradox gun (Hollis 12 ga)has very lite rifling and shoots under 3 inches at 50 yards, so me thinks its doable.Anyone know who I might contact to inquire about rifling my barrels?

[kens]

I know a gunsmith that worked up loads for his SxS 10ga.
He used round ball sized to squeeze a bit going down the barrel, such that there was a flat equator or belt on the ball.
He claims clay pidgeons at 50 yards was an absolute every time.
Maybe this helps ??

[MotelAlpha]

I have tried them as well with some success, but nothing like my Hollis which has very very l lite rifle...Hollis called it "invisible Rifling".

[Kev18]

Might want to look on the Parker forum. Alot of people there specialize in only shotguns... They always help if I need something

http://parkerguns.org/forums/

[megasupermagnum]

A smooth bore is more than capable of 3" groups at 50 yards. The only problem is the lack of slug choices in 10 gauge. 8" at 50 is pretty bad though. Assuming those are reloads, figure out what's going wrong there, plenty of info on this sight. As for upgrades to the gun, even a simple set of rifle sights will drastically improve your accuracy. I've personally seen a bead sight shotgun shooting 5" at 50 yards, go right to 3" at 50 yards, just with sights that clamp onto a vent rib.

[longbow]

Not sure you will find anyone to rifle 10 ga. barrels but do look.

I wanted to get custom rifled choke tubes with slow twist like 1:72" for round ball and "square" slugs. Couldn't find anyone. I even got hold of Pacific Rifle Company who made 12 ga. under hammer muzzleloading rifles and they didn't want to supply me with a piece of barrel.

In the end I made my own rifling machine for choke tubes. While I managed to nicely rifle a piece of 3/4" pipe, I failed on a stainless steel choke tube. The cutter took nice shavings off the carbon steel pipe but not so much with the stainless. I bought a blank choke tube then bored it for rifling. I tried the same multi edged cutter as for the pipe but no go so I then ground a single point cutter which cut too well! It hung up and caused some shifting so out of time choke tube. It may be salvageable but I haven't gotten back to it yet.

Anyway, that doesn't help you much. Another thing to think about is regulation. It is extremely unlikely that you will get the two barrels of a side by to group together well. That's why double rifles cost so much. It takes a lot of tinkering to get the two barrels to shoot to same point of aim at a certain distance. It is also why Kodiak rifles and the CVA double rifles use a rear sight on each barrel.

Now, on leaving the gun smoothbore... no personal experience here but I have read that by filing the muzzles of a smoothbore you can control the launch at the muzzle so correct some for unregulated barrels. A poor man's method of regulation.

As msm says "A smooth bore is more than capable of 3" groups at 50 yards." 3" might be a bit optimistic, at least for some guns, but certainly 4" to 5" should be very doable... for single barrel. Each barrel might do that but they will likely be grouping in different places. You might get lucky and you might not. If you are lucky then put rifle sights on it and you are done! If you are not lucky then try filing the muzzles. The idea is to bleed a bit of gas so tipping the slug a bit as it leaves the muzzle.

Longbow