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Thread: Just a decapper/capper tong tool?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just a decapper/capper tong tool?

    Since the old Red Jet/Sampson Machine Works tong tools used with aluminum cases still seem to be Unobtanium, any suggestions on a substitute? Without spending buck$$ on genuine Lyman 310s?

    I'm really not in the mood to try modifying a big pair of pliers, but...

  2. #2
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    I guess I should use this "smiley" to indicate that I'm waiting to see what develops with this thread. I'm not familiar with the Red Jet/Sampson Machine Works tong tools, and I'm wondering what about the aluminum cases? Are you reloading the CCI Blazer aluminum cases?
    Lyman tools aren't that hard to come by, and I'm pretty certain that the older versions came with a decapping pin, now days seldom found to still be with the tool as the part is separate and easily lost. I'm not a factory-level reloader like some of the folks on this forum, seldom reloading more than 200 of anything at a time, but tinkering with over 30 cartridges. Sometimes, when reloading just a few, a box or less, I've found it convenient to knock out the old primers with one of the old Lee Loader pin punches and donut-type bases, and to re-prime using the Lyman 310 tool. The punches are still available from Lee as are the bases, and the Lyman handles can be found here and there, mostly on e-bay. There was a generation of handle that had the priming nub built in, and although many of the tools were dedicated to a specific cartridge, if the case will fit through the hole in the other handle it can be primed whether or not the handles were designed for that specific cartridge. Later they invented the "priming chamber" and some of them can be used for several cartridges as long as the rim is the same size. If you don't want to look for and pay for one of these old handles, then I'm kind of at a loss as to what you could use.......... you might be able to deprime with a sharp nail and a 2x4, but I don't know how you can safely get the new primers seated. And, I'm still wondering about the aluminum cases. Maybe a little more information.....?

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Im not familiar with the tool you mention in original post. I have made several decappers from hardware store materials with good results though. If all you want to do is decap berdan cases then there are several available. The pope style with 2 levers new one use a standard shell holder and also re prime. I believe distant thunder makes a simple little block style, and I think Frankfurt arsenal has one.

    The last I made were from copper tubing and fittings. It feels good in the and and catches primers 100%. It is some time to make cutting fitting and soldering parts together. But when done and polished it works well and feels good in the hand.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Grump, I don't think we understand the problem you are facing... at least I know I don't! Which aluminum cases are you talking about, the ones from CCI Blazers that are advertised as not intended to be reloaded or something else? If the former, they use a proprietary type of Berdan primer that may not be available for reloading use. IIRC, those cases have 3 tiny flash holes arranged around the center, so any normal primer punch that would be available for a 310 tool would be worthless on them.

    If you have some other type of aluminum case in mind please forgive my ignorance and by all means share the particulars about it... this will surely be a new case for all of us.

    Regards,
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  5. #5
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    Um, the 1960s-vintage purpose-built cases for wax bullets. Bullseye pistol shooters used them for indoor at home practice. The cases came with the flash holes already enlarged to avoid primer back-out in revolvers.

    Want to use the same type of tool to reprime the Speer plastic cases which are still sold at about the same price as loaded metallic case ammo (!). Stuck one of those in the Dillon last year and rather enthusiastically disintegrated the plastic rim when I did my usual primer seating ram-jam. Oops! A different tool will keep THAT habit from resurfacing, I hope.

    Here is the aluminum tool I seek but have seen for sale only a few weeks after "SOLD!!!" a few times over the past 6 years:


    Savvy now?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CCI Tool.jpg  

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Best I can do.
    Or maybe one of these.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by barrabruce; 05-15-2019 at 04:08 AM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
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    RIGHT!!! Now that I know what you want, maybe I can help. To load plastic cases or brass with expanded flash holes, you may be able to just use a Lee primer punch and base and just push out the spent primer, although a hammer might be necessary.

    Many of the Lyman 310 tools came with a “universal “ decapping die... should take care of your needs if you don’t want to “whack-a-mole” with punch and base. Handles and odd dies are actually pretty cheap at gun shows and on auction sites. As for RE-priming, the Lyman wax bullet kit came with the one of neatest tools I’ve seen for that job. It used the then-standard J-type shell holders. Another priming tool I like is the original aluminum bodied priming tool from Lee. It used proprietary screw-in shell holders including one dedicated to the plastic 38 Spl cases available back then. Of course you could also use a 310 tool with the proper priming chamber.

    If I wanted one tool to do both steps, I’d hunt up one of the modern copies of the old Pope “re- and de-“ popular among the Schuetzen crowd. I’m on my back-up iPad now, but if you want pix of this look on the Interweb for Pope priming tool. If you can’t find an image post back and I’ll shoot pix of one of mine.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  9. #9
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    What caliber cases are you wanting to prime?

  10. #10
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    Lee Hand Press , Universal Decapping Die , the hand press comes with a little Lee Ram Prime tool, use it with the hand press to prime the cases ? Maybe not fancy smancy tools but would get the job done with a modest outlay of cash.
    I find the Hand Press very useful ...so useful I bought a second and find the Ram Prime a good way to prime cases .
    Certified Cajun
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    I've got (somewhere) a box of the old plastic cases, .44 cal., for shooting wax bullets. The way I de-primed them was to utilize the aforementioned Lee pin punch de-priming tool and base. To re-prime them I simply set the primer on a flat table surface, put the case on top of the primer, and pressed down on the inside of the case with a wooden dowel.

  12. #12
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    I made a punch and base setup for decapping 577/450 Martini cartridge cases.All brass. Basically the decapper rod is nothing more than a 1/2" brass ros with a head machinged on top,used an old decapping pin from a RCBS die and the rod is tapered to fit inside the case and the decapping pin is held in place with a set screw. Don't like to decap in a press as all the firing residue gums up the press. Have made them for some other calibers as well. Used my 40 year old 6" craftsman metal working lathe. Frank

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrassMagnet View Post
    What caliber cases are you wanting to prime?
    What caliber cases are you wanting to prime?

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I just saw one of these on fleaBay, but it had been so long since I had seen this thread I forgot about it.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check