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Thread: Tools for Prep Work on cases.

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy SharuLady's Avatar
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    TY for your reply ioon, it is quite helpful to get these opinions.

    SharuLady

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy SharuLady's Avatar
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    Ty for your reply jeepvet,

    I will certainly look into Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer. I also like to get the entire primer pocket shiny prior to reloading. Well, I actually like for the entire case inside & out to be shiny & clean.

    To get them this way I use the F.A.R.T. with pins

    SharuLady
    Last edited by SharuLady; 05-14-2019 at 01:46 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy SharuLady's Avatar
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    To one & all I extend my thanks. If I failed to reply to anyone that replied to my post I apologize sincerely.
    I have done a cut and past to a file with all the pertinent info so I have it handy when I start my search for the new tools.

    SharuLady

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy jeepvet's Avatar
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    The other thing that is so nice about the Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer is that it cuts all of your primer pockets to the correct depth for the correct size primer. This makes priming the brass much easier and it is much easier to tell when there is a problem as you apply pressure to whatever you are using to seat the primers.
    "Nothing is more uncommon than common sense." Benjamin Franklin

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy SharuLady's Avatar
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    HI, Well I got the parts needed from Lyman Press Express Prep.

    Case Prep Express Replacement Parts

    parts - Small Primer Pocket Uniformer $2.21 x's 2 $4.42
    Case Prep Express Replacement Parts
    parts - Uniformer Assbly LG $2.21 x's 2 $4.42
    Case Prep Express Replacement Parts
    parts - Small Primer Pocket Reamer $2.21 x's 1 $2.21
    Case Prep Express Replacement Parts
    parts - Large Primer Pocket Reamer $2.21 x's 1 $2.21
    Case Prep Express Replacement Parts
    parts - Small Primer Pocket Cleaner $2.21 x's 2 $4.42
    Case Prep Express Replacement Parts
    parts - Large Primer Pocket Cleaner $2.21 x's 2 $4.42

    Subtotal $22.10
    Shipping & Handling (Standard Shipping - Table Rate) - $3.00
    Grand Total Excl. Tax $25.10
    Tax - $0.00
    Grand Total Incl. Tax $25.10

    The order will be here Sat.

    I also looked at other company's Swager's, While they all had very nice equipment, some required mounting on a press.

    Of all of them I liked the Dillon 600 the best for my needs & purposes. This would work best for me & my setup. I don't have multiple Presses to utilize to find it useful for me. With the Dillon 600 I can mount this to board & clamp it down.

    I haven't purchased it as yet, since the only rifle brass I have is for 2 30-30's and that brass does not have the military crimps. Also any new brass for them will be Starline Brass. But, the Dillon 600 Swager would be good to uniform the primer pockets. Also it could be used as well on all the different pistol brass.

    Once again I appreciate all the replies & suggestions.

    SharuLady

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

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    One of the issues with primer pocket uniformers is they have no real flute just the cutter reliefs and when actually cutting they fill with chips and then cant cut ( chip bind). I started using rcs rushes for cleaning since the primer residue is abrasive and hard on the uniformers edge. Look for carbide tools they generally have a longer life. I use an old Sinclair adjustable set of uniformers in an electric motor at 3000 rpm and have done many thousands of cases and they still cut good and clean. I use a electric motor with the shaft threaded for a 1/2" drill chuck for most case prep work. The RPMs are closer to what carbide should be running and they help to get ships out when changing cases.
    In the flash hole deburring tools a slight change in tool geometry can really help. Most are a #1 center drill that's a universal grind for steel aluminum brass and plastics. A light stoning on the edge and lightening of the relief angle improves finish and stops grabbing when starting the cut. Again these can chip bind and stop cutting.
    Brass is fairly easy cutting and self lubricating. A small drop of cutting lubricant on the tools helps a lot. Beeswax, ivory soap, mist bullet lubes, black oil ( messier at higher rpms) all will lubricate the cutter and the cutting edge helping slow chip bind and improve finish

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Sinclair is about a one stop shopping center for just about every shooting discipline you can find. I have their bench rest primer seater, tools for cleaning and uniforming primer pockets,uniforming flash holes (you would be surprised at the amoung of brass shavings from doing the flasholes. Couple chamfering case necks and one special reamer setup for the chamfer that was originally for VLD bullets but works great for cast bullets. And yes I have the little brushes that goes into a forster case trimmer to scrub the primer pockets as well as the reamers for doing PP's using the foster hand cranked tool. And still have some old lyman primerpocket reamers as well as the case neck chamfer. Lee I use their case trimmer and lock stud for trimming cases. Works great in a small hand held battery operated drill. Regardless which brand you go with most of the tools work great for their intended purpose. Frank

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Look for carbide tools they generally have a longer life.
    This one's carbide, but (finally) needs sharpening. Anybody know where to get that done, or a good way to do it myself?
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    It's a double ended tool, one end for large primers, the other end for small primers, both sides adjustable for depth of cut. The cutters are just .210" and .175" carbide studs, with one end machined into 4 cutting teeth, and set-screwed into the holder. (Don't remember who made it.)

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Look for cutter grind shops in your area they willhave the machine and diamond wheels to sharpen them. But on a lot of reloading tools and even smaller cutters in the shop cost to sharpen may be more than a new tools.

    On a lot of tools ink the tool good and on carbide a diamond hone by hand keeping even with using the same number of passes on each edge using light passes close to the length of the stone. A lot of times 4-6 passes on each edge with a fine hone will make a big difference. Hold the tool in a vise and rotate for each cutting edge.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy SharuLady's Avatar
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    Hi, This a small continuation to my 1st post here. This if JFYI only.
    I got my order from Lyman, the uniformers, the reamers, & the scrapers. They are all sharp & cut 100% better. One slight problem is that the scrapper still didn't remove the excess metal that impedes allowing one to let a primer to sit properly.

    So started looking at the new scraper & I noticed on the main shaft that is just above the scraper was being rubbed & removed the black coating on the shaft. So that is when My idea was born.

    Now my neighbor has a very big machine shop (does a lot of work for NASA and other big company's) so I asked him if he could work on something for me to see if my idea would work. He said he could mill the shaft down to match the lower scraper, thereby giving me a deeper scraper (which would then allow to remove the excess metal impeding the primer). He brought it back to me this Am. SO I went out to my shop and tried it out on my Lyman Press Express and the 9mm brass.

    The Brass that is a problem is the S&B, Agilea (Spelling?, and a sm. amount of a few others brands. SO...…. I am very pleased & happy to say that it works perfect by removing the excess brass. I then check the brass with a primer hole go-no go gauge and it is perfect.

    SharuLady

  11. #31
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Sharulady: I have a suggestion that will save you infinite amounts of time and money.

    Stop using S&B Pistol Brass!

    I have shot S&B .40 S&W ammo extensively at Front Sight in Pistol Classes. I have had more FTF's and other problems with that ammo than all other brands combined. Primers in backwards or sideways is rather common and when I found at least one FU in every box I bought there, I just quit using it. They also don't Taper Crimp their ammo and rely on case neck tension to do it all. This results in bullet set back and when I saw one come out of my G35 when I unloaded it and caught the unfired round,,, the bullet was set back 1/8" !!!

    I was done with it! I made the trip to Walmart and got Winchester Ammo to replace it.

    I have been reloading Pistol Ammunition since 1978 and have NEVER UNIFORMED or Messed with, any Primer Pocket on an Auto Pistol round yet.

    I seldom reload any given case more than once as the vast majority of venues I shoot at don't really want you picking up brass. I have never found a need to even clean a primer pocket on a pistol case. I do sort my brass by head stamp and the S&B brass that finds it's way in only gets reloaded after everything else is gone. They get ran thru the D550 just like every other case brand however my reloads are loaded well below any Factory Loaded ammo so risk in minimal and I actually look at each one after it is loaded as it gets put into a box. They also get Taper Crimped like all the rest of my pistol brass, and I don't see why the factory doesn't do this?


    Wet tumbling also cleans primer pockets back to new much easier than trying to scrape out every bit of carbon deposits with a tool of any kind. I've got them all, and I don't use any..

    For Rifle Brass the only primer pockets that get messed with are X Military Brass. 5.56 and .308 and .30-06 brass. Either get ran thru the Dillon 600 or on the 5.56 brass I simply knock the crimp off with a countersink held in a Cordless Drill as it is by far the fastest way to process that type of brass. Most of the 5.56 brass is a one way trip and only gets loaded by me once and then it is gone.

    There is plenty of OF brass left at every range in this country. And there are many places to buy OF brass both here on Swap and Sell and at retailers. I even buy Brass that has been sized cleaned and primed from places like Mid South which has specials frequently. This brass goes directly in the D550 and bypasses the first station to get charged, bullet seated and crimped. You don't have any case prep at all.

    When you consider your time to monkey with all that case prep on volumes of brass, it does have value. However wouldn't that time be better spent "Dry Practicing?" for whatever discipline you are loading for,,, even if it is just plinking your gun handling always needs practice.

    My case prep for Pistol Brass consists of Dry Tumbling each batch for 24 hours after they are Sized and Deprimed. Then they go in the D550 and then into an ammo box. End of story.

    This is the way I do it, and some say it is the way they do it too. Just some suggestions to look at during your busy day.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    I bought a lot of the pulled down brass in 30-06,7.62 nato and M32 line throwing blanks dated WCC M32 67 and some M72 '06 match. The last two do not have crimped primers. Of course the '06 and the 7.62 nato have primers crimped. But all I bought had the primers punched out. So just had to do the crimp removal. Bought the Sinclair reamers that fit into a small variable drill. And yes a drop of lube every so often and cleaning the brass off the reamer with an old tooth brush will help the reamer cut better and last longer. I believe they make the reamers in HSS and carbide. HSS can be sharpened by hand, just run a small tool makers stone on the flat in front of the cutting edge and should clean it up. Best to have the reamer in a small tool makers vise and of course some lube. May not be the way it's supposed to be done but has worked for me. I hate throwing good stuff away. Probably because my Mom and Dad were depression era folks and money was tight. Frank

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Carbide can be sharpened also you just need the proper stones, We used to "touch up" carbide cutters with fine diamond paste and a small piece of copper flat stock. A small tool makers vise and pin vise makes the job easier. I was lucky when I was working since I was in the tool room I had access to a very skilled cutter grinder with a cnc cutter grinder to sharpen my tools.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy

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    I wrote, about my primer pocket uniformer:
    Quote Originally Posted by gunwonk View Post
    This one's carbide, but (finally) needs sharpening. Anybody know where to get that done, or a good way to do it myself?
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    It's a double ended tool, one end for large primers, the other end for small primers, both sides adjustable for depth of cut. The cutters are just .210" and .175" carbide studs, with one end machined into 4 cutting teeth, and set-screwed into the holder. (Don't remember who made it.)
    country gent responded:
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    On a lot of tools ink the tool good and on carbide a diamond hone by hand keeping even with using the same number of passes on each edge using light passes close to the length of the stone. A lot of times 4-6 passes on each edge with a fine hone will make a big difference. Hold the tool in a vise and rotate for each cutting edge.
    Thank you, Gent. You cracked the code for me, by advising to "ink the tool good". All it took was a Sharpie.
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Carbide can be sharpened also you just need the proper stones, We used to "touch up" carbide cutters with fine diamond paste and a small piece of copper flat stock. A small tool makers vise and pin vise makes the job easier. I was lucky when I was working since I was in the tool room I had access to a very skilled cutter grinder with a cnc cutter grinder to sharpen my tools.
    I wish I had access to a skilled helper, cnc tools, etc. And I considered touching it up by hand, but my cutting edges were visibly worn, and I figured it would take more than a few passes with the particular diamond file I have on hand.

    So, with apologies in advance for disregarding some of your other advice -- and heck, it's only 30 bucks -- I crossed the line into "don't try this at home".

    Harbor freight "Diamond Rotary Cutting Disc", 5 for $6.99, apparently intended for the edge to cut, but that's diamond sticking out of the flat surfaces ...
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    Set up in the kitchen drill press, with lots of light and a place to rest my hand. BTW, I elected to cut the relief surfaces, not the vertical flats, because I didn't think I could maintain 90 degrees on the latter, but with the Sharpie trick I could probably get "close enough" on keeping the relief angle. And the relief surfaces seemed to show visible wear, but the 90 degree cutting flats still looked okay.
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    One of my better cuts, some Sharpie still present at the left. (Not-so-better cuts not shown.)
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    Tool back in the holder, set up for correct primer pocket depth, and with a little brass stuck to the cutting edges. (Not just the big chip at the bottom. It's a little hard to see, but there's visible brass on at least 3 of the cutting edges, so I think they're doing their jobs.)
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    Not perfect, but it feels better than before, and I know I can work on it a little more, if I spot where it needs improvement. Just need to know when to stop.

    Meanwhile, I'll be thinking about how to make some kind of jig, to get my angles more exact.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    I load for the 7 mm Mauser. I got a good deal on some S&B ammo. I found the primer pockets to be a bit shallow for the primers I use.
    Bought the Lyman Primer Uniformer tool. The handle it came with worked but was slow. The handle was a universal handle that you can thread an assortment of tools into.
    I was trying to think of a better way. At the hardware store they sell threaded rod. You can get couplers for hooking two pieces together. I thought that If I could find a coupler the right size to fit the cutter from the uniformer, I could put it in a cordless drill.
    Only problem was the hardware store didn't have them that size.
    I searched on Ebay and found a seller that had just such an adapter. It was threaded for the cutter I had and was sized a 1/4 inch drive on the other end.
    I tried it in my cordless drill and worked great. Run the drill, push the case on till the head of the cutter touched the head of the case. Primer pockets cut to proper depth to allow primers to be seated.
    The drill worked well but was heavy. I found a smaller lighter cordless drill at one of my favorite places, Harbor Freight. It is a 4.8 volt drill, and was on sale for like $6.99. Perfect for this task.
    It also worked very well with my Lee case trimmer. I saw the fancy cutter Lee sells, the regular cutter glued into a wooden ball. I glued the cutter I had onto a wooden ball I had.
    After using it I thought that instead of gluing it in the ball, I could make one out of aluminum or plastic. Shaped like a pistol grip. Like the shifter knob you can get for your car.
    Except the hole where it threads on the shifter be large enough to put the Lee cutter. Locked in place with sets screws.
    This way easy to take the cutter out to sharpen or replace.
    As a matter of fact I just may search Ebay for a pistol grip shift knob tonight.
    Leo

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check