New to reloading hulls and have a few questions.

[archangel2003]

If you follow the manuals as to hulls, wads, etc. without straying, the crimp should firm everything up so there is no rattling. If you sub any component, shot or powder charge, it will change the fit of components in the hulls and cause rattling, crimps falling "in", or crimps popping/pushing out.

Um, nope, the wad jams against he sides of the hull as the tapered diameter reduces and stops leaving a HUGE chamber below the gas seal, and using more pressure in an attempt to get it to go deeper just folds the WAA 12L wad legs pushing the cup and slug deeper but leaving the gas seal were it jams, and I'd need much more powder to fill that chamber.

And I am following the manual as far as hull, wad, powder, primer and projectile are concerned.

[archangel2003]

Another way to go at it is to Roll Crimp your shells. Roll Crimping self adjusts to changes in column height. Learning how to
Roll Crimp is not hard and is well covered here in several threads.
Randy

How would roll crimping the top of the hull have any effect on the bottom of the wad where the powder resides?
I have a roll crimper and will eventually get around to doing it, but this issue has to be addressed first.

[gpidaho]

Just a question, not any sort of a put down. Why do you insist 0n using these tapered hulls? They aren't meant for slugs. Gp

[dsh1106]

I'm still learning this shot shell loading, going on three years now, but I have learned one thing. I won't use any published or unpublished load data that combines wads designed for a tapered wall hull in a straight wall hull or vice versa.

When I started loading I followed the published data without question, I had burnt and destroyed wads and a mess to clean out of my barrel(s).

Just my $.02

[W.R.Buchanan]

How would roll crimping the top of the hull have any effect on the bottom of the wad where the powder resides?
I have a roll crimper and will eventually get around to doing it, but this issue has to be addressed first.

Yes it does need to be addressed because the roll crimp will only go down to the top of whatever payload you are shooting. If you can't push the wad down to the top of the powder charge, something else is wrong.

I suggest you read my latest comment on the Roll Crimping thread about what kind of hulls work the best.

Randy

[archangel2003]

Just a question, not any sort of a put down. Why do you insist 0n using these tapered hulls? They aren't meant for slugs. Gp

No put down assumed.
I, being new to this area of reloading, used a Published recipe and it listed this hull, that wad, this powder and that primer, so I followed it.
Most importantly to start I made my choice with and chose a one piece hull because it would not have the potential of a barrel obstruction because of a base wad separation, and it was not only available but was not costly either (relatively speaking).
My first choice for a one piece straight hull (no separate base wad) were never in stock.

[gpidaho]

archangel2003: I believe that you would do very well by obtaining the Advantage Manual 10th edition from the folks at BPI. In just the first few pages all of the concerns you've posted are addressed. They are also a very good vendor that supplies many of us with the components we need to craft our loads. I recently purchased a whole case (2200) of Cheddite primed hulls from them for just $99. This deal is still available as are many offers of lesser quantity. A 100 hull bag of primed hulls can be had for around $10. That's pretty inexpensive to overcome a lot of frustration. Gp

[MT Chambers]

Um, nope, the wad jams against he sides of the hull as the tapered diameter reduces and stops leaving a HUGE chamber below the gas seal, and using more pressure in an attempt to get it to go deeper just folds the WAA 12L wad legs pushing the cup and slug deeper but leaving the gas seal were it jams, and I'd need much more powder to fill that chamber.

And I am following the manual as far as hull, wad, powder, primer and projectile are concerned.

um nope??? I believe that you are not following the manual's recommendation, if they recommend components for say 1 1/8ounces of shot and you use a slug instead, then you aren't following the recommendations.

[fastdadio]

How does one know if a listed hull is straight wall or tapered? I never see them listed in the loading manuals with this identified.

[archangel2003]

um nope??? I believe that you are not following the manual's recommendation, if they recommend components for say 1 1/8ounces of shot and you use a slug instead, then you aren't following the recommendations.

So, there is also a load with those same components for shot as well?
If so the load will still have the same issue.
The load said to use these.

HULL = REMINGTON GUN CLUB/PREMIER/NITRO 27
SLUG = LEE 7/8 oz
PRIMER = WIN 209
WAD = WAA 12L
POWDER = HODGDON HS6 @ 38 GRAINS = 1550 f/s

The only issue I have noticed is the loose powder rattling around, but they seemed to shoot ok at pistol ranges.

[archangel2003]

archangel2003: I believe that you would do very well by obtaining the Advantage Manual 10th edition from the folks at BPI. In just the first few pages all of the concerns you've posted are addressed. They are also a very good vendor that supplies many of us with the components we need to craft our loads. I recently purchased a whole case (2200) of Cheddite primed hulls from them for just $99. This deal is still available as are many offers of lesser quantity. A 100 hull bag of primed hulls can be had for around $10. That's pretty inexpensive to overcome a lot of frustration. Gp

I already have the Lyman shot-shell reloading manual, and did just order the Slug Loading Manual7th edition and it's supposed to be a good resource for slug loading.
It should have been here by now.
If I don't find my true love there, I'll order the Advantage Manual 10th edition and have a look see.

[gpidaho]

-I have found the BPI Slug Loading Manual #7 to be a little disappointing. While it does contain some loads that are not all BPI products, it doesn't contain any that don't require some. Fair enough I guess, it is their publication. Most of us here aren't going to spend a lot on projectiles that someone else builds for sale and prefer to cast our own. No matter who publishes the manual, all the how to information should be read and understood before proceeding to the load data. BPI's Advantage #10 has very good information in my opinion.Gp

[GhostHawk]

I agree that hulls should have a notation if they are straight walled and tapered. Ideall both hulls and wads would be cross indexed. If you buy these hulls you want X or Y wads.

This would make life a LOT easier for someone just getting started.

Like GPIdaho I found good bargains for new, primed hulls, skived and unskived at 9-10 cents each. Take away the price of the primer and they are often cheaper that used AA hulls.

I had no problems doing a few minor adjustments so they had clean factory looking crimps. Most of mine were loaded with a tactical buckshot load. 9 #1 buckshot over a moderate load of Red Dot. Some slugs. Considering the price of slugs and buckshot these days I feel like this whole endevour has paid for itself. I did load up one box of my dripped shot. Will hopefully be testing them all shortly.

[dsh1106]

How does one know if a listed hull is straight wall or tapered? I never see them listed in the loading manuals with this identified.

Based on what I have learned and tried since I started down this road:
Winchester wads are designed/fit for tapered wall hulls
Federal wads are designed/fit for straight wall hulls
I haven't tried any Remington wads, but most of the used Remington hulls I've tried were tapered wall. I would guess that the wads used on these were designed/fit for tapered wall as well.

I'm sure there are exceptions to everything I've mentioned here, but the components I mentioned seem to be pretty common items listed in most manuals for 12 gauge 2 3/4" shells

[oso]

Sorry to be late to this discussion, as this all makes no sense from the get go. I have no problem loading 38 grains HS6 in a GC/Nitro 27/Premier STS Remington hull with a 7/8 oz Lee key drive slug in a WAA12L wad. Except I don't enjoy shooting that stiff a load - my personal max is 35 grains HS6 and I prefer a lot lighter load than that.
No rattling powder! Slice the hull open and no air space between the wad and the powder! Wad legs OK!
The WAA12 wad series are all for taper wall hulls. I haven't used Claybuster Windjammer style wads but according to Claybuster they are "sized to accommodate the new AA and STS hulls." If I had 'em I'd use the CB4100-12B Lightning rather than the CB4118-12B Windjammer for a 7/8 oz Lee Key Drive slug.
If I were Archangel 2003 I'd recheck the details of the entire loading procedure. Powder drops consistent? The already loaded shells may be fine?!
Rem hulls have a reputation for varying length, but the interiors should be consistent.

[oso]

Another point raised was base wad separation. If reloading Reifenhauser style straight wall hulls I check the height of the base wad visually or with a marked dowel to detect raised base wads and discard such hulls. Straight wall hulls are great for card and fiber which let you tailor stack height. So archangel 2003, if the slug is low enough to rattle adding a disk or square (easier to cut) of paper towel or thin styrofoam under the slug will let you tailor the fit. Is it the slug or powder that you hear rattling?
OK, that's enough from Great Grandpa Graybeard.