MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingRepackboxWideners
Inline FabricationADvertise hereRotoMetals2Lee Precision

Donate Now Goal amount for this year: 6000 USD, Received: 5750 USD (96%)
Our Annual server fund drive is going on now! This donation drive helps fund Cast Boolits for an entire year, and helps support our 2nd amendment rights! You can donate by Paypal by clicking the DONATE button. Or by Cash / Check / MO to the address below:

Willy Snyder
PO Box 2732
Pocatello, ID 83206
****Due to overwhelming e-mails, I will be very slow in updating this list. Please bear with me!****


Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Looking for a machinist for a small project

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    199

    Looking for a machinist for a small project

    Looking for a machinist for a small project
    Would like to have someone machine me a steel lube plunger plug for the rcbs lube a matic, gen 1. The **** o rings that go around the plunger plug to seal the inside tube keep ripping and I知 tired of replacing them and loosing my lube to the top of the plunger. Anyone up for the task. I値l send my lube sizer clean of course so the correct inside measurement of the tube.

    Thank You

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    10,579
    What material is the current plunger made from? Steel brass or aluminum should work for this part. Another thing to check is how rough the tube is. this can also affect o-ring life. Another would be to check for sharp edges, these can cut the O-rings when starting the plunger or when they pass over them. A few things to check before going to making new parts.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    199
    The current plunger I believe is made from steel. Has the two o ring groves. My lube of choice is Randy Rats TAC-1, it's a little hard, could use a heater I think but I don't have one at the moment. What is happening is the lube is pushing the O rings out of the designated groves, which allows the lube to flow over the top of the plug. I have been to my local hardware store and purchased a ton of different size mostly smaller in diameter, o rings to try and help them stay in the groves, but they still seem to come out. Hence the problem. The inside of the lube tube is smooth and free of burrs.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy kir_kenix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Emerson, Nebraska
    Posts
    497
    Before you make a new part, maybe try better o-rings. I think I'm using viton instead of neoprene. They last alot longer...maybe 2-3 cents more for each one. Auto parts store will have them in a variety of sizes.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    10,579
    A hard lube ran cold may require a complete redesign on the plunger to possibly work. Some thing to consider O-Rings in hydraulic cylinders stand up to 3000+ psi routinely. I his could easily be passed with the screw thread and a cold hard lube. A little heat from a blow drier warming the tube occasionally or a heat lamp/trouble lamp would warm the machine. nothing fancy or excessive just space the lamp far enough form the tube to maintain temp when on. Another would be the element from a curling iron in an aluminum plate under the lubesizer.
    The new piston could be made as a 2 piece assembly. a nylon cup with thin lop fastened to a steel plug very closely fit to the tube, by close I mean .002 - .003 clearance between tube and plunger. 3 o rings to seal back side. In use the nylon cups thin lip would expand under the pressure as a primary seal that is set by lube pressure. The close fitted plug would be almost a seal limiting what could push past it and limiting "pressure" on the o rings. The 3 o rings would then be the final seal and catch all. This type set up can handle a lot of pressure with little to no blow by, but is also used where there is lubrication.
    While the above style piston would seal the higher pressures of cold hard lubes, the added pressure generated by the higher pressures may cause the fine threads in the drive rod to strip and or wear excessively. Here a new drive rod and cap would need to be made. A longer threaded rod from harder material. A new cap from better materials with a stem and longer thread to take the pressure.
    If there is a plug sealing the tube the added pressures may then blow past there also.

    This could end up being a complete redesign rebuild of the lube sizer and its parts. The trouble light with the appropriate wattage bulb spaced away may do what you want. The old soup vending machines that sold hot soup in the can were heated with a 100 watt bulb or so. The simple cheap trouble light should do the job

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    911
    I've used viton o rings when doing an mechanical seal or seals for fuel oil pumps. Viton can handle petroleum products way better that the neophrene o rings can. I've seen neophrene o rings swell up from coming into petroleum products and they are not as abrasion resistant as the viton rings. So I would first make sure the piston on the lubricator is free of nicks and burrs. And the same for the area where the piston is going up and down. And when you insert the viton rings a good silicone grease on the o rings is also suggested as well. And while it may pie in the sky the bore for the piston is should be as smooth as possible. And while it may sound crazy those o rings in your faucetts that have o rings in them, most say lubricate with silicone grease when doing the installation.Frank
    Last edited by samari46; 05-12-2019 at 11:31 PM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master



    retread's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    1,293
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    A hard lube ran cold may require a complete redesign on the plunger to possibly work. Some thing to consider O-Rings in hydraulic cylinders stand up to 3000+ psi routinely. I his could easily be passed with the screw thread and a cold hard lube. A little heat from a blow drier warming the tube occasionally or a heat lamp/trouble lamp would warm the machine. nothing fancy or excessive just space the lamp far enough form the tube to maintain temp when on. Another would be the element from a curling iron in an aluminum plate under the lubesizer.
    The new piston could be made as a 2 piece assembly. a nylon cup with thin lop fastened to a steel plug very closely fit to the tube, by close I mean .002 - .003 clearance between tube and plunger. 3 o rings to seal back side. In use the nylon cups thin lip would expand under the pressure as a primary seal that is set by lube pressure. The close fitted plug would be almost a seal limiting what could push past it and limiting "pressure" on the o rings. The 3 o rings would then be the final seal and catch all. This type set up can handle a lot of pressure with little to no blow by, but is also used where there is lubrication.
    While the above style piston would seal the higher pressures of cold hard lubes, the added pressure generated by the higher pressures may cause the fine threads in the drive rod to strip and or wear excessively. Here a new drive rod and cap would need to be made. A longer threaded rod from harder material. A new cap from better materials with a stem and longer thread to take the pressure.
    If there is a plug sealing the tube the added pressures may then blow past there also.

    This could end up being a complete redesign rebuild of the lube sizer and its parts. The trouble light with the appropriate wattage bulb spaced away may do what you want. The old soup vending machines that sold hot soup in the can were heated with a 100 watt bulb or so. The simple cheap trouble light should do the job
    I run randyrats Tac-1 in my 450. I do not use a heater but I have not run it in real cold weather as I am on the coast and the temps are moderate. I would think Oklahoma would be warmer that here. Silicone grease on viton o-rings sounds like a good place to start.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master slughammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SE PA
    Posts
    685
    Whatever type of o-ring you use, you should lubricate it well when you install the piston into the reservoir.

    On my Lubamatic, 450, and Star I use petroleum jelly (vaseline) all over the o-rings/seals and into the mouth of the reservoir. This helps the o-ring slide in the reservoir instead of sticking to the sides. Makes installation much easier.

    Also, use the correct size o-rings. Using a smaller one just stretches it thinner and gives less compression to the reservoir wall.
    Happiness is a couple of 38's and a bucket of ammo.

  9. #9
    AKA: GRMPS Conditor22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,118
    This is RCBS we're talking about. Call them. They may recommend O rings, a new plunger or just send you one (or both).

  10. #10
    Moderator



    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    11,960
    I wonder how close in diameter the old style Lyman pressure nut with brass sleeve is to the internal diameter of your RCBS LAM I lube reservoir?

    No Orings to wear or get pinched/cut on the old style Lyman. The Brass sleeve has a notched split, so it can expand under pressure, while they are known to leak a tiny bit under high pressure and especially if Lube is heated up too much, it should work great for you application.

    While the Pressure Screw's threads are different from RCBS and Lyman, that part would be easily enough made/modified, if the Lyman Pressure screw wouldn't work as is.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    的f someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    New Mexico/Baytown Texas
    Posts
    3,064
    Tulsa is plenty cold in the winter.

    I would be concerned that smaller O-rings would displace more easily than larger ones. A snug fit against the piston and the wall of the tube will seal best.

    A heater is easy and cheap to make. Mine is a 6"x12" piece of aluminum upon which I set a $3.00 Goodwill clothes iron that I set on low. I adjust the temperature by varying the distance between the sizer and the iron. Light steel would work about as well as the aluminum. I use TAC-1 and heat it a little except in the warmest months. My reloading room is in a detached workshop but heavily insulated so it's never as cold or as hot as the ambient temperature.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,241
    I have 4 Lyman and 2 RCBS lube sizers.
    I bought the first RCBS generation 1 lube sizer in 1975.
    I have never had a torn O ring. You are doing something wrong to have O ring problems.
    I once worked at a pressure vessel company that tested O rings to 9000 psi. i have also worked in a semiconductor equipment company that produced ultra high vacuum equipment. The vacuum produced went down to 1X10-9. Torr. You should review how you are using your tools.
    EDG

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    199
    Thanks for the replies. Going to get a lube heater and see if that helps. I've had the lube for quite a while now, but it has been stored in a ziplock and inside the house under a cabnet, it may have dried out a little bit. I've coated the new rings with Vaseline to see if that will keep them from sticking to the side wall and being pulled up. Been trying to reach RCBS but have not been able to reach them as of yet, in order to get some O rings from them. Too me this lube is hard, and I do heat the main tube up with a heat gun to get it flowing, without it, it becomes to hard to move.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check