What’s the best method for holding a barrel in a three jaw chuck? Copper, leather or something else ?
Thanks
What’s the best method for holding a barrel in a three jaw chuck? Copper, leather or something else ?
Thanks
I seldom use a 3 jaw for barrel work, but in the 4jaws I use copper or lead sheet. around1/8" thick I prefer lead unless doing heavy machining. The lead seems to conform to the barrel contours better. On a good chuck with freshly ground smooth jaws you may not need and soft jaws
Does it make a difference using a three or four jaw chuck for polishing ?
Wrap the barrel in copper wire.
quando omni flunkus moritati
I've never found it necessary to do anything other than clamp the barrels in the chuck jaws. If it's marred a little bit from the jaws it's usually not difficult to polish the marks out on a buffer. But, if you don't want any jaw marks you could consider using a split ring like those used in a barrel wrench. Mine are mostly aluminum.
All the above could work and I have copper pennies for heavy work but then for just a light hold like sanding a round barrel I have used a pop can cut up and can even double this for a better hold.
You can cut up three pieces or cut a long strip - diameter times three for a single wrap or diameter times six for a double wrap.
A 3-jaw with a round barrel for sanding/polishing.
A 4-Jaw used with an octagon barrel only makes sense.
Chill Wills
Good idea using aluminum from pop cans. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen real copper pennies.
A piece of fine sand paper works like a charm
Like most things in live there is rarely a single "best". A better prospective is what is the most preferred?
The goal normally is to have the bore as concentric and parallel to the bore of the spindle as possible.
After that the most preferred is based on what you are trying to do, time verse cost on what your are trying to do, the geometry of the work, what equipment you have, the condition of the equipment and the operators abilities to either take full advantage of the equipment or to overcome it's limitations.
On a barrel blank like a Krieger that the OD is cylindrically ground your methodology may be different than on some of the barrel blanks are basically hot rolled finished that are not true to anything.
Doing AI chambers or threading muzzles on light weight rifle barrels can me a challenge since almost all surfaces are tapered.
What specifically are you doing?
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
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- Wayne Dyer
I believe he said polishing in post #3
Chill Wills
I get leftover copper flashing from the scrap yard. Wrap the barrel with the flashing and a couple pieces of electricians tape to hold everything in place. Frank
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |