Quick question for Rough Rider owners

[fatelk]

I have a quick question for you all. Take your Rough Rider revolver and carefully cock the hammer back. Pull it back slowly and only far enough to cock it. Is the cylinder fully rotated into position and latched?

Mine is not quite fully rotated at that point. It is able to fire, though, and when the hammer drops the cylinder clicks into position and the bullet inevitably keyholes. Cock it with authority, all the way back, and it locks and fires fine.

This seems like a bit of a timing problem to me. In my way of thinking you should never be able to pull the trigger and drop the hammer unless the cylinder is in position and locked. I'm told this is normal though, because the manual says "Pull the hammer all the way back with a smooth stroke until it stops, then allow the hammer to move forward (it will move slightly) until the trigger engages in the hammer at full cock."

It's not a big deal. It's a cheap gun and I can live with it either way. I'm just curious as to whether this is by design or if mine has a timing problem.

[onelight]

Sounds like a problem to me the cylinder should be locked when it clicks in at full cock.

[Tracy]

Timing problem. The hand (part that rotates the cylinder) is a bit short.

[fatelk]

That's the obvious assumption, but if I understand correctly they're saying that it's a normal part of the design and they're all like that. That's why I asked if any other Rough Rider owners could take a look.

[onelight]

That's the obvious assumption, but if I understand correctly they're saying that it's a normal part of the design and they're all like that. That's why I asked if any other Rough Rider owners could take a look.

Not an assumption that is one of the basic conditions you check for on a revolver and correct if found. I returned a new bearcat for that reason and it was corrected. At best it is a lousy shooter at worst it is dangerous to others on the firing line from spiting lead out the sides.

[fatelk]

You’re missing my point completely. I know about timing and what any quality revolver should be.

This Rough Rider is a very cheap gun. It is less than a year old with no sign of any wear on the parts in question. A Taurus phone rep told me there’s nothing wrong with it, that it’s designed that way because the manual clearly indicates you must pull the hammer completely back before firing.

SO, either the rep is clueless or the design is junk. That’s why I wanted actual confirmation one way or the other from other Rough Rider owners. If everyone reports back that theirs work properly, then mine is defective and I’ll send it in. If everyone reports that theirs do the same thing, the the design is junk and I won’t bother.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I sold a bunch of these when I was a dealer, prior to 2012. Never had any complaints or got one back. I understand that the company has changed hands, and have not handled a current specimen, but will make a couple of general gunsmithing observations. It is the nature of the design that the hammer must be fully cocked, and done so firmly. Sneaking up on the full cock notch doesn't give the cylinder the full amount of inertia in turning that the design, and all single actions, require to function reliably. Timing single actions is just a bit tricky, and as noted in an earlier post, the hand may be a bit short but as you have observed does function properly with a firm cocking motion. You are manipulating it to malfunction. If it locks up as it should when it's cocked as it should be it's not defective.

DG

[Buzz Krumhunger]

I just checked the RR 22 Magnum I carry in my truck to shoot trapped hogs with. The cylinder bolt locks the cylinder up solidly at full cock no matter how slowly I cock it.

They’re not very good guns but seem good enough for what I’m doing with mine, and I don’t worry much about it suffering cosmetic damage.

[Texas by God]

Mine carries up correctly when you cock it but is horribly inaccurate as I have whined about to - everyone

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[fatelk]

I don't think I was necessarily manipulating it to malfunction. I first noticed the issue when I was carefully shooting from sandbags for accuracy. It was keyholing badly and I realized that the way I was cocking it wasn't locking the cylinder. If I consciously cock it back with authority it's fine.

Out of six single action revolvers, the only other one I have that does this at all is an old Italian made '58 Remington cap and ball, and it only ever-so-slightly. I have to cock it very, very carefully to get it to not lock. This Rough Rider is not even close, nowhere near. It's very easy to get it to not lock when I'm shooting carefully from a bench. I have to change my habits to make sure I'm not gentle when cocking it. Here's a photo of the cylinder index when fully cocked without pulling the hammer fully rearward:

Attachment 241456

It's really not that big of a deal to me. It was a cheap gun and I still don't hate it. I've spent more on less before. If this is just how it is I can live with it. It's less than a year old and still under warranty, but I'm not going to bother sending it in. They want half the value of the gun just to look at it.

[429421Cowboy]

I'd say it looks like a good excuse to get in line for a Ruger Wrangler!

[fatelk]

I just bought one last weekend. So far I like it a lot. It locks up solid. For an inexpensive revolver I think it has great potential.

I’d better be careful not to speak too soon though. I was very happy with the Rough Rider until the barrel came loose. If that hadn’t happened I’d probably still be singing it’s praises. Well, that and the timing thing. It’s pretty accurate for such a cheap gun.

[onelight]

I don't think I was necessarily manipulating it to malfunction. I first noticed the issue when I was carefully shooting from sandbags for accuracy. It was keyholing badly and I realized that the way I was cocking it wasn't locking the cylinder. If I consciously cock it back with authority it's fine.

Out of six single action revolvers, the only other one I have that does this at all is an old Italian made '58 Remington cap and ball, and it only ever-so-slightly. I have to cock it very, very carefully to get it to not lock. This Rough Rider is not even close, nowhere near. It's very easy to get it to not lock when I'm shooting carefully from a bench. I have to change my habits to make sure I'm not gentle when cocking it. Here's a photo of the cylinder index when fully cocked without pulling the hammer fully rearward:

Attachment 241456

It's really not that big of a deal to me. It was a cheap gun and I still don't hate it. I've spent more on less before. If this is just how it is I can live with it. It's less than a year old and still under warranty, but I'm not going to bother sending it in. They want half the value of the gun just to look at it.

If they will sell parts you might be able to buy another hand and fix it yourself I don’t mind experimenting if I can replace a part it I mess it up.
I stretched the hand on a cap & ball revolver kit to correct the timing.

[BigAlofPa.]

I have 3 of them. I always pull the hammer all the way back before firing. I just got this one. It has adjustable sights too.

[fatelk]

Wow, what a hog-leg! I like it. My very first revolver was a Dan Wesson .357 mag with a 15" barrel. I sure wish I had kept that one. Out of curiosity, do all 3 of yours index completely as you cock them, if you don't pull all the way back?

As I sit here and play with it, I realize that under most all conditions it cocks and indexes fine. It's pretty natural to pull through when cocking. If I just train myself to never be overly gentle with it I think I'd never notice. If this is just how it is I can live with it. If it was a nicer gun I'd really want it to be right, but I'm not going to worry about this one. It doesn't seem to shave lead. The forcing cone on these is cavernous so that probably makes the difference.

I looked on their site and they do sell parts, but not hands. I'll bet they won't sell one because it has to be fit to the gun. I looked and measured how much it moves past full cock before the cylinder latches, and the hand would need to be quite a bit longer. A few thousandths wouldn't do it, more like at least 30 or 40 thousandths. I don't mind tinkering. This might just be a future project. It shoots fine as is for now, but I still don't think it's quite right.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

I’ve got a Single Action that doesn’t lock up all the time, I thought the hand was too short. My local gunsmith pointed out the cylinder was rubbing on the barrel. The excessive drag was responsible for the cylinder not fully rotating to lock the bolt into the notch at the top dead center position.

[onelight]

I’ve got a Single Action that doesn’t lock up all the time, I thought the hand was too short. My local gunsmith pointed out the cylinder was rubbing on the barrel. The excessive drag was responsible for the cylinder not fully rotating to lock the bolt into the notch at the top dead center position.

Does it have excessive end play in the cylinder or not enough gap from the factory?
Curious what he recommended to fix it.

[BigAlofPa.]

I checked the advance at partail cock. It does not advance all the way. Just a partial advance. Checked on all my S/A revolvers and my wives and sons. None do. Different brands including the Heritage.

[fatelk]

I meant full cock, but without pulling the hammer past to where it contacts the frame. Slowly cocking to where the sear engages fully and you can pull the trigger and fire.

[fatelk]

I’ve got a Single Action that doesn’t lock up all the time, I thought the hand was too short. My local gunsmith pointed out the cylinder was rubbing on the barrel. The excessive drag was responsible for the cylinder not fully rotating to lock the bolt into the notch at the top dead center position.

That's another issue with this Rough Rider. It has no cylinder gap, just lots of end shake. The cylinder rubs on the barrel. The magnum cylinder is exactly the same. It spins pretty free even though it rubs. I put two .004" endshake bearings in it, and it tightened it up to right where it should be.

I feel like a bit of a fool. I was in a hurry when I bought it, brand new at a gun show, and it was zip-tied. I didn't take time to check basic things like cylinder index and endshake. It was new in box with a dozen others just like it; I just figured it must be OK. Never again.

I know there are a lot of Rough Rider fans who will insist that they are just as good as a Single Six. Reality though is that they are slapped together as fast as possible by low skilled workers, using the cheapest materials, with little or no QC. If you get a good one they're still a good value for the money, but otherwise...