Cutting down a mil surp stock and ensuring that the cut is square and no angles.

[waksupi]

For putting on a nose cap, I will make my measurements, draw a line over the stock, and use the bandsaw table to keep things squared up for a 9o degree cut from the barrel channel. Then I go to the sanding disc to give a perfectly flat gueing surface. YMMV.

[samari46]

One of my first joinery tasks was to extend the butt on a ex military Rem 40x rimfire stock. Actually had to make up a walnut dutchman to fill in the handstop channel. Small block plane until it almost fit. Then sanding carefully until it required finger pressure. elmers glue applied with a brush and in she went. Used four of those screw clamps with the soft pads. 24 hours later then used the block plane to get it as close as I dared.Then it was a matter of sanding flush. And made up the dutchman for the butt with wood dowels. Used some scrap 2"x4" and some threaded rod as a clamp. Why go to all this trouble??. Cause my Rem Sendero with the 26" barrel fit the factory inletting perfectly.Definitely agree that making a jig to work off the table saw takes more time than it does to cut the stock. My crappy table saw doesn't vibrate much when in use. Put the sanding plate on and add the sanding disc and you can watch the vibration move the saw. Think a trip to the lathe is in order to true up the plate. Only have one gun shop in town and he has an arangement with another smith for all his gunsmithing. So I do what I can with what I've got. And thanks to all. It continually amazes me the breath and scope of knowledge the members here have. Frank

[725]

I use a Dewalt chop / miter saw with a 100 tooth blade. Have done numerous nose caps and an untold number of recoil pads. Set up & stability is everything. Shim, measure, shim & measure again. Wether you are changing the butt angle or just shortening the LOP, sporterizing the fore-end, take the time to get it solid and then step back. Is it right? If so, then a firm, slow, steady speed cut will get it done. Good luck.

[samari46]

Was on the Fruend website last night and they have a Diablo 10" x 90 tooth blade and reading the hype says the cut comes out like they used 220 sandpaper. And almost burnished the wood as its being cut. Price isn't as bad as I would thought it would be either. I have a few older mauser stocks that aren't good for much more that firewood so I'll use one or two doing the cuts as if it were real. Since it's a 10" blade can be used in either table saw or mitre saw. Frank

[Dan Cash]

If using a chop saw you will have to support the end of the stock so you have a 90 degree angle to cut. Otherwise the stock, being tapered and not square, will end up with an angled cut. This will have to be laid out, every stock will have a slightly different taper.

Place the dowel against the fence, not the stock. The dowel is more or less parallel to the bore axis for the 4 or 5 inches involved and will produce a cut that is square enough for joining stock sections under a band and more than adequate if just shortening the fore end.

[samari46]

Actually the whole idea of asking how to do a cut started out with a BSA 22rf martini that had a non standard forend. Instead of the long style used on a model 12 or 12.15 it looks like it is a stevens forend because it has that short section up front that would have a barrel band. The other day when I originally posted this thread, found a 1903 Springfield "C" stock that had been cut down to eliminate the part where the barrel band used to be. Stock is in nice shape and would be a shame not to use it for my sporterized 1903A3 with a lyman 57 rear and I hope to find a lyman 17xnb globe sight to replace the redfield sporting front sight. And maybe add a short section of rosewood to the end of the forend. I don't hunt anymore as I have mobility issues so I think I'll glass bed the action and first inch of the barrel and leave the rest free floating. I always enjoyed the excellent wood working skills by the members here. Some of the stocks are truely remarkable. And again thanks for your suggestions and comments. Frank