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Thread: Lee 2 cavity mold severely out of round.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee 2 cavity mold severely out of round.

    I went to cast some Lee TL357-124-2R and noticed there was a very noticeable seam where the mold halves met. When I close the mold you can see it’s out of alignment, a little wiggling of the mold with a gloved hand makes it better. No wiggling it is .010 OOR, with wiggling I can get it .003 OOR but have to spend time to make sure it’s close. I casted up 60 testers and only got 10 that were useable (.001 off). I have never had this problem with this mold before, after last use I let air cool and put it in the factory box on the shelf. I have cleaned and lubed it still same issue.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Is this the newer 2 cavity with pins or the older with the v bars for alighnment? Check for dirt build ups and dings on the pins and sockets, or in the bars and recesses. Clean good dry and look over these areas with a good magnifying glass. Make sure blocks are free in the handles and the handles open and close smoothly. Something has changed since the last use.

  3. #3
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I have had a few of the older types do this .lining them up and drilling and putting pins in seemed to cure this.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee 2 cavity mold severely out of round.

    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Is this the newer 2 cavity with pins or the older with the v bars for alighnment? Check for dirt build ups and dings on the pins and sockets, or in the bars and recesses. Clean good dry and look over these areas with a good magnifying glass. Make sure blocks are free in the handles and the handles open and close smoothly. Something has changed since the last use.
    It has cone shaped alignment pins. I noticed the rear alignment pin socket has a ding in it. Looks like the pin has been tapping on the socket when closing for awhile. Blocks move freely as well as handles.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee 2 cavity mold severely out of round.

    Pin hole closest to handle


    Forward pin hole









    A little twist will get them close and then have to push to get the height same.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Are you sure the male pin side is protruding enough to properly align/engage in socket? Can you shift block faces fore and aft when lightly together? How much aggravation does it take to push your twenty something dollar button?

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gtek View Post
    Are you sure the male pin side is protruding enough to properly align/engage in socket? Can you shift block faces fore and aft when lightly together? How much aggravation does it take to push your twenty something dollar button?
    Not sure on if they stick out enough. Yes I can shift the faces in any direction with them slightly closed.

    My $20 button has been pushed this is the second Lee 2 cavity that has done this. I’m looking for a higher quality mold RCBS, Lyman, Accurate or NOE. Just can’t decide on which brand and bullet design.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    JBinMN's Avatar
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    That pin(top in the pic) closest to the handle is out of alignment itself & most likely causing the mis-alignment of the whole mold.

    You can see it as compared to the bottom pin in the pic. The bottom pin is shown in the pic to have a "concentric" ring around it where the pin meets the mold. While on the pin closest to the handle(top in the pic) does not have the concentric ring appearance where the pin & mold face meet so it appears to be pointed in the direction of the handle and possibly in combination with the pins socket/receiver being dinged, or perhaps even being out of alignment as well, is causing the "bent?"/"out of alignment" pin (& possibly the socket/receiver) to offset the mold face/side that does not have the sprue pivot.

    How to fix?

    Well I can't say specifically about something to try without going out to the garage & looking at one of the 2 cavs I have a bit more closely, but the solution is obviously to get that bent or misaligned pin back to where it is straight & true again, and of the socket/receiver mate is able to be re-aligned & repaired if necessary.
    Maybe you can tap the pin back into being square to the mold face & clean up the socket/receiver hole a bit with something abrasive or whatever. Really I would have to look a bit closer at one to come up with what I think is the best way to possibly fix the issue...

    That is all I got for now, anyway.

    BTW, like ya said , it is a $20 mold, and I don't know how long you have had it or how many "good" boolits it has cast for ya, but I know mine have well paid for themselves and are still going strong with no issues so far.

    Do as ya like, but consider that for $20 you can either dink around & try to fix it, regardless of how it happened to get out of alignment, or just buy another mold. ( I recommend a 6 cav & handle, BTW. I have the same mold in both 2 & 6 cav. ) If ya decide not to mess around & fix it, perhaps we can make a deal on the one ya are not happy with any longer. LOL

    G'Luck! whatever ya decide to do.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master


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    A Lyman or RCBS mold won't outlast a Lee, and won't be better quality, so I wouldn't consider those. Either NOE or Accurate depending on the design might last 3x what the Lee will, but will cost 4x as much. Have you considered a 6 cavity Lee? It looks like you cast a lot of that bullet, and a lot of guys say they like the 6 cavity better than the 2, and for more reasons than just the increased production. Another option is Arsenal molds. They are up there in quality, and are significantly cheaper than NOE. I don't know if he will have that exact design of bullet or not, but he does do limited custom molds too.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master


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    In my opinion, Lee molds are a great deal, if they have what you’re looking for. However, I will only buy a new one, that can be returned if it’s not right. Buying used, how much are you saving? Maybe you’re just getting someone else’s problem. Not worth the risk in my book.

    If the mold has been damaged while in your possession, there’s a better chance of repairing it than if it was machined incorrectly.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I agree with JB in Mn, go to a 6 cavity. Huge difference IMO.

    Double cavity's it may help if you consider them a "Kit" like the old CVA muzzleloading kits. Some tweaking, assembling and general knowledge is required to make them perform correctly. But the cost is reasonable.

    Every Lee 6 cav mold I have bought has worked out of the box with minimal fuss required on my part.

  12. #12
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I must agree if they move around i doubt the pins are out far enough. Knock them out a little more so they make good contact.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    LYMAN/IDEAL MOLDS last forever.
    I have molds that are older then I (65) am. If they didn't last why are there 1500+ always on fleabay ? Most people Don't know how to take care of/and maintain a mold properly.

    I have 3 30yr+ Lee 2cav molds that were bought barely used. They still cast great bullets. They are in great shape.
    I have 3 other used Lee molds that are less then 5yrs old, that I got for postage. They are beat to BLAZES. One is unusable, I'm trying to resurrect the other 2.

    Lyman molds today ???
    Unfortunately since they were bought by a uninterested conglomerate, quality has really suffered. Molds are still top quality. They JUST CAN'T MAKE THEM THE RIGHT SIZE, Most are Undersized. That's what started me on N.O.E.

    RCBS probably makes the BEST iron/steel mold today.
    I have 40yr old molds that cast better then when they were new. The only Problem is 2cav is your only choice.
    I cast from 3-4 at a time. And they are the same height as Lyman 4cav molds.

    OLD H&G are probably the Best Molds ever made. But Don't ever buy one without It's handles or any kind of rust or Clear crisp pictures.

    Lee 6cav molds are Ok, I bought my first one 3 1/2 yrs ago. Some new, some used. I think I have 6+ now. All have been pretty good.
    The 2cav are junk, they have removed so much Aluminum from the blocks that It's next to impossible to maintain an even heat when casting.

    I have aluminum N.O.E. and ACCURATE 4 & 5 CAVITY Molds. They are the very best. And their Cust. Serv. Is as good as RCBS.

    I've been Casting for 57yrs. From 10cav H&G molds down to 1cav OHAUS molds.

    The better the casting rythem, casting from the same brand and/or height of mold. Quality of pot and proper maintenance of alloy. And overall technique are the key to great bullets.

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  14. #14
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    mdi's Avatar
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    To me at least, it looks like that mold has been abused. I have Lee molds I purchased 20 years ago that have produced thousands upon thousand of bullets that do't look that bad. All the scratches from junk under the sprue plate scratching up the top of the mold make it look like it's 40 years old. In one pic there is lead deposits just outside the alignment socket. The "out of alignment" ding looks like the mold was dropped or slammed shut. My first action would be to clean up all lead deposits, clean the bottom of the sprue plate and top of the mold, lube the sprue plate and pins, and extend the alignment pins a bit.
    Last edited by mdi; 05-08-2019 at 11:01 AM.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdi View Post
    To at least, it looks like that mold has been abused. I have Lee molds I purchased 20 years ago that have produced thousands upon thousand of bullets that do't look that bad. All the scratches from junk under the sprue plate scratching up the top of the mold make it look like it's 40 years old. In one pic there is lead deposits just outside the alignment socket. The "out of alignment" ding looks like the mold was dropped or slammed shut. My first action would be to clean up all lead deposits, clean the bottom of the sprue plate and top of the mold, lube the sprue plate and pins, and extend the alignment pins a bit.
    I gouged the top about two years ago when I reassembled the sprue plate wrong. It has never been dropped. I have casted about 5000 with this mold, haven't been to impressed with the TL design. I was given some of the lee 124's with lube groove awhile back and those performed considerably better. Really wanting a 147gr design for IDPA, currently use 147gr RN Plated and liking them but its getting expensive buying bullets.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    The one pin hole in the first pic looks out of round?? For what a 2cav Lee cost, just buy another if you like it? Or better still a 6cav?
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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master


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    If you want a round nose 147 grain, why not try the Lee 358-150-1R, which is available in a 6 cavity?

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    If you want a round nose 147 grain, why not try the Lee 358-150-1R, which is available in a 6 cavity?
    I have thought about using that one or the 358-140-SWC , I was concerned about the crimp groove possibly messing with feeding.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    I cleaned up the mold and tapped the pins out a few smidges, it has helped but still pretty OOR. Calling it a bust and going to buy a new mold of different design.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Lee has a series of oval bullets meant for use in Glock polygonal barrels, another Lee first.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check