Snake penetrating oil tests

[john.k]

A lot of the old time products contained carbon disulphide a very penetrating liquid.......so penetrating,if you get it on your hands ,you could taste the stuff in a few seconds....Needless to say,it is banned........a lot of the so called tests are simplistic,and dont reflect the variety of real world situations...........you cant compare a clean tight fit ,with old rust in a looser fit...............Incidentally,rust is a water based compound,and is hydrocarbon repellent.......in other words to penetrate rust you need a different system.............and we did it in marine situation with a solution containing nitric acid,and nitric ether.Both these liquids have a very low surface tension ,and solvate rust.

[William Yanda]

solvate-71years old and still expanding my vocabulary.

[john.k]

W.Y........believe it or not ,there is a monthly magazine called "Rust".....and it contains articles about......rust......and I might add,when you are dealing with half baked greenie millenials on Port Authority and Harbour Trust admin staff,you use non threatening words ,as getting work permits can hinge on not alarming a twentysomething girl with nasty words like "acid" and "dissolve",and say things like environmentally friendly and mild solvent tendency and carbon neutral.

[izzyjoe]

Knowing from experience after working on equipment, and trucks for 20 years, PB blasters is the best penetrating oil that I've ever used, and I've used a lot of home brew concotions through the years. But if its rusted bad, ain't nothing gona work but a smoke wrench! If you want to try out different penetrating oils, try changing the tracks on a dozer, you'll soon find out what works!

[john.k]

I find grouser bolts come out real easy when I cut the heads off with oxy......just gotta remember not to knock the redhot head into the belly guards......lucky we were insured.

[loveruger]

I use a product called Free all. I've used everything mentioned I think free all is great try it.

[Three44s]

Heat, vibration and penetrating oil ..... in that order.

On really rusted items there are no penetrating oils that can work miracles. Now if you have all the time in the world then just soak the item in something like Kroil or for big parts then diesel fuel.

Even heat is not magical but I like repeated cycles of heat and cooling, use a water spray bottle to mist the small part if you dare, but be ready to kiss it good by if it’s cast iron.

If I have a thru hole to heat out the other side I have luck heating to red or yellow and chilling the item then chilling and heating back and chilling down. Run an easy out in with a hammer to seat it in the internal part and remove it quickly before the heat transfer softens the tool. Quench the stuck part and resume heating and cooling without involving the extractor until you are back to cold. The goal here is to create a swaged internal surface within the stuck part while it is malleable because doing so upon the quench the part will harden to some varying degree and cause the extractor to skate inside the part and not grab it.

For plumbing fittings and nuts I can get to a hammer treatment serves me well. If I can get the part to an anvil I rotate the part on the flat area and strike all around the fitting or on the wrench flat of the nut. We are not talking lady taps here but good smart striking. If the part is not portable or too large to bring to an anvil I use a much bigger hammer as a portable anvil or “back up” following on the opposite side of my striking hammer strikes.

What you are striking is the outer part to cause a bounce away from the internal part with repeated strikes gradually enlarging the outer piece, all the while the rust between the parts breaking down and allowing a penetrant/lubricant to move into the space.

If the part is galvanized you are in a very different pickle where heat is needed. If you over heat where one or both parts are galvanized you can only heat on a limited basis because if you activate the burning of the coating between the parts the residue acts like sand and gravel in the interspace.

Three44s

[ackleyman]

take it from a guy that re builds front ends on cars, trucks, and various tractors with rusted on bolts:

Free All is in a class by it's self

these did not work so well:
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This is the product you want to try:

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