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Thread: Any tips for fixing this old shed?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    Any tips for fixing this old shed?

    The bottom support for this shed is rotting away. I'm not sure what is the best way to go for replacement of that beam. I have a couple beams that can go in there, I could use some advice to start off on right foot.

    It's a 2 story with wood floors. It was used as a grainery with 3 bins in the first level and a bigger bin on the second level which has a chute that goes down stairs. I've been working on cleaning it out and getting old junk and oats cleaned out of there.

    So here are some pictures, I wonder if I take out what's left of that beam if it weaken that wall? Looks like pictures aren't going to good I can try later.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190429_171341.jpg   20190429_171438.jpg  
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  2. #2
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    Buildings have a lifespan.

    Looks like that one is about at it's end.

    It might be my imagination, but I think woods rots faster and faster once the rot gets ahold of it.

    It might be better in the long run to pull it down and replace it with a steel building on a slab.

    If you're going to fix it, ya need to jack it up just enough to slide in the new beam, and set it back down.
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  3. #3
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    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Ive seen the guys on This Old House replace a sill, best case you can get inside and run a 4x4 beam across the roof and with 4x4s pillars on top of big bottle jacks planted firmly on a solid floor if not all the way to the ground to "lift" and take the load off that outside wall and support that end wile you replace the sill with something more serviceable. You may also have to go up into the wall and either splice or sister in new studs up the wall based on how bad the rot is on the lower ends.

    Its a big job either way, good luck. will be following to see how it turns out.

  4. #4
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    You would have to jack the building up and replace that beam, then set it back down.
    However, looking at the outside condition, without seeing what the rest of it looks like, it may all come down once you start jacking it up.
    I would be very cautious with this project.
    Stay safe.

  5. #5
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    If that building was in my neck of the woods, it would be full of termites. It's pretty far gone, any attempts of jacking it up and replacing beams may cause it to collapse.

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    would need more and better pictures and information.

    Need substructure, interior, and some distance pictures to get a better feel for this.Know what kind of weight we're dealing with. Looks like the sides are tied to the center which makes things more interesting.

    Not saying it can't be done, but if you're not 100% sure about what you're doing, don't do it, not worth the risk.

    Try IMGUR for pictures http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...es-using-IMGUR

  7. #7
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    lefty o's Avatar
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    rip it down, sell off whats not rotted as barn wood (yes people pay good money for it), and build new.

  8. #8
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    Are you trying to repair it permanently or just so you can use it? If you just want to be able to use it i would suggest jacking it up and placing a beam under it a n set it on the new beam. I wouldn't jack directly on building i would use small beam to jack say a 2x12 couple feet long. If you want to do a permanent fix you need to jack it up and cut old beam out and replace and i would put new foundation supports. Now i am no contractor but i have jerry rigged a lot of stuff. But a lot af contractor's will give you a free estimate and you can discuss what they recommend and you can decide if you want to try it yourself.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input guys. Here are some more pics. It is 20' high, 15' wide and 16' deep. The lean to sheds are 12' and 14' wide.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190429_185117.jpg   20190429_185006.jpg   20190429_185211.jpg   20190429_185312.jpg   20190429_185626.jpg  

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  10. #10
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    create a temporary wall 3-4' back from the rotted area on the inside, make sure there is support under the floor! Use 2x4's that are a little to long and as you beat them in place they will lift that end 1/2 inch or so. Cut out ALL rot, sister in new studs, replace sill beam... might have to replace some of the flooring(don't put rotted floor between new sill and studs, it will start rotting them immediately!

    How I did one wall in my kitchen where the sill was rotted... Cut floor joists back 2' added 2' back on with a 4' piece each side to attach to the old, did same for the wall studs. I got lucky and floor was still sound... it is a LOT of hard work!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    Her are a couple from underneath. Yeah I suppose something like imgur would have went better.

    Thit's wood doesn't look too bad.

    There is a beam, sill? About two feet back from the rotted one for making a temporary wall like MaryB mentioned.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190429_194756.jpg   20190429_194937.jpg  
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RED BEAR View Post
    Are you trying to repair it permanently or just so you can use it? If you just want to be able to use it i would suggest jacking it up and placing a beam under it a n set it on the new beam. I wouldn't jack directly on building i would use small beam to jack say a 2x12 couple feet long. If you want to do a permanent fix you need to jack it up and cut old beam out and replace and i would put new foundation supports. Now i am no contractor but i have jerry rigged a lot of stuff. But a lot af contractor's will give you a free estimate and you can discuss what they recommend and you can decide if you want to try it yourself.
    I think it was repaired some time ago like how you're saying by looking at some ruff cut 2x8s towards the middle.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I think you could jack the building up on that second beam, replace the sill place, lop off the studs and scab on repair sections. It'd be a fun project, and id be glad to help if you was round these parts.
    Last edited by Bazoo; 04-29-2019 at 09:39 PM.

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    I cant give you any advice, and I wish I could somehow give you Boat Loads of encouragement. I would really like to see some new life breathed into that old building. It's really disappointing to see old buildings just demo'd without thought to history or maybe the Future ?! I see tons of possibilities, I just don't have the experience to help.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    Thanks again everyone! I got some great ideas from all of these posts. I think I should take a closer look at the corner on the left side and the sill that goes to the rear left corner of the building. There is more dirt on that side making it harder to see. I'd like to try and fix it if possible.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lefty o View Post
    rip it down, sell off whats not rotted as barn wood (yes people pay good money for it), and build new.
    I had a cousin build a mansion on a lake and use barn wood for the flooring. All of the wood had to be planed for even dimensions, but after it was finished, it looked amazing. Any yeah he paid good money for that wood. He bought an entire barn and had it disassembled and finished to use as wood flooring.


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  17. #17
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    After running a renovation/restoration business for 20-some years, it looks like the sill replacement and floor/wall repair are 'doable' but I'd have to do an assessment of the whole structure to make a call on the economic feasibility. Material cost shouldn't be too bad if you've already got (or can borrow) the necessary jacks but, in my experience, realigning something that's been that badly settled is going to cause something else to shift. One time, I leveled the hardwood floors of a late Victorian (circa 1900-1905) and had to refit about half the downstairs doors and window sashes.

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  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Bill has a good point, it might not be feasible to fix it completely level. Fix it as close as you can, jack it up a little at a time and check it several times to make sure everything's okay. Better to fix the corner and it still be 2" low than to pop all the boards across 1/4 of the buildings adjoining sides.

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    I would suggest 5 gallons of diesel and a road flare.

  20. #20
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    It's hard to tell without seeing it in person. Looks like the attached building to the left has also sagged in that corner as well. That's a gable wall and isn't structural. How level is the floor itself? I've jacked up several structures, slow and steady is the key. Looks like your down about 4" or the height of one clapboard. The sill needs to be replaced and the studs need to be sistered and a proper foundation installed. You need to remove the door, about 2ft of the siding and the flooring to that seam were the next joist/beam is. That wall looks to be 12ft wide, I would run a 3x10x16 beam across the front of the building above the removed siding at the angle of the dip, extending out both sides. Use structural screws like Spax to secure the beam to the wall on the joists.I would then screw a 2x6 the length of the wall even with the outside beam on the inside then I would through bolt the beams with all 1/2" all thread or carriage bolts and sandwich the wall. The right side doesn't look like it needs to come up more than to clear the old foundation height. I would make a good solid base for the jacks to sit. Jack up that left side just enough to see it move and give it a day. I'd jack it up about 1/4" or so a day this lets things settle in to their new position. What's level? You may have to fudge this some, if the 3x beam was placed at the angle of the dangle even with the sagging wall/siding you might use it to figure level. You jack 4" at once and your sure to blow something apart. Get it just over the height you want. I'd replace the sill plate with a pressure treated full length 6x6 or I'd make a form and pour a short foundation wall with a pressure treated sill plate. Set the plate at the final height you need. I'd cut away the bad ends of the studs, sister a stud at least a foot higher to one side and fill in what I cut out. Lower the wall back on your new plate. Remove the jacks & beams. You'll have to see what you need to attach the floor, install the siding and door. The door may need some work but may go right back in as well. Over all it's not a lot of materials or work it's just time consuming. Good luck, Jay

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