Lyman mold 245496

[3GRacing]

I found this mold and tried casting with it yesterday and today. Drops a nice 85gr Loverin design bullet, 18- 20BHN. Drops is the keyword here. I'm having to pound the heck out of the pivot bolt to get them to drop. I've tried all I know, smoking the mold with candle, bic lighter and cleaning with kroil, no difference. The mold is clean and tight. I have other Ideal Loverin bullets in 7mm and .308 that drop without a problem. I'm wondering if its because the boolit is small and light?

[Bent Ramrod]

I’ve got that mould and the grooves do indeed seem deeper than similar designs in other calibers, like the 225438, 257463, etc. I only have one 6mm rifle so I haven’t done a lot of casting with it, but I don’t recall any trouble getting the boolits out of the mould. Have you tried the Q-tip trick along the edges of the cavities to check for burrs?

Another casting kink I have learned to use with success with the more high-strung custom moulds is the Paul Jones technique. After cutting the sprue, I press the outboard lower left-hand corner of the mould into the wooden bench top, press the end of my hammer-handle sprue-cutting stick against the inboard right-hand edge of the mould, and relax my grip on the handles with my left hand.

The blocks push slightly apart and you can see the boolit sort of roll its way out of both sides of the cavity. It’s Theee way to go with the multitude of deep, square grooves on BPCR boolits (unless you enjoy the emotional catharsis of beating on something and screaming imprecations), and might work as well on your more rounded Loverin grooves.

A shooting friend got this technique from Jones himself when he drove to Jones’ grind shop in LA to pick up a mould he had ordered. Jones took him into a back room of the shop, saying “Now I’m going to show you how to use my mould.” There was a casting pot and dipper ready to go, and my friend got the tutorial and demonstration right there.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Years, I had a older lyman 2 cav 245496 and it would drops boolits easily.
In my experience, if an Iron mold is troublesome, it's usually a burr or sharp edge that the boolit will cling to.
Other members had posted they will use a magnifier or cotton ball to find them, then remove then with a Xacto knife or similar.
When I've tried that, I have been unsuccessful. What I have found successful for fixing a mold that boolits cling to, is polishing the cavities by spinning a boolit coated with mild polish.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ing-of-boolits

[3GRacing]

Good stuff fellas, thank you, I'll ck for burrs and go from there...