Gun Safes

[redhawk0]

Hi guys,

I received some gift cards for Bass Pro Shop at Christmas that were specifically designated to purchase a Gun Safe. (yes...from the wife) She's tired of seeing them stacked in the corners of every closet in the house. (with locks of course...and we have grand children now)....anyway....I'm looking for what to look for or look out for in regard to a gun safe. I'm looking for something in the 30 arms capacity...that's both long gun and handgun numbers.

I looked at the Browning safe and it looks pretty nice...but I don't want to go by something that has just good looks. I'm looking for something that will secure everything I own (except personal/home protection pieces) and keep them from from theft and the kids/grandkids.

I'm not looking to break the bank either...something in the $1000/1400 range will do.

redhawk

[M-Tecs]

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...YPCeNX7VEa7O-8

[gpidaho]

I much prefer the mechanical locks to the electronic models. I would recommend the Heritage safes made here in Idaho but sadly they couldn't weather the last economic down turn and are no longer in business. What ever your choice might be, you'll feel much better when the guns are locked up in the new safe. Gp

[Dieselhorses]

Just remember, you get what you pay for! Most safes with keypads can easily compromise the solenoid with a heavy magnet. Watch this video.

[StratsMan]

Get a bigger safe than you think you need. 1) To accomodate future guns, and 2) because they never hold as many as they say they will

Bolts and scopes get in the way; if you only have skinny lever guns without scopes, you might be able to use every slot that's counted for a rifle. Otherwise, plan on reducing the gun count about 25% from the advertised number....

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Go wide. Makes it easier to get things in and out without unloading the entire safe. Don't forget your Golden Rod.

[T-Bird]

+1 for getting bigger than you think you need, for the reasons stated.

[Froogal]

Number 1 thing you want to be aware of is the fire rating. Look for the label which states the number of minutes it will withstand at such and such temperature.

[Winger Ed.]

The 'box' and door on most of them is basically the same.
A good comparison from one to another is the weight, and look for the fire rating.
The weight will give you an idea how thick the walls and door are.

The locks can be changed out if it doesn't come with the one ya want.
If you can change a door knob on your house while chewing gum, you can change the lock on a safe.

[snowwolfe]

I owned 4 different brands over the last 20 years. The only one I would not purchase again would be Cannon. They are very cheaply made.

If you have scoped rifles realize each one will take up almost 2 spaces.

[lightman]

I'll just echo what the others have said. Treat a safe as an investment and buy as much as you can afford. In the real world they don't hold as many guns as they advertise so buy bigger than you think you need. The 72" tall models offer space for a shelf above the long guns where there may not be enough space for a shelf in the 60" models. This is convenient for things like magazines, binoculars, spotting scopes, cameras and many other valuables.

Just a few ideas that I have used; If you are handy with tools and have any basic carpentry skills you can design an interior that may fit your needs better than what may be offered. And probably cheaper. I removed the sheet metal liner on the inside of my door and replaced it with a piece of peg board. It works well for hand guns. I also installed a golden rod in mine. Another thing I did to aid organization was that I bought a small cheap lock box to store documents in. Its not very secure but thats not its purpose, it just helps keep my papers together. Wills, titles, deeds, ect.

Good Luck with your safe purchase.

[shdwlkr]

some things to think about
1. How much do you want or are willing to spend
2. Get as big a one as you can
3. pay attention to the fire rating
4. pay attention to how much it weights, might dictate where you put it
5. Last thing is unless you are willing to pay $15,000 up your safe is really only a fire vault and to keep honest folks out of your stuff

[redhawk0]

Thanx for the advice guys...I'm rethinking my original plan. The wife and I talked a bit last night about it and I proposed buying a safe from someplace other than Bass Pro. They tend to be overpriced to begin with...this way I can get more safe for the same money. I have a local Tractor Supply that sells Liberty Safes...I'm likely going to go that route.

With my gift cards...I'll just wait until they have the new Henry 35 Rem. on the shelf and put them towards a new "safe stuffer".

redhawk

[bob208]

I have a liberty franklin model with the manual tubular lock. it defeated some real determined people. I still have all my Winchesters that were in it at that time.

[WheelgunConvert]

Be sure that you can open the door in the spot it’ll get planted!

Try to leave a little air gap at the floor to reduce condensation, even with a lectric stick

[knifemaker]

I would not worry too much on the fire rating. It will vary among different brands. Some of the best is 1800 degrees for about 20-30 duration. Only problem is most house fires will be over 2500 degrees and your guns will be toast. I have seen firearms from 4 house fires and none of them survived without heavy damage. One friend had a safe with a high fire rating that he paid about $2,500.00 for. After his house fire, total lost, the wood on the rifles was totally burned to ashes and the heat treated metal was damaged beyond saving. I have a safe, but I also have a rider on my home insurance that will cover replacement cost on my firearms.

[Petrol & Powder]

Buy big, collections tend to grow not shrink.

I prefer a mechanical lock.

Safes buy you time. No safe will withstand a prolonged attack by thieves or fire. The question is never, "will the safe be compromised" ?(the answer is always - Yes). The question is, "How long will it take before the safe is compromised"? You're buying time and more time costs more money.

Place the safe on a small pedestal so that it is not directly on the floor. 3" of solid wood (two layers of 1 1/2" lumber set at right angles) will save you a tremendous amount of damage from minor flooding due to plumbing leaks or small collections of water on the floor. And, the pedestal will greatly reduce condensation on the bottom of the safe if it is placed on a concrete floor.

At the very least, BOLT the safe to the floor and if possible, two walls.
EVEN BETTER- Bolt the safe down AND build walls around the safe with a door large enough to allow access to the safe but small enough to prevent the safe from being removed through the doorway without tearing the wall and door frame down.
This accomplishes several things: 1. it conceals the safe. (concealment is the first layer of protection from theft)
2. It prevents the safe from being tipped over on its back.
3. It greatly reduces access of prying tools.
4. It makes it very difficult to remove the safe entirely.


I am a firm believer that the only firearm that is outside the safe when the home is unoccupied is the gun on YOU. Unsecured firearms hidden in a residence only serve to arm an otherwise unarmed intruder.

[winelover]

All questions are answered in the video that dieselhorses provided in post #4. Go with a manufacturer that has the redundant locking options (both types of locks) ............you'll be glad you did. The manual locks are too slow and are exasperated by aging eyes or if your in a hurry. I converted my Liberty to electronic, a couple of years after its purchase. The vault door (Brown Safe) I put in my new home, has both locks.

Winelover