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Thread: New shop update

  1. #161
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have you checked your Spam folder to see if it got filtered out?

  2. #162
    Boolit Grand Master

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    New mail, old mail, recently deleted, spam, and recycle bin.

  3. #163
    Boolit Master


    Bookworm's Avatar
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    9 pages on a ship build, and not one picture.

    Really ??

  4. #164
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Finally a hurdle crossed. One of the commissioners was just here and gave me my occupancy permit. I can now get I the building and get moving again with it. 6-7 weeks on it with the games that were being played.

  5. #165
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Thats certainly good news!

  6. #166
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Finally a hurdle crossed. One of the commissioners was just here and gave me my occupancy permit. I can now get I the building and get moving again with it. 6-7 weeks on it with the games that were being played.
    That's great news! I've been following the thread in disbelief - kinda' angry about how you've been treated. I hope the problems you've been having are behind you, and you can move forward with it.
    So many guns, so little time
    _____________________________

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  7. #167
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Well back at it today. Hung the wiring for the lights and 6 led 3200 lumen 4' fixtures. For now on a plug until I get electrical needs figured out for sure and get electricians in. 2 in each bay front angled to back wall and back angled to front. Did wiring on floor and put up done fit in place great and was easier than running wires and making connections on the ladder. My son put it up wiring, chain, and lights in 2 hours. Used light chain across the top edge trusses then hung light chains from it. gave good side to side adjustment and height adjustment on the lights.

    cal attorney I tlked to could take me as he has represented people on the board and it would be a conflict of interests for him. He did recommend a college in Toledo

  8. #168
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Friday got a load of wood delivered for the new bench, 2 x 4s 2 x6s and 2 x8s all 8" long. Also oak dowels 3" long 3/4, 1/2, and 5/16. Glue and the needed drills. Yesterday made a set of trestles and set up bench top on them. Bench top will be 32" W X 96" L X 32" high 3 1/2" thick. Has 5 2 X 8s meshed in to make stiffening ribs and the mounts for the legs. Legs are 4 1/2 X 5 1/2 laminates with a 2 x 6 brace around roughly 12" above floor, these will be mortised in place and locked with dowels. Should be a heavy solid bench to work on. No nails or screws, all wood dowels and lock dowels with glued joints. Will give it a heavy oil finish when done. Figured it up last night and roughly 450 holes to drill. LOL Need to get drill press back now.

    What can be added to the original gorilla glue to color it? I would like to add a spacer between tops joints and black glue to have a black line between boards showing. Just think it would look good.

  9. #169
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Friday got a load of wood delivered for the new bench, 2 x 4s 2 x6s and 2 x8s all 8" long. Also oak dowels 3" long 3/4, 1/2, and 5/16. Glue and the needed drills. Yesterday made a set of trestles and set up bench top on them. Bench top will be 32" W X 96" L X 32" high 3 1/2" thick. Has 5 2 X 8s meshed in to make stiffening ribs and the mounts for the legs. Legs are 4 1/2 X 5 1/2 laminates with a 2 x 6 brace around roughly 12" above floor, these will be mortised in place and locked with dowels. Should be a heavy solid bench to work on. No nails or screws, all wood dowels and lock dowels with glued joints. Will give it a heavy oil finish when done. Figured it up last night and roughly 450 holes to drill. LOL Need to get drill press back now.

    What can be added to the original gorilla glue to color it? I would like to add a spacer between tops joints and black glue to have a black line between boards showing. Just think it would look good.
    Powdered concrete tint

  10. #170
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    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    What can be added to the original gorilla glue to color it? I would like to add a spacer between tops joints and black glue to have a black line between boards showing. Just think it would look good.
    I would recommend Franklin Titebond 2. High moisture resistance, doesn't foam out of the cracks, and a much better hold over time. I laminated blocks a couple years ago with gorilla glue and they have come apart. Unimpressed!
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  11. #171
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    Mal Paso is right. Back in the July/Aug 2007 issue of Fine Woodworking, an extensive glue test was performed. The PVA glues won out. I can't post a link because I don't subscribe to their back issues but I do have them on my computer. A similar test is linked below. It shows similar results and names Titebond II specifically although NOT for exterior conditions. Epoxy is the recommended glue for that.


    http://tinyurl.com/y5wpkjp7
    John
    W.TN

  12. #172
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Ive always had good results with the gorilla glue holding but will research the others to see. As the bench top is 22 boards I need a long cure time. I haven't fully decided on the dye yet just thought the lines might be an interesting look and appeal to the eye. Did some more layout work today got the dowel pattern for the legs laminations Figured out. Laid out 1 leg and will fasten stops to it and use it for a jig for the other 11. Buddy stopped by today really like the building and layout of it. He looked or the bench top on the trestles and thought it would be plenty sturdy.

  13. #173
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    It really takes immersion in water to soften a Tightbond II joint not just getting it wet. I use it outside on anything that gets painted. Titebond joints are usually stronger than the surrounding wood.

    In polyurethane the old Vulcum calk was awesome for dimensional lumber. Great for gluing stair treads, no squeaks but lord help you if you have to remove one.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  14. #174
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    Mal, I guess we have had somewhat the same experiences. I used Vulkem caulk to install crawl space vents. Here in Tennessee we don't normally have basements. After almost 50 years my vents had deteriorated and needed replacing. Originally, they had been installed by the brick masons using regular mortar. I'm not a mason, so I bought the Vulkem and installed new vents. They have been in place for about 5 years and show no sign of failure.

    Not cheap as caulk goes but overall worth the cost.
    John
    W.TN

  15. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mal Paso View Post
    It really takes immersion in water to soften a Tightbond II joint not just getting it wet. I use it outside on anything that gets painted. Titebond joints are usually stronger than the surrounding wood.

    In polyurethane the old Vulcum calk was awesome for dimensional lumber. Great for gluing stair treads, no squeaks but lord help you if you have to remove one.
    Yep. When we had an overhead garage door installed to replace the sliding door on our shop I had to do some framing prep. Being a model airplane builder/flyer I've used lots of Titebond and TB II. The overhead door guy gave me some incorrect dimensions and I had to rip out a header that I had installed with screws and glue. I removed the screws and proceeded to destroy a yellow pine 2x8 trying to get it off of the existing structure, breaking it into several pieces with a crow bar while prying it off. Nothing to do with water resistance but it demonstrates the effectiveness of Titebond.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  16. #176
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Busy day today worked on the new bench got the leg laminates cut and made 8 mortise and tenon joints for the leg braces. Lot of time with a dovetail saw and chisels LOL. But got it done. Waiting on glue, clamps, power hand planer and some other things to come now.

  17. #177
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mal Paso View Post
    I would recommend Franklin Titebond 2. High moisture resistance, doesn't foam out of the cracks, and a much better hold over time. I laminated blocks a couple years ago with gorilla glue and they have come apart. Unimpressed!
    Another fan of Titebond, I use all three depending on application plus West system epoxy. I won't have gorilla glue in the shop, hate the foaming and the stained hands. And I don't believe it is as strong or as durable as the Titebonds or the West System epoxy.

  18. #178
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Modified the leg brace tenons today to a angled surface on the bottom side they were a "snug" fit and assembling them with glue would have been hard. Vut a wedge same angle so now I can glue slide brace in to flush and then set the wedge to lock it up tight. 5 1/2" x 1 1/2 long mortise. Wedge is 10" long and when hand set 1" of small end is past leg so I can glue in brace and glue in wedge drive tight and then cross dowel.
    Electric hand planer and some bar clamps came today so Im ready to move on.
    Finished up the legs today all the cross dowels and lock dowels are glued in.

  19. #179
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    I hope we can see a picture of the bench when you finish.
    John
    W.TN

  20. #180
    Boolit Master
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    You may want to lightly score the glue mating surfaces of the 2x's. I raise my table saw blade up about 1/8" and make 4 passes on each side. Extra glue surface area and less worry about over tightening clamps.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check