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Thread: New shop update

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    Looks like you got the lighting all taken care of. If I had to do it over again, I would alter the shape of my house and drop the roof line at the garage wall, creating shorter ceilings. I wanted taller at the time, so I could swing a 4X8' sheet of plywood around without dinging the ceiling drywall or breaking lights. I wasn't thinking about heating it at the time. It's 23 degrees as I type, which is relatively warm for this time of year, its just too much space to heat. I now wish for 8' ceilings.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master


    mold maker's Avatar
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    A ceiling fan in an out of the way position will make use of some of that wasted heat, but it will also spread the dust more evenly.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  3. #43
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Mould maker, Im planning on a vent to outside the building to exchange the air in the room every hour or so to help with smoke when welding and machining.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    Hi country gent.If you are thinking about a floor finish like you spoke of,I would have it done when the floor has been fresh poured and cured.
    If you don`t you will have the extra expense of having to clean and/or grind the surface so that the epoxy finish will bond to the cement.If the epoxy does`nt bind to the floor on curing,the whole floor will possibly have to be taken down to fresh cement before refinishing.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Woodbutcher, Im still thinking on the floor its a bigger thing My favorite "chair" is my Trac Chair so its got to be a durable solid surface. Im considering epoxy coatings, the hard surface finish they do on concrete. And also a traditional ( for machine shops) wood block floor on top of the concrete. The smooth float finished concrete will be durable and easy to sweep chips and sawdust off of and to clean. Tracks will leave scuffs when turning. The hard finished concrete looks better with the same benefits an issues. The wood block floor is easer to stand on and more comfortable, more cushion than concrete. Im thinking 6" X 6" X 3" blocks. (Stack them in like the old cobble stone roads). Here when laid in snug moisture can swell them and cause "turtle" to form. More of a fire hazard when welding and cutting. And the big thing is Im afraid the trac chair may pull them up when turning.
    Ive got lighting about figured out, venting, heat and AC. walls and ceiling. Still need to make a scale drawing and rough in machine lay out, electrical outlets, Benches. Service panel. I need to decide on floor, Hoist, and some other little things. Windows will be up higher so busy bodies cant look in. This may also help let more natural light in to room and building, and help with security some.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
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    Hi country gent.Thanks for the reply.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  7. #47
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    I'm a contrarian, I really don't like my 8ft drywalled, stippled ceiling. Prior owner did it. Stippled ceiling in a garage. Stupid. Lights are too low. 9ft would be great. 10 ft even better. Heat be darned.
    Make sure you wait 30 days to epoxy the floor.

  8. #48
    Boolit Grand Master

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    HandLoader, Im planning on waiting 2 months on the shop floor before I start moving equipment in. Give it plenty of time to cure and stop releasing moisture. Just to be on the safe side. ( I have read where some engineers claim the Hoover dams concrete is still curing in places). Ill bet the building will be nice and warm while the floor is curing out LOL. ight now If I can get it Im planning on 7 bag mix hair and tram for the floor. May have some color added to it instead of paint or epoxy. That way me being my clumsy self when I drop something and chip it, it wont show as bad.

    Moving machine equipment is much easier with the taller door and 10' ceiling. I also have found the taller ceiling gives better more even light distribution ( maybe not the right term but).

  9. #49
    Boolit Mold
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    I'm all for the new LED lighting. I have a large garage that had 4 fluorescent lights. In the winter it was a **** shoot if 2 of them would even come on. The others start out pretty dim but do brighten.

    I have since replaced the 2 lights with 4 ft LEDs and I'm totally sold on them. They light instantly and give more light. The last 2 will be replaced in the spring.

  10. #50
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Talked to the contractor Thursday. next month or so the garage comes down and a 40X50 pole building goes up. ridge light and 3 ft cupula for natural light. 2030 inside room for my shop 10 ft ceiling. Have to get the building permit and the garage cleaned out. 1 contractor is doing it all start to finish removing building, moving a small building, putting up the building and pouring concrete. 10" concrete under the shop area. rebar 24" centers thru floor. 2 10ft garage doors 1 8 ft garage door. chain fall openers on doors. 1 6' entry door and one 4' entry door. 3 windows.

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
    labradigger1's Avatar
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    Good grief! 10 concrete floor?
    Life is so much better with dogs!

  12. #52
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Only under the shop where the lathe mill grinders and shaper will be. 6" of it is freebie from the old garage to boot. Gives ma a very stable floor and saves having it broken up and hauled away. The big horizontal boring mill at work sat on a 6' thick pad separate from the floor.

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by labradigger1 View Post
    Good grief! 10” concrete floor?
    You have to realize when it comes to heavy shop equipment Country Gent “comes loaded for BEAR”. Lol!

    CG,

    You will wonder how you ever got along without LED lighting, it’s the rips for seasoned eyes!

    Three44s

  14. #54
    Boolit Grand Master

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    It sounds like you have a nice shop planned. I wish my shop floor was thicker but I was not there when they poured it.

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy
    1911sw45's Avatar
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    make sure they tie the old floor with the new floor

  16. #56
    Boolit Grand Master

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    THey are planning on rebar in the old floor at 45* angle 2" up and roughing the surface up. The "standing up" rebar is also going to be used to help support the new floors rebar
    Last edited by country gent; 01-12-2019 at 08:38 PM.

  17. #57
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    Go a tad brighter with LED than you want. They lose a little brightness with age and in 6 months or so will be a bit dimmer.

  18. #58
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    $20 Costco LED Shop lights won't work with a 10" slab. You need "Industrial LED Lighting" all wired in conduit for that. LOL
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  19. #59
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Dad routinely poured floors at 6". If it was a barn floor and heavy loads 8" with heavy rebar and wire mesh.( 300 bushels of shelled corn in a wagon gets pretty heavy). Look at the foot print of most machines sitting on leveling feet the Pounds per square inch is higher than most think. The heavier floor also improves finishes with its resistance to vibration and stability. While I'm not planning on any really big equipment a shaper may go 1800 lbs or a little more when sitting on 4-5" leveling feet that a lot of concentrated weight.

  20. #60
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Paid the first quarter payment last week and building is ordered now. Got the building permit wensday so am ready to go. Now t get the garage emptied out of 25 years of accumulation. LOL. Contractor will strip aluminum siding and copper wiring before taking it down.

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