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Thread: Slicking up a Winchester '73. Any advice?

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    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Slicking up a Winchester '73. Any advice?

    So I have this original 1873 made in 1888. The first time I run the lever, the action is really stiff. Similar to when you get a rifle out the box new. Once the hammer is down, the rifle functions super smooth. Im guessing it wasn't shot super often.

    Do I need to soften up the hammer spring? Or maybe the two little springs on the side of the receiver?

    I am aware of the videos about slicking up lever guns but they mostly consist of changing out parts for modern ones, which i am not a fan of. Im looking for a more Homemade fix.

    Side Note: Does anyone know how to prevent Nickel from tarnishing, and remove tarnishes when they appear.
    44-40

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    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    I wouldn't it could cost reliable ignition. I don't think stoning it will help because of the age it will already be broke in might look at the spot where it Rub's and look for pitting. better yet there is no hope for it you should send it to me I'll throw it away for you.

    others will have better advice nice gun

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozark mike View Post
    I wouldn't it could cost reliable ignition. I don't think stoning it will help because of the age it will already be broke in might look at the spot where it Rub's and look for pitting. better yet there is no hope for it you should send it to me I'll throw it away for you.

    others will have better advice nice gun
    Thanks. I still want it to be reliable but im just not an expert on springs or gunsmithing or .. anything.

    jack of all trades, master of none.

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    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Hard to tell from just pics but that looks to be in very nice shape. If unmolested in this area it's a 4K rifle without the emblem on the butt stock. That probably is a 1k to 1 1/2 deduction. If it was mine a good cleaning and lube is all I would do. If you want to proceed with an action job the cowboy action shooter will be your best source of info.

    https://forums.sassnet.com/

    https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/

    https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php...a-uberti-1873/

    http://www.davidscottharper.com/shoot/PoorMan.htm
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 04-25-2019 at 01:45 AM.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master BigEyeBob's Avatar
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    Have one the same ,have to trap the but stock under my arm to open it , well oiled and maintained ,bore is like brand new ,overall finish is fine circa 1889 .p .Has the trapped butt with original cleaning rod .I rarely shoot it because I have a 92 in similar condition and the same cal (44-40) and use that mostly .

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    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Hard to tell from just pics but that looks to be in very nice shape. If unmolested in this area it's a 4K rifle without the emblem on the butt stock. That probably is a 1k to 1 1/2 deduction. If it was mine a good cleaning and lube is all I would do. If you want to proceed with an action job the cowboy action shooter will be your best source of info.

    https://forums.sassnet.com/

    https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/

    https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php...a-uberti-1873/

    http://www.davidscottharper.com/shoot/PoorMan.htm
    It is in good shape. Paid Under 4k, but over 2k. The emblem is Canada's original motto. Im canadian. No one knows where it came from but it is super old. Its not stamped on or anything modern. Its painted over the stock varnish... also causing it to flake off.

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    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEyeBob View Post
    Have one the same ,have to trap the but stock under my arm to open it , well oiled and maintained ,bore is like brand new ,overall finish is fine circa 1889 .p .Has the trapped butt with original cleaning rod .I rarely shoot it because I have a 92 in similar condition and the same cal (44-40) and use that mostly .
    Mine isnt that stiff, but I still need to work it alot more then some videos iv'e seen. For example, I cant shoot it shouldered. The action is to stiff.

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    Boolit Master
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    Sounds like you do not like the force required to cock the hammer when you open the bolt.
    By design there is not a good way to change that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Thanks. I still want it to be reliable but im just not an expert on springs or gunsmithing or .. anything.

    jack of all trades, master of none.
    EDG

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    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    I have went to a lighter spring in my Marlin but sometimes I'd get a primer that was hard lighting and eventually went to a duel spring setup which is still stiffer than I like but no more misfires
    Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both

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    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EDG View Post
    Sounds like you do not like the force required to cock the hammer when you open the bolt.
    By design there is not a good way to change that.
    How do they shoot so fast in cas? There's no way I can shoot it from the shoulder. I know some of them use 44-40 with originals.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    How do they shoot so fast in cas? There's no way I can shoot it from the shoulder. I know some of them use 44-40 with originals.
    Kev
    forget CAS speed - they race guns - how far would a fomula one race car get on the dirt roads where you go hunting?

    Take a good look at the strain screw that tensions the mainspring - plenty of fellers think this is just another screw that you wind in until it gets tight to turn - nope - its an adjustment screw used to put (only) as much tension as needed on the main spring to get reliable ignition - back that thing off until you get an occasional light primer strike/fail to fire - then give it a half turn in - test again .... to help this process along load your ammo using Federal large pistol primers - they seem to be the softest to ignite. Its a real nice looking original - cleaned and oiled it should work fairly sweet without race mods .

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    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    Kev
    forget CAS speed - they race guns - how far would a fomula one race car get on the dirt roads where you go hunting?

    Take a good look at the strain screw that tensions the mainspring - plenty of fellers think this is just another screw that you wind in until it gets tight to turn - nope - its an adjustment screw used to put (only) as much tension as needed on the main spring to get reliable ignition - back that thing off until you get an occasional light primer strike/fail to fire - then give it a half turn in - test again .... to help this process along load your ammo using Federal large pistol primers - they seem to be the softest to ignite. Its a real nice looking original - cleaned and oiled it should work fairly sweet without race mods .
    Il take a look at the screw. Il mess around with it if there isnt any issues.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Well thanks Indian Joe. You made all the difference! The tension screw was tight so i loosened it, but that didnt affect anything. I Then looked at the main spring screw and it was tightened down (by me) coming out the back of the main spring. So I back it out abit. I can see about two threads of the main spring. Its still not butter smooth but so much better! I unscrewed it more and it becomes real nice, but the hammer barely has any power. THANKS!

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    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    Any chance that rifle has a history with the RCMP? Interesting that it has your Cnadian motto on the butt stock.

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    What Indian Joe said. I have adjusted my Cimarron Arms replica 1873 to increase the spring tension for CCI primers. Try a quarter turn at a time. Also, make sure the contact points between hammer and bolt are super smooth and well lubricated. A drop of oil here before shooting makes a difference from being dry.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedbugbilly View Post
    Any chance that rifle has a history with the RCMP? Interesting that it has your Cnadian motto on the butt stock.
    Someone on here already checked in a winchester book and didnt find anything. I dont think its related to anything. I just assume a Canadian at some point in time had someone paint it on.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattlesnake Charlie View Post
    What Indian Joe said. I have adjusted my Cimarron Arms replica 1873 to increase the spring tension for CCI primers. Try a quarter turn at a time. Also, make sure the contact points between hammer and bolt are super smooth and well lubricated. A drop of oil here before shooting makes a difference from being dry.
    I use rem oil in a spray can. its easy to get in tight places but recently I jsut bought a small bottle of hoppes oil. Its not in a spray but it lasts so much longer. The rem oil is to much of a liquid.

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    The carrier in Rem Oil evaporates pretty fast and leaves behind only a little Teflon. For me it’s an emergency use only item.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    The carrier in Rem Oil evaporates pretty fast and leaves behind only a little Teflon. For me it’s an emergency use only item.
    is there a better spray option? I have small bottle of hoppe's that is great, but it isnt spray.

    I use the hoppe's for the outside and action. Sometimes on patches for the barrel. Usually only use the spray for the bore... it gets far in there.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    How do they shoot so fast in cas? There's no way I can shoot it from the shoulder. I know some of them use 44-40 with originals.
    CAS guns have much of the internals replaced or highly modified. Custom toggles are used to allow the guns to be "short stroked." Carriers are either replaced with an aluminum carrier, or the brass is carefully machines out to lighten the carrier. Lever and lifter springs are either replaced with wire springs or the stock springs are altered. Coil hammer springs are installed. Lightweight firing pins are installed. Moving parts are de- burred. Sights are replaced with buck sights and brass or white plastic front sights. Then the top shooters dry fire and otherwise put lots of rounds through them. And oh yeah. You probably want two, cause all that fine tuning prematurely wears the guns out, so you need a spare. Some have three. One to shoot, one spare and one in the shop being repaired.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check