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Thread: looking to use this PID

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    looking to use this PID

    I have two pots that I want to put PIDs on. a lee 10 LB and a Seco pot that I have had for years.
    The Seco has never worked right. I think the Thermostat had failed and that is why the old guy sold it to me. It wont cycle and stays on. It looks to be a good pot to use with a PID.
    I am looking at this one On eBay,

    ebay link for PID Model: TA4-RNR deleted by moderator.

    Sorry about the long link.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Mel W.
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 04-22-2019 at 12:07 PM. Reason: ebay link removed

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    There is alot of info about proper pid to use on the site.
    On the Saeco I would do away with the thermostat and hook the pid directly to the heating element. That does away with a lot of wire terminals which are problems.

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
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    I have looked at a lot of the threads here. Just trying to get some fedback on this unit.
    Thanks for looking.
    Mel W.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master mattw's Avatar
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    You will want the SNR. The RNR only drives a relay, the SNR drives a solid state relay. The TA4 is a pretty good unit, mine lasted 5 years with heavy use. The SSR failed and took out the driver in mine.

  5. #5
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattw View Post
    You will want the SNR. The RNR only drives a relay, the SNR drives a solid state relay. The TA4 is a pretty good unit, mine lasted 5 years with heavy use. The SSR failed and took out the driver in mine.
    Thanks for that info. Funny that it is bundled wit a SSR.
    Thanks
    Mel W.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master mattw's Avatar
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    Yeah, have noticed that a couple of times. I am not sure it would work well, the voltage going to the SSR is variable or can be variable depending on your config. I think the voltage required to turn on a relay may be to high for the SSR. My SSR's want around 3 volts to turn on and most of the relay output units put out 12 volts to run the relay.

  7. #7
    Boolit Man
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    I sent the seller a question about this. We will see what he says. I also looked at the photos and saw a set of terminals marked SSR. This is all new to me. I have been reading and trying to get a handel on what I need.
    I will let the board know what the seller says.
    Thanks
    Mel

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    You also should get a K type TC not a PT100
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  9. #9
    Boolit Master mattw's Avatar
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    Yes, K type work very well. If you look around you will find them in the 4 to 6 inch range with a threaded base. I made a small metal part that fits under one of the pot mounting screws and holds the sensor off the bottom and sides. The probe needs to be in the liquid and not touching the pot sides or bottom or it will not read accurately. I usually look for 1000 degree probes, a little headroom in the pot.

    I think Mypin has a unit that does one relay and 1 ssr, but one would want to be really sure which you have. If memory serves the SNR model is 1 channel ssr, 1 channel nothing and a relay output for alarm. They are hard to find documentation for the part numbers. I think the RNR is 1 relay channel, one open channel and a relay for an alarm driver. They do make an SSR with 2 ssr channels and a relay for alarm. This is all from memory, so take it for what it is worth.

    I have found the auto tune to work very well on them and the menu structure is more intuitive than the Inkbird. The Inkbird does seem to struggle to hold temps for me. I have finally managed to tune the one Inkbird that I have and it is working much better.

  10. #10
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Depending on your level of knowledge with PID's, I'd recommend spending a few more dollars, than the cheapest that Ebay has to offer ...I explain why in this thread...see post #8
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4298740
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  11. #11
    Boolit Man
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    Here is the kit I bought.Click image for larger version. 

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    The second photo is the box and long thermocouple I got to add to it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Still need the power connectors for 110 in and out as well as hook up wire and the terminal block.
    This project may take a while as i am going back and forth between Calif and Nv.

    Thanks for looking.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy 44magLeo's Avatar
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    When I built mine I used a metal cash box. Had several I got over the years. The kind you see people use at yard sales and such.
    I mounted the PID on the front. Mounted two switches on the front. One is power on through the PID, the other bypasses the PID. I use the bypass to get things warmed up then switch to the PID for casting.
    I wired the power in with a heavy extension cord, just cut the outlets off. Wired the power out to the single outlet. Temp probe wired to PID.
    SSR bolted to inside of box.
    I wind up the power cord and temp probe and store inside the box. So when closed it makes it tidy.
    To hold the probe I twisted a piece of heavy wire, copper ground out of ten gauge house wire, coat hanger will work too, around a Phillips Head screwdriver. Left one end of this coil out to bend a loop into. Hooked this loop under one of the screws on top of the pot with the coil pointing up.
    When in use I open box, pull out power cord and temp probe. Plug the pot into the outlet on the box. Fire it up with the bypass switch. Once hot enough I slide the probe down through the coil of wire into the lead. Flip switches so PID takes over.
    Works well. I can also use the same PID for other tasks. Such as running the toaster oven for powder coated items.
    Leo

  13. #13
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    I have built several so far . I like using plastic ammo boxes. they are not conductive , will not rust, flip up top for easy access and have plenty of room
    readout, on/off switch in front receptacles and T-couples out the long side
    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

    Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    PULSAR night vision and thermal dealer !!!
    PM me for a good deal

    I am not crazy my mom had me tested

    Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
    and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!

  14. #14
    Boolit Mold
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    That's a brilliant idea! I would love to see some pictures seeing I'm shopping around for the components for my PID.

  15. #15
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have 2 for smokers and 1 for a lead pot
    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

    Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    PULSAR night vision and thermal dealer !!!
    PM me for a good deal

    I am not crazy my mom had me tested

    Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
    and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!

  16. #16
    Boolit Man
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    Smoke4320
    That works! Cool job.

  17. #17
    Boolit Man
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    I like the coat hanger idea. It would make god bracket. Thanks!

  18. #18
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    Yes the plastic ammo boxes are cheap too. Like the built in handle for moving around
    I wrap the power cord and the t couple around the handle for storage.
    Theres enough room i can get my big mitts in there and work and not worry about shorting something out

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have 2 for smokers and 1 for a lead pot
    Smoke, could I see pictures of the inside? I'm just trying to figure out the SSR and heatsink mounting.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
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    Not sure if this will help. SSR on top of the heat sink with a THIN layer of heat transfer grease between them. Sink can be mounted on side or bottom of box, it's fins dissipate the heat of the SSR. Just a homemade box on mine with vent holes on back. I also prefer crimped soldered connections EXCEPT on the TC leads where that should not be done without special spade tips.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check