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Thread: Sizing brass cases for jackets.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    Sizing brass cases for jackets.

    I have two resizing dies for the two types of brass I use for jackets. Both are from different die makers. One for .308 family for .458 and the other .223 cases for .357 max rimless AR's. However both share the same shortfall, I feed the first case through and it resizes, however it doesn't completely pass through the reducer and the next case's based sometimes catches the previous month and causes a jam that causes some trouble. My thought are the case is completely clear the reduced prior to inserting the next case, which causes me to think the punch should be longer, because I've tried everything I can except longer punch. But longer punches could cause some flex, maybe. Any thoughts are highly welcome.
    Thanks,
    Bill

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I had the same problem so I had a longer punch made and it fixed problem. For the two sizers you mention I doubt if there was any noticeable flex. Regards Stephen

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    I have overcome that issue by having a short length of punch, pushing the case through then starting the short punch on top the punch mounted on the ram, and push some more.
    Yeah, a pain. Do that for a long session and the wheels start turning, where is the section of die that does the reducing? Hmmm, longer punch? Shorter die?
    Gee! I spent 4000 bucks on a lathe! Haven't got to that project yet!
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by clodhopper View Post
    I have overcome that issue by having a short length of punch, pushing the case through then starting the short punch on top the punch mounted on the ram, and push some more.
    Yeah, a pain. Do that for a long session and the wheels start turning, where is the section of die that does the reducing? Hmmm, longer punch? Shorter die?
    Gee! I spent 4000 bucks on a lathe! Haven't got to that project yet!
    Well,well,well looks I have the same lathe situation, however you have given me an idea. Is a grade 8 bolt too hard to drill and tap the head???

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    I drilled a un annealed grade 8 bolt yesterday with a gold colored (Tin-Ni?) high speed steel drill. 1/2"bolt, 3/16 hole. 450 rpm, dark cutting oil, it went well.
    Have not tapped a grade 8 bolt, give it a try, a high speed steel tap would be much better than a hardened steel tap.
    If you break your tap, you are only out an easily replaced bolt and tap.

    Grade 5 bolts are good machining, the material is not gummy like cheap bolts and iron pipe, then not as hard as grade 8.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    I size 45acp for 458 and 380acp to make 9mm. I set the die up so that the brass gets pushed into the die about 1/4". I then withdraw the die and put a ball bearing or a short dowel pin on top of the punch, then push the brass the rest of the way through. As long as the brass is far enough into the die after the 2nd stroke, there's not a problem.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by tiger762 View Post
    I size 45acp for 458 and 380acp to make 9mm. I set the die up so that the brass gets pushed into the die about 1/4". I then withdraw the die and put a ball bearing or a short dowel pin on top of the punch, then push the brass the rest of the way through. As long as the brass is far enough into the die after the 2nd stroke, there's not a problem.
    Buddy:
    My sizing is for cases cut a little bit longer than 9mm and 45acp. because I'm making as close to fmj with hollow tip 200gr and over, the only way to push through is with a little longer punch, I think because the die is heat treated and nitrate coated so trimming the die may be a problem.

    clodhopper:
    I think I'll try grade 5 1/4 20 bolts since I have a shell holder punch with that thread, standard grade may not with stand the repeat ability of a 3" rod??? I only have Home Depot/Lowes 1/4 20 taps and dies which may not up stand the grade 8. Tomorrow will tell the tail if the lathe is accessible, winter storage you, know. It was suggested that 38 special derimed may be possible be an alternative. However I have thousands more .556 than.38 this wild catting is very interesting

  8. #8
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I made a redneck case/jacket sizing die and top punch, for sizing 5.7 brass for 30 cal jackets.
    I used a 280rem FL die and a modified 1/4" x 4" long Grade 8 bolt as a punch.
    I only sized a couple hundred cases, but the bolt seemed plenty sturdy.
    I had only borrowed the dies to experiment with, and returned the set after I swaged 100 or so.

    see post #43, #49, #59
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...l=1#post938343
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Now you got me piqued. The internal capacity for the 9mm/223 cases wont match, and I don't have experience with the 223 yet. But a 9mm case makes a 200g 40 cal. projectile that is almost FMJ. How is your bases turning out. For my .400"s all I do is drop in a core and then into the die, real eazy. But when I mash them all the way to .308" it's way more difficult to get good bases.

    Alas, I don't have a Lathe.

    Watching ...
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

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