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Thread: 310 shop

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Nov 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    I hope lyman doesn't stop making them completely that would be a real loss
    I fear your hopes have already been dashed Andy. If my suspicions are correct, actual manufacture of 310 stuff has probably been discontinued by Lyman for a while. They’ve just been selling off the leftovers. Go back and look at the shrinking lists of available die sets for the last few years and see whether you agree.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Catshooter View Post
    Scott,

    You made a 310 sized tap at .609 or so right? Not five oh nine? The middle (usual) 310 are .610. I think.

    I don't think you could get the fifteen thousandths or so you'd need to squeeze a 5/8 die down to for it to work. That's quite a bit. To tighten a die, you open the locking screw. The locking screw pushes the die open. Doesn't clamp it shut.


    Cat
    You are correct, .609/.610 tap.

    I've never looked to see what taking tension off the screw resulted in. I would assume you would have to remove the screw and tighten the die down in the holder.

    You are probably spot on with your analysis, collapsing a die .015 is huge.
    Scott

    You can easily judge the character of others by how they treat those who they think can do nothing for them.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    As a novice machinist (whose lathe was made in about 1950 and has pick gears instead of quick change) I have to ask, do most modern lathes have the capability to set up and cut 30 tpi? Of course turning major diameter to .609 would be no problem...

    I’m still wondering about the hardening step. Would it be needed at all for a die that would see moderate use mounted in tools that lack the physical strength to exert a whole lot of pressure. Inquiring but poorly informed minds want to know!

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    These are at best neck sizing dies so, no, hardening steel would not be necessary. A good polish, yes, but we are not swaging bullets here.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
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    560
    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    As a novice machinist (whose lathe was made in about 1950 and has pick gears instead of quick change) I have to ask, do most modern lathes have the capability to set up and cut 30 tpi? Of course turning major diameter to .609 would be no problem...

    I’m still wondering about the hardening step. Would it be needed at all for a die that would see moderate use mounted in tools that lack the physical strength to exert a whole lot of pressure. Inquiring but poorly informed minds want to know!

    Froggie
    30 tpi is no problem for CNC lathes, but most lathes with quick change gearboxes do not have the capability to do 30 tpi. With pick gears, it would be easier to accomplish, though it might require a gear or two that you don't have. I think that it would be very hard to wear out a die made with prehardened 4140 or a modern rifle barrel that has been removed because of accuracy deficit or for a caliber change. Since the greatest force required is for neck sizing, just be sure that that part of the die is very smooth.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy 44magLeo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Lebanon, NY
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    393
    I have a steel set of handles that are marked 30-06. The hole in the handle where the case goes into is way larger than a 30-06 case is.
    The hole measures .560 or so with my calipers. A bit bigger than the .473 I get on a 30-06 case.
    I was thinking, would it be possible for some with a lathe to ream this hole large enough to cut threads the rest of the way through the handle?
    Once the hole was threaded could they could counter sink the hole so you could thread in the adapter die? While doing all this you would need to counter sink the hole for the locking screw of course.
    If so, how much do you think it might cost?
    I have this set of handles in the 310 swap thread, no takers as of yet.
    Leo

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44magLeo View Post
    I have a steel set of handles that are marked 30-06. The hole in the handle where the case goes into is way larger than a 30-06 case is.
    The hole measures .560 or so with my calipers. A bit bigger than the .473 I get on a 30-06 case.
    I was thinking, would it be possible for some with a lathe to ream this hole large enough to cut threads the rest of the way through the handle?
    Once the hole was threaded could they could counter sink the hole so you could thread in the adapter die? While doing all this you would need to counter sink the hole for the locking screw of course.
    If so, how much do you think it might cost?
    I have this set of handles in the 310 swap thread, no takers as of yet.
    Leo
    You need a mill, not a lathe for the job you propose. In fact, with the right vise, you could probably do it on a drill press. Then you need to find a tap for the proprietary thread to hold the adaptor. The only downside is that the little “bumps on the handle opposite the handle still mark and wear more quickly than the later tools with the spring steel “fingers” to take the wear from the pc die’s punch.

    One thing to consider is that the existing 0.560” hole may be bigger than the threads of the factory adaptor and you may have to make custom bushings (adaptors) or sleeve the existing hole to start. I am out of the country right now away from all my reloading stuff so I’m working from memory and speculating as well.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check