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Thread: copper water pipe fittings

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Lynn Ma
    Posts
    827
    I redid some of my copper lines and sweated the connections,their not as pro looking as a plumber but no leaks. Prep work is key clean the copper to where it shines use a tin based flux and you're good to go.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Conroe TEXAS
    Posts
    671
    [QUOTE=tunnug;4628901]My SIL's house blew the main water line under a porch, plumbing co. quoted her 4K to repair\replace, between two BIL's and myself we replaced the line with 1" pex and used sharkbites for all connections, cost was $150 and so far it has been 12 years with no problems.[/QUOTE
    Way to go tunnug, I had a similar experience as maintenance manager for the Woodlands FBC a few years back . We had a drain in a remodeled room in a closet and sewer gas was making the SS class upset.. They checked with a plumber who said he would have to tunnel under the slab. Estimate for the job was $10,000.. When I found out about it, told my boss to let me handle it and that was OK.
    Put a rubber pipe plug with washers each side and a bolt to tighten, which expanded the rubber closing the pipe, replace the cover with a round brass plate and shut the closet door. My preference for copper pipe is solder. The solder that I use has no silver or lead and melts as the copper turns reddish colored maybe 1200 degrees. Silver solder is much better and more expensive. I have a neat trick I will share with youall. When you have a leak in a copper line as in a airhandler in the AC that is in a place where you can only see the front of the pipe and the hole is in the back in tight quarters, cut a larger tubing piece 1 1/2 inches and split, straighten the sides of the tubing in a U shape and form it to the same size as the tubing with the leak over a steel rod the same size. Clean all surfaces well, slide the U shape on the tubing and squeeze the sides of the tube around leaky tubing with the crack facing you. Flux and solder the ends and the front crack making sure the ends are well soldered. That's it. Pros tell you that the leak is unrepairable and you need a new core complete. Nope.

  3. #23
    Banned

    Blammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    10,427
    shark bites are legal fitting for permanent work here.

    they work well, just pay attention to the depth to make sure you seat them fully.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    New Market, Iowa
    Posts
    1,472
    I am partial to PVC myself. Durable, easy to work with, and inexpensive.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check