I redid some of my copper lines and sweated the connections,their not as pro looking as a plumber but no leaks. Prep work is key clean the copper to where it shines use a tin based flux and you're good to go.
I redid some of my copper lines and sweated the connections,their not as pro looking as a plumber but no leaks. Prep work is key clean the copper to where it shines use a tin based flux and you're good to go.
[QUOTE=tunnug;4628901]My SIL's house blew the main water line under a porch, plumbing co. quoted her 4K to repair\replace, between two BIL's and myself we replaced the line with 1" pex and used sharkbites for all connections, cost was $150 and so far it has been 12 years with no problems.[/QUOTE
Way to go tunnug, I had a similar experience as maintenance manager for the Woodlands FBC a few years back . We had a drain in a remodeled room in a closet and sewer gas was making the SS class upset.. They checked with a plumber who said he would have to tunnel under the slab. Estimate for the job was $10,000.. When I found out about it, told my boss to let me handle it and that was OK.
Put a rubber pipe plug with washers each side and a bolt to tighten, which expanded the rubber closing the pipe, replace the cover with a round brass plate and shut the closet door. My preference for copper pipe is solder. The solder that I use has no silver or lead and melts as the copper turns reddish colored maybe 1200 degrees. Silver solder is much better and more expensive. I have a neat trick I will share with youall. When you have a leak in a copper line as in a airhandler in the AC that is in a place where you can only see the front of the pipe and the hole is in the back in tight quarters, cut a larger tubing piece 1 1/2 inches and split, straighten the sides of the tubing in a U shape and form it to the same size as the tubing with the leak over a steel rod the same size. Clean all surfaces well, slide the U shape on the tubing and squeeze the sides of the tube around leaky tubing with the crack facing you. Flux and solder the ends and the front crack making sure the ends are well soldered. That's it. Pros tell you that the leak is unrepairable and you need a new core complete. Nope.
shark bites are legal fitting for permanent work here.
they work well, just pay attention to the depth to make sure you seat them fully.
I am partial to PVC myself. Durable, easy to work with, and inexpensive.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |