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Thread: New Ruger Revolvers Introduced

  1. #241
    Boolit Master
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    Please understand my comment was in regard to the people (OEM) that makes or repairs them and then places them in a box for sale or return for us to consume. On top of that $50 to fix a clearly bad job, old mans neck gets sore from all the head shaking. I wonder how much one would cost if they shipped out like we expect them to be out of the box? Look at all the fun we have making them better though!

  2. #242
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well, I ran across the freeway to Cabela's and picked one up in black. Brought it home and started just cycling the action. It sometimes would only go to half cock and no further. At that point I could turn the cylinder to the next notch but it wouldn't unlock the hammer. It would just be stuck. If I lowered the hammer it would maybe then work for a couple of times, then lock up again. There is no rhyme or reason to it. I inspected the star on the back of the cylinder and it looks great. Nothing I can see there. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm going to be pretty upset if I have to send back a firearm I haven't even shot yet.

  3. #243
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by modified5 View Post
    Well, I ran across the freeway to Cabela's and picked one up in black. Brought it home and started just cycling the action. It sometimes would only go to half cock and no further. At that point I could turn the cylinder to the next notch but it wouldn't unlock the hammer. It would just be stuck. If I lowered the hammer it would maybe then work for a couple of times, then lock up again. There is no rhyme or reason to it. I inspected the star on the back of the cylinder and it looks great. Nothing I can see there. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm going to be pretty upset if I have to send back a firearm I haven't even shot yet.

    I learned with mine playing with it the other day that you have to turn the cylinder back-and-forth for it to lock into place before shooting after loading the cylinder. Apparently there’s some free play in it that you have to slide The cylinder up and down until it clicks and locks into place. Mine was doing the same thing yours did until I figured it out.

  4. #244
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    I learned with mine playing with it the other day that you have to turn the cylinder back-and-forth for it to lock into place before shooting after loading the cylinder. Apparently there’s some free play in it that you have to slide The cylinder up and down until it clicks and locks into place. Mine was doing the same thing yours did until I figured it out.
    The thing with mine though, is if I lock it into place, the hammer still doesn't go to full cock. I have to lower the hammer then recock it. Almost like the hand is binding on the back of the cylinder. When I took the cylinder out and cocked it multiple times, the action worked normally. No bind at all in the frame. I haven't checked end play or for up and down play in the cylinder or the pin yet. I just put it in my safe for now. Hopefully I will get it out to shoot by this weekend and see what it does.

  5. #245
    Boolit Buddy oldhenry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by modified5 View Post
    The thing with mine though, is if I lock it into place, the hammer still doesn't go to full cock. I have to lower the hammer then recock it. Almost like the hand is binding on the back of the cylinder. When I took the cylinder out and cocked it multiple times, the action worked normally. No bind at all in the frame. I haven't checked end play or for up and down play in the cylinder or the pin yet. I just put it in my safe for now. Hopefully I will get it out to shoot by this weekend and see what it does.
    Try removing the base pin to make sure the plunger on the end is operating freely (the transfer bar may be hanging up on the rear of the firing pin).

  6. #246
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldhenry View Post
    Try removing the base pin to make sure the plunger on the end is operating freely (the transfer bar may be hanging up on the rear of the firing pin).
    You nailed it. I got it to stick and could see the transfer bar hung up on the firing pin. I pushed the base pin back and it freed up. The plunger was free. I can push the base pin back and it never jams up, but if I let it just sit where it wants to, it will eventually hem the gun up. It's almost is if the groove in the base pin it too large or it was cut too far back not allowing the plunger to stay in contact with the transfer bar enough. I think I'm going to call Ruger and see what they have to say about it.

  7. #247
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Keep us posted. Still waiting for my grips I think Midway said they were going to be here tomorrow.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 01-21-2020 at 09:58 PM.

  8. #248
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Wow my grips came in today for midway USA. I was surprise when they came in a bubble pack envelope because I know Ruger packages their grips in a plastic container. When I open them I was pleasantly surprised that the grips were not damaged. They weren’t even wrapped separately if they were sandwiched together in a Ziploc bag. I took them out and was amazed at how pretty they were. They had some glue around one of the emblems that I rubbed off with my finger after about a half a minute a trying. I then took out the screw that was packaged with them and found that half of his head was missing like someone over torqued the screw. I installed the grips to see what they look like and it looks like there’s a pretty good gap on the end between the frame and the teal under the grips. They still look pretty and I didn’t want to call midway USA because it would take an active God to get somebody on the phone to just get a screw replacement so I figured I would call Ruger direct and ask for a screw since it was their product. When I got a hold of Ruger the customer service rep told me for some reason they do not warranty the so-called Ruger parts they get sold through midway USA. I Was basically told thses grips were a knock off of their branded item with a Ruger emblem glued to it. The Ruger rep told me the grip shouldn’t fit like that and be more flush. Ruger’s were on back order until next week and I already have an order placed through them so I don’t have to pay shipping so in the process it’ll save me four dollars to get them from Ruger and I’ll just send these back to midway. My question is is when I look at the Ruger grips there’s a gap on my factory grips as well just not as bad. So in everybody’s opinion are these really Ruger grips or not? I would assume they should be a little bit longer on the tail end. I sure like the looks of them but I think I’m gonna wait and get them directly from Ruger which she said they’re going to be off backorder on 30 January.











    Here are the factory grips with a gap as well but they’re at least closer to the frame...



    I would assume this is pretty common with Ruger grips?

    It didn’t bother me that much until I saw the stripped screw head and figured since it was a double negative maybe I better hold my breath and wait till Ruger sends me a set to compare.

  9. #249
    Boolit Buddy
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    That’s exactly how the OEM grips I took off my Single Six fit my Wrangler. I think the Wrangler grip frame is slightly larger than the typical Single Six.

  10. #250
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Ruger list these rips on their website for the wrangler so I would assume close counts.

    I figured much so I just need another screw then. I realize nothing is perfect and these grips look really nice and just have some space between them and the frame. I can tolerate the grip fitment it’s just that stripped screw will drive me nuts.

    Midway don’t sell the screw by itself and I would have to exchange the grips to get a replacement screw. I also called Ruger back to see if I get a different operator which I did. I was told those grips were made for Ruger and not by Ruger. They said they’d send me a single six screw in stainless but don’t know if it’s gonna be the right one. Guess I’ll find out in a week. Worst case scenario is I’ll just have to send them back for An exchange.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 01-22-2020 at 09:00 PM.

  11. #251
    Boolit Buddy JoeJames's Avatar
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    Did the poor man's trigger job. Dropped it from the standard Ruger trigger pull of 4 1/2 pounds - 5 pounds down to 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 pounds. Found that it was not actually shooting two - three inches low at 15 yards but was actually to point of aim. Shooting CCI standard velocity and Remington bucket of bullets plain lead round nose.
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    You Can Vote Your Way Into Socialism, But You Have To Shoot Your Way Out of it.

  12. #252
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJames View Post
    Did the poor man's trigger job. Dropped it from the standard Ruger trigger pull of 4 1/2 pounds - 5 pounds down to 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 pounds. Found that it was not actually shooting two - three inches low at 15 yards but was actually to point of aim. Shooting CCI standard velocity and Remington bucket of bullets plain lead round nose.
    Sweet good to know! I think a lot of people that are reviewing these probably don’t have a lot of trigger time On pistols and didn’t do a poor mans trigger Job to lighten it. I’m sure there are some of them don’t shoot to point of aim. But I blame Hard trigger pull and where my finger rests on the Trigger. I was blaming my new vaquero last year for shooting about 2” left after I did a poor man trigger job. I got some more trigger time and started hitting dead center with it at 25 yards. I also have the front post about a third of the way lower than the rear sight. I don’t want to file it because they’re light cast loads and might want to put some hunting loads through it one day. The members here sent me One of those excuse circles why boolits don’t hit dead center. The wheel said I didn’t have enough finger on my trigger. I slid in a little more “finger” on my trigger and I started hitting dead center most shots. I still have a few that wander a little to the left but most shots are now on center than left.

    I’ve been doing a lot of reading after wrangler owners have performed a poor man’s trigger job their point of aim issues were fixed.

    Once my screw comes from Ruger this week I’ll get my wood grips on and actually go out and shoot mine.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 01-27-2020 at 12:36 PM.

  13. #253
    Boolit Buddy JoeJames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    Sweet good to know! I think a lot of people that are reviewing these probably don’t have a lot of trigger time On pistols and didn’t do a poor mans trigger Job to lighten it. I’m sure there are some of them don’t shoot to point of aim. But I blame Hard trigger pull and where my finger rests on the Trigger. I was blaming my new vaquero last year for shooting about 2” left after I did a poor man trigger job. I got some more trigger time and started hitting dead center with it at 25 yards. I also have the front post about a third of the way lower than the rear sight. I don’t want to file it because they’re light cast loads and might want to put some hunting loads through it one day. The members here sent me One of those excuse circles why boolits don’t hit dead center. The wheel said I didn’t have enough finger on my trigger. I slid in a little more “finger” on my trigger and I started hitting dead center most shots. I still have a few that wander a little to the left but most shots are now on center than left.

    I’ve been doing a lot of reading after wrangler owners have performed a poor man’s trigger job their point of aim issues were fixed.

    Once my screw comes from Ruger this week I’ll get my wood grips on and actually go out and shoot mine.
    Might notice I was shooting about an inch to the right. I am putting that down to trigger position. Weather was too bad for me to use my MTM pistol rest; so I was just shooting from a knee rest on my porch steps. Let me know how those grips fit.
    You Can Vote Your Way Into Socialism, But You Have To Shoot Your Way Out of it.

  14. #254
    Boolit Mold Blind Dog's Avatar
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    You can find them for $200 fairly easily. Steel cylinder and alloy frame. One source said zinc which I thought odd.

  15. #255
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJames View Post
    Might notice I was shooting about an inch to the right. I am putting that down to trigger position. Weather was too bad for me to use my MTM pistol rest; so I was just shooting from a knee rest on my porch steps. Let me know how those grips fit.
    The rosewood Grips are definitely wider than factory grips so they fit my hands better. I know they only had two pairs left at Midway USA the other day and my buddy bought one pair so I’m assuming they’re out now. For $41 to the door imo it sure made the pistol look like what I referred to as a “real” cowboy pistol vs a toy. They definitely don’t have a perfect fit and the screw is buggered up but I still like the looks of them. Hopefully the replacement screw shows up tomorrow from Ruger and it fits fine. I’m punishing myself not to shoot until I get the correct screw for the grips.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 01-27-2020 at 10:16 PM.

  16. #256
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I got the replacement screw from Ruger today and it fits fine. I was going to return the grips to midway and get a set directly from Ruger but Im sure they’re gonna be exact same Dimensions and measurements so I’ll just stick with the ones I have. Like I posted above they’re a little bit shorter then my factory grips figment of the frame...and my factory grips never fit close to the frame as well. You can see in the bottom of the first photo how much shorter the grips are...the factory black plastic grips are maybe an 1/8” long and don’t run all the way to the frame edge either. But they look really nice and feel good in the hand. They are wider and rounder so it imo definitely feels like a different pistol. I just like the looks of them more than anything. For a $40 upgrade in my opinion it makes it look like a whole different pistol and not like a plastic toy.






    I’ll have to actually go out and shoot it now!
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 01-29-2020 at 02:22 PM.

  17. #257
    Boolit Buddy JoeJames's Avatar
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    Were the new grips advertised for the Ruger Single Six?
    You Can Vote Your Way Into Socialism, But You Have To Shoot Your Way Out of it.

  18. #258
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJames View Post
    Were the new grips advertised for the Ruger Single Six?
    They are advertised on Ruger‘s website to fit in the single six, wrangler, and I believe the Blackhawk. Ruger lists them as for single actions without lock. Part number 70046.
    I don’t believe anybody manufactures grips exclusively for the wranglers yet so I would assume no matter who I get grips from there all going to fit about the same.

    Here’s the link...

    http://shopruger.com/Single-Action-R...uctinfo/70046/

  19. #259
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Took mine out today and shot it for the first time. I need to get some practice in that’s for sure. I can say at 10 yards it hits dead on as long as I hold it steady. I learned that if I don’t put enough finger on the trigger I shoot left. I had fun and shot two groups with it at first to get a feel and they were maybe about 2 1/2 to 3 inches or so, nothing impressive, just to see how it felt my hand. The third group I took my time in the first three shots I had a black mark the size of a dime and then I got excited and pulled the next two shots. It is easy for me not to put enough finger on it like im target shooting and my group will pull to the left a couple inches. As long as I get enough finger on the trigger I can hit a tin Campbell (family size,lol) Soup can with every shot in my cylinder at 20 yards. It’s going to be a good open sight practice pistol for me. I am actually a lot more accurate with my Ruger vaquero but I have way more trigger time on it. I then took my Browning Buck Mark target out with my ultra dot on it and peppered that can with every shot as fast as I could pull the trigger. I’m used to shooting that pistol as I’ve had it for decades. That wrangler will make a good trap line pistol if I ever get my butt out and set some.

  20. #260
    Boolit Master

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    I got mine out for the first time today too. Shot CCI Minimags. Fired from a sand bag at 25 yards. Group sizes were right around 1 1/2 inch for 6 rounds. Mine shot about 1 1/2 inch low. Probably would have shot better groups IF I could see the sights! Darn bifocals!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check