Rust blue is not like hot blue that is completely dependent on the surface gloss of the metal to produce the gloss on the oxide layer overlaying the metal. With hot blue whatever finish the metal is taken to is going to be pretty much what we will have wnen finished because that is pretty much used just as it comes out of the tank so whatever surface gloss, or lack of, that we have at that point is all we are going to get. With rust blue the surface is abraded slightly as the layers build up and is thus smoothed somewhat much like sanding between coats of paint, of course by far we are only removing the soft oxide residues but still as the progressive layers are added the surface is leveled out over the microscopic valleys and peaks of even the 320 or so grit abrasive scratches so whats the point of going any finer? From talking with folks who have a lot of experience using this process and from my own limited experience with trial and error it seems that about 320 grit is optimal and polishing the surface past that is counterproductive and does little or nothing to increase gloss, it does however cause streaking and blotching problems and makes it MUCH harder to get dark and even coloring. When I was first experimenting with the rust method I even went so far as to blue 3 flat pieces polished from 240 grit to 600 grit (I even tried 1000 grit once but that didn't work well at all), there was almost no difference at all between the 240 and 360 grit surfaces in either color or gloss but the 600 grit took several more cycles and never did get as dark as the other two, gloss was no better at all than with the courser grits. It has become quite apparent to me that anything finer than about 320 to 360 grit is not only a waste of time and effort but can actually result in a less attractive finish.