MidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Titan ReloadingInline Fabrication
RepackboxLee PrecisionWideners

Donate Now Goal amount for this year: 6000 USD, Received: 5505 USD (92%)
Our Annual server fund drive is going on now! This donation drive helps fund Cast Boolits for an entire year, and helps support our 2nd amendment rights! You can donate by Paypal by clicking the DONATE button. Or by Cash / Check / MO to the address below:

Willy Snyder
PO Box 2732
Pocatello, ID 83206
****Due to overwhelming e-mails, I will be very slow in updating this list. Please bear with me!****


Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: BP spiller and burr

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    texas city tx.
    Posts
    199

    BP spiller and burr

    i'm thinking of getting a spiller and Burr BP pistol (NIB) does anyone have any experience with these?and yes, it's in 36 caliber.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    1,347
    I have a very old one. They're brass framed copies of a Whitney. Nice guns, you gotta keep the loads low due to the brass. Who makes the one you're looking at?
    Here's my Spiller & Burr above an original Whitney .36.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Picture 012.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	32.7 KB 
ID:	240010  

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy arcticap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    435
    I don't have one, but from what I can glean the S&B is different from the Remington in it's breakdown for removing the cylinder.
    There is a protruding, flat, "wingnut-like switch" on the side of the frame which has to be turned 180 degrees to unlock the arbor which is a part of the lever arm and bullet ram.
    Once unlocked, the lever is dropped down then pulled forward and out. The cylinder can then be removed to the right.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Pietta_Spiller__Burr_Revolver_3_700_442.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	131.0 KB 
ID:	240016
    Last edited by arcticap; 04-17-2019 at 02:50 AM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    1,440
    I had one 20yrs ago. I liked it well enough. But in Cowboy Shooting, ya need a matched pair. And I preferred the COLT Navy. So I sold it and bought another COLT Navy.
    I HATE auto-correct


    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    514
    i have had one for a # of yrs. 12 to be exact. stretching of the frame was found out to be caused by forcing very over sized balls into the cylinder using the loading rod under the barrel over the years. what re leaves that problem is to take the cylinder out and load it and put it back in. so load with the rite DIA. RB'S and you should get many years of service. so get it and enjoy.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    1,347
    How does that stretch the frame? It might bend the loading arm. Shooting over powered loads can loosen a brass frame, or damage the recoil shield.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	S4020010.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	16.3 KB 
ID:	240018  

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,401
    Would have thought the smaller 20 grn load with a ball was small enough to keep the recoil shield from getting battered.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    1,347
    My Spiller & Burr was damaged before I got it. It's a tough question as to how old this gun really is. "Knowledgeable people" (note the quotation marks) have told me they thought it is an original, but I think it's a great defarb job done by a knowledgeable, skilled, clever person. I should start a thread on this gun and ask opinions about its age.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    MI (summer) - AZ (winter)
    Posts
    3,483
    I've never owned one but have shot several of them that others owned. They're a decent shttoign revolver with a nice history behind them. The repros aren't 100% detail accurate but the "spirit" is certainly there. Like any brasser, just don't load them up heavy and you'll be just fine. Like any C & B - you'll probably find that it shoots high but the S & B is an easy one to switch the front sight out of and put a taller on in - use a piece of brazing rod - turn the base down in the drill press with a file and soft solder in after you've removed the one that came in the barrel. IIRC, Pietta is the only one making them and supply is sketchy - I'm thinking of adding one myself as I love Navy caliber single actions. As far as ball size - all you need is to measure and find a size the will allow a lead ring when you seat the ball int he chamber - my guess is that a .375 would probably be sufficient on the S & B but measure the chargers to make sure. Trying to cram and oversize ball in to a chamber, reforming it to a conical as you do so and over stressing the loading lever is never a good idea - let common sense prevail.

    Good luck and if you get one, I'd love to see you post what you think of it.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    5,571
    If you stick with 20 grains of fffg and a round ball you should get over 5000 rounds down the tube easy, way more than most people will shoot in a life time. My buddy is still shooting a REB 1851 he bought from Navy Arms in 1969 and it has been shot at least the 5000 rounds, mostly with home made ctg 17 grains and a round ball.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    texas city tx.
    Posts
    199
    Hi, Bedbugbilly, I"ve got the spiller and burr shot in now. it really likes 777 fake powder. I tried trippleFg and I'm not impressed with it at all. it seems to take the #10 caps. I had to adjust my powder measure to about 15gr's of 777. I'm getting a pretty impressive crack with it. and right now it's shooting about a foot high at 10 yards. I did run the plate rack twice in a row with it. I beveled the front of the cylinder holes so I['mnot shaving lead when I put the ball in.(remember lube between the wad and the ball.) I never had to clean the barrel but the cylinder pin had to be cleaned several times to keep the cylinder turning ok, its easier to load the cylinder out of the frame the way I'[m having to load the cylinder with a verable measuring gage. so I pour the powder and put a wad in each hole. reload the cylinder back into the frame(there's is a trick to it. very easy after you figure out the trick!) then use the rammer to put the wad hard on the powder, then grease the wad and ram the balls down. I capped it with # 10's and I"m ready to go.
    I picked up a as new 1851 navy Thursday with a 7 inch? barrel it shoots great with 28gr's of 777, behind a .44 ball(.454 ball) it was a deal I couldn't let go. I couldn't tell if it had been fired or not , but at $150.00 who cares? it only shoots about 9 inches high at 10 yards. and yes, both of these guns are pietta's.ok, but I still like ubertis.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    137
    Toot is correct, loading oversized balls will in fact bend a brass frame. That is exactly how my Remington came to an end (back in the 1980's). It also perfectly illustrates WHY the perimeter framed revolver isn't stronger than the Colt open top arbor system. You'll shear the leaver screws loading oversized balls in an O.T. before you bend the frame!! I've been posting this for years, the O.T. frame setup is very robust and compact. The perimeter or "top strap" frame is easier/cheaper to manufacture which is why it "won" as THE frame system to use . . . . not because of strength.

    Mike

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check