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Thread: Revolver experience needed

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by nun2kute View Post
    I put the trigger gauge to use on one of the 629's and came up with 3.5 lbs. That is about rite to me. The strain screw is tight but I have no idea how long its supposed to be, and the main spring on the mod. 25 doesn't look ... well, asymmetrical ? Correct ? It doesn't have a smooth arch to it, looks bent in one spot. So I will be ordering a new one along with a strain screw just to make sure it is proper length.
    You are on the right track. Please let us know how the main spring and strain screw swap out worked.
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
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    I have a 25-5 with a .45 Colt and a .45 ACP/Auto-Rim cylinder. No problems with the latter, but there were frequent light strikes/failures to fire with the former.

    The strain screw was already pretty tight, but I found that if I held the trigger back, I could turn the screw in another quarter turn. That seems to have fixed the problem; the gun fires fine with both cylinders now.

    The trigger pull doesn’t seem to be any heavier, and the spring doesn’t seem to be on the verge of breaking, so I guess it’s good.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Had a model 25 in 45 Colt, a few other Smith's. Strain screw and mainspring fix/return to factory sounds good. CCI primers should never be a problem UNLESS you are set up for 'GAMING' and accept reliability issues. Smoothing/polishing the rebound slide and maybe a lighter rebound spring helps a great deal without compromising reliability in almost all S&W revolvers.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I use CCI almost exclusively and in many S&W revolvers with no problems. Check the screw as suggested and be sure your primers are bottoming out in the case. I shoot CCI in my 1911 45 with lighter springs to function with very light SWC loads and using a 19# vs 23# hammer spring the primer has only a light hit but have yet to have one not fire in at least 20K rounds. You might also check firing pin protrusion on the revolver, as well as headspace on the 45 Colt cylinder. Neither is likely an issue but at least you have eliminated some variables.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Groo's Avatar
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    Groo here
    Some primer seaters get loose or out of adj...
    First thing, seat primer then rotate 180 degrees and seat again.
    I have had this problem with 2 different hand primer tools .
    They get loose and seat at an angle

  6. #26
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    gwpercle's Avatar
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    First strike = no fire and second strike = fire is the classic primer not completely seated in the pocket sign. As soon as I started priming off the press with a hand held priming tool and making sure the primers were all the way down into the pocket....that stuff stopped. Doesn't cost anything ... just try it .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    I had to shim the main spring on my 64, I used a strip of brass(came from a name plate from a bowling trophy)it has a bobed hammer and is DAO, suspect the lighter hammer needed more spring. Been in there for 5yrs and never had a problem. My 929 screw backed off by itself. Loctight

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    My Misadventure in Revolverland ... I finally got time to mess with my mess. I ordered and received a new main spring and strain screw. But being the tinker-butt that I am decided to try the primer shim trick just to say I did, also because the strain screw is definitely NOT original length. Someone has definitely altered original parts. Got'r all back together and the Trigger wont reset without assistance. When the trigger is released, it kinda hangs up and doesn't return all the way. So I thought maybe some dirt or carbon had got inside and was causing havoc, tore it down again and couldn't find anything out of place, so I abandoned that idea and tried to install the new main spring, and couldn't figure out how to do that without bending it. So I hammered the other one as flat as I could (still has a slight curve to it) and reinstalled it with the new strain screw. And trigger will not reset without assistance. So I am assuming the trigger reset spring has been altered too. (?) On the bright side, that was the first side plate I've ever taken off. Little scary at first, but I got through it. So, can I get a spring kit, or do I need to order them individually ? Or is there something else I'm not seeing and need to look at ?
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

  9. #29
    Boolit Master slughammer's Avatar
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    Lots of folks buy a spring kit that comes with a new mainspring and 3 different return springs. But you can buy return springs separately also.

    FYI I suspected that the return spring may have been cut. On a tuned gun I typically aim for half of the DA pull to come from the return spring to ensure proper reset. (DA = 8lb competition federal primers only, 10lb CCI/winchester, 12lb defense)
    Happiness is a couple of 38's and a bucket of ammo.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    (1) strain screw
    (2) if main spring isn't a smooth arc it's a problem. You can usually feel a funny over the hump when shooting DA. Once deformed they will snap at any time.
    (3) CCI primers have been known to have hard runs. Usually won't affect SAs but DAs set up light can have problems from misfires to ragged groups from un uniform ignition. I have only seen this in magnum pistol primers.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Your gun is somewhere around 30-40 years old...and shot how much...

    May need a new mainspring
    May need a new mainspring tension screw
    May need a new hammer if the firing pin is too worn
    May have a headspace issue

    The pull weight for a S&W on SA is usually very light and crisp. SA I have never had a problem with ANY make of primer or ammo in any Smith I have ever fired even with the strain screw was backed out...DA is another matter.

    If you don't know Smith smithing well then I would see if there is a Smith in your area who can service it... If you are handy then I would suggest getting this book...

    https://www.amazon.com/Revolvers-Sho...gateway&sr=8-1

    Bob

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    First off, I'd like to thank ya'll for your help. I received a new rebound slide spring replacing the one that came with the gun which was about a quarter inch short. I have a new main spring but have not installed it yet. Reinstalled the original one (to me) after hammering the kinks in it out as best I could. The two mainsprings I have appear to be the same length, but the new one is straight and my fingers wouldn't fight it into place so I just put the other one back in. SA trigger pull is now 3.25 Lbs. I fired one cylinder goofing off at work today with no problems. Really like the trigger pull much better now. And the dents in those six primers look deeper to me than the previous ones.

    @ RJM52 I like books, thanks for the link
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Isn't it nice when you can carry a gun to work and use it.
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  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    The big test is when you try DA...if you look the hammer releases before it is all the way back giving less momentum to the firing pin strike...

    I have settled on a 13# trigger return spring... It has nothing to do with hammer velocity and is the minimum I've found that one has reliable trigger return and smoother DA... You can get a test pack of springs from Brownells.. For a main spring I prefer the reliability of the standard factory spring....

    Bob

  15. #35
    Banned


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    with my relatively new 642 centennial, the trigger pull was about 14# but was not a real issue and staged well, and shot well. wanting a bit smoother trigger, i installed a wilson combat kit and now enjoy a 10# trigger that's much smoother than before, no problem setting off even cci primers, but still stages well for that pseudo single action feel.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy
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    I went up the canyon with my pup today and finished unloading that first 100 rounds I made, no issues. That was all SA. I'll have to play with the DA later after I get something cast or bought to continue my adventure. Seems pretty close to my 629's now. What I'm accustomed to.
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check