I have a 25-5 with a .45 Colt and a .45 ACP/Auto-Rim cylinder. No problems with the latter, but there were frequent light strikes/failures to fire with the former.
The strain screw was already pretty tight, but I found that if I held the trigger back, I could turn the screw in another quarter turn. That seems to have fixed the problem; the gun fires fine with both cylinders now.
The trigger pull doesn’t seem to be any heavier, and the spring doesn’t seem to be on the verge of breaking, so I guess it’s good.
Had a model 25 in 45 Colt, a few other Smith's. Strain screw and mainspring fix/return to factory sounds good. CCI primers should never be a problem UNLESS you are set up for 'GAMING' and accept reliability issues. Smoothing/polishing the rebound slide and maybe a lighter rebound spring helps a great deal without compromising reliability in almost all S&W revolvers.
I use CCI almost exclusively and in many S&W revolvers with no problems. Check the screw as suggested and be sure your primers are bottoming out in the case. I shoot CCI in my 1911 45 with lighter springs to function with very light SWC loads and using a 19# vs 23# hammer spring the primer has only a light hit but have yet to have one not fire in at least 20K rounds. You might also check firing pin protrusion on the revolver, as well as headspace on the 45 Colt cylinder. Neither is likely an issue but at least you have eliminated some variables.
Groo here
Some primer seaters get loose or out of adj...
First thing, seat primer then rotate 180 degrees and seat again.
I have had this problem with 2 different hand primer tools .
They get loose and seat at an angle
First strike = no fire and second strike = fire is the classic primer not completely seated in the pocket sign. As soon as I started priming off the press with a hand held priming tool and making sure the primers were all the way down into the pocket....that stuff stopped. Doesn't cost anything ... just try it .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
I had to shim the main spring on my 64, I used a strip of brass(came from a name plate from a bowling trophy)it has a bobed hammer and is DAO, suspect the lighter hammer needed more spring. Been in there for 5yrs and never had a problem. My 929 screw backed off by itself. Loctight
My Misadventure in Revolverland ... I finally got time to mess with my mess. I ordered and received a new main spring and strain screw. But being the tinker-butt that I am decided to try the primer shim trick just to say I did, also because the strain screw is definitely NOT original length. Someone has definitely altered original parts. Got'r all back together and the Trigger wont reset without assistance. When the trigger is released, it kinda hangs up and doesn't return all the way. So I thought maybe some dirt or carbon had got inside and was causing havoc, tore it down again and couldn't find anything out of place, so I abandoned that idea and tried to install the new main spring, and couldn't figure out how to do that without bending it. So I hammered the other one as flat as I could (still has a slight curve to it) and reinstalled it with the new strain screw. And trigger will not reset without assistance. So I am assuming the trigger reset spring has been altered too. (?) On the bright side, that was the first side plate I've ever taken off. Little scary at first, but I got through it. So, can I get a spring kit, or do I need to order them individually ? Or is there something else I'm not seeing and need to look at ?
Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !
Lots of folks buy a spring kit that comes with a new mainspring and 3 different return springs. But you can buy return springs separately also.
FYI I suspected that the return spring may have been cut. On a tuned gun I typically aim for half of the DA pull to come from the return spring to ensure proper reset. (DA = 8lb competition federal primers only, 10lb CCI/winchester, 12lb defense)
Happiness is a couple of 38's and a bucket of ammo.
(1) strain screw
(2) if main spring isn't a smooth arc it's a problem. You can usually feel a funny over the hump when shooting DA. Once deformed they will snap at any time.
(3) CCI primers have been known to have hard runs. Usually won't affect SAs but DAs set up light can have problems from misfires to ragged groups from un uniform ignition. I have only seen this in magnum pistol primers.
Your gun is somewhere around 30-40 years old...and shot how much...
May need a new mainspring
May need a new mainspring tension screw
May need a new hammer if the firing pin is too worn
May have a headspace issue
The pull weight for a S&W on SA is usually very light and crisp. SA I have never had a problem with ANY make of primer or ammo in any Smith I have ever fired even with the strain screw was backed out...DA is another matter.
If you don't know Smith smithing well then I would see if there is a Smith in your area who can service it... If you are handy then I would suggest getting this book...
https://www.amazon.com/Revolvers-Sho...gateway&sr=8-1
Bob
First off, I'd like to thank ya'll for your help. I received a new rebound slide spring replacing the one that came with the gun which was about a quarter inch short. I have a new main spring but have not installed it yet. Reinstalled the original one (to me) after hammering the kinks in it out as best I could. The two mainsprings I have appear to be the same length, but the new one is straight and my fingers wouldn't fight it into place so I just put the other one back in. SA trigger pull is now 3.25 Lbs. I fired one cylinder goofing off at work today with no problems. Really like the trigger pull much better now. And the dents in those six primers look deeper to me than the previous ones.
@ RJM52 I like books, thanks for the link
Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !
Isn't it nice when you can carry a gun to work and use it.
Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both
The big test is when you try DA...if you look the hammer releases before it is all the way back giving less momentum to the firing pin strike...
I have settled on a 13# trigger return spring... It has nothing to do with hammer velocity and is the minimum I've found that one has reliable trigger return and smoother DA... You can get a test pack of springs from Brownells.. For a main spring I prefer the reliability of the standard factory spring....
Bob
with my relatively new 642 centennial, the trigger pull was about 14# but was not a real issue and staged well, and shot well. wanting a bit smoother trigger, i installed a wilson combat kit and now enjoy a 10# trigger that's much smoother than before, no problem setting off even cci primers, but still stages well for that pseudo single action feel.
I went up the canyon with my pup today and finished unloading that first 100 rounds I made, no issues. That was all SA. I'll have to play with the DA later after I get something cast or bought to continue my adventure. Seems pretty close to my 629's now. What I'm accustomed to.
Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |