Is it safe to use 125gr load data for 124 gr lead cast?

[RED BEAR]

Welcome aboard glad to have you as you have already figured out the answer is yes. Just approach max with caution as always.

[Cherokee]

You've already gotten lots of input so I'll just say: Welcome !

[skeet1]

The only problem in switching bullets is not the 1 gr. of weight difference but the profile of the bullet. Is the seating depth greatly different and is the nose of the bullet able to be chambered in you firearm without seating to deep?

Ken

[mdi]

Welcome to the wonderful, often frustrating and confusing world of cast boolits.

You have received a lot of info, possibly too much, but in my experience teaching and learning; K.I.S.S.!
Get a Lyman Cast bullet Handbook (the 3rd Edition is more newby friendly, but the 4th Edition has a bit more data). Use book data for powder charge and OAL. Learn the plunk test.

Also my#1 Rule that I suggest to anybody; pay no attention to any load data from any forum expert, range rat, gun counter clerk, pet loads website, good intended friend, or gun shop guru. I use published reloading manuals for 98% of my load data and occasionally look in at a powder manufacturer/distributor's website. I suggest this to new reloaders at least until they have enough experience for their Poo Poo filters to develop. I have been reloading since 1969 and had one squib (1970) and no Kabooms, nor near Kabooms (I don't fear upper, "hot" loads, especially in my 44 Magnums, but I use common sense and stay below book maximums).I have seen questionable load data and at least one dangerous load (I saw a load that was one full grain over max for Unique on a forum). I log every load and normally I stsrt at the starting load and often refer back to my log for subsequent loads.

[Springfield]

I know you don't care about wasting lead, but if you were worried about using bullets that were 1 grain lighter than what the books listed, wait until you cast a bullet from the 60/40! Also, I'm pretty sure that the 60/40 bullets will be much harder and increase pressure. Our suggestion to keep that lead separate was not just about money and wasting lead, it was about safety.

[trapper9260]

Welcome to the fun .I have nothing to add then what all had been stated .

[Nano]

I got my copy of the #4 book today, so I'm gonna pour over that a bit and learn about the loads and such while I look into lead sources etc. Another question. I do plan on casting while using range lead as a source as my range said it's ok for me to collect brass and lead as long as I pay for the range time which Is 100% fair in my book. What type of lead would you consider this, to the closest description? Once I've went through the roughly 10 ish pounds of lead in my current pot. Then I'll focus on making sure I use specific alloys. I think I should be able to get a better hand on making sure my mold is hot enough as is my mix and possibly pick up a lead thermometer soon so I can write down what temps give me what type of pour. I did cast a bullet I thought looked nice, and made a single round that was within spec entirely. I just did the plunk test with my round that I assembled and it passed the plunk test with no issues. I also tested two factory rounds and both did as well. The round also fits in the magazine with no issues. Safe to say I did something right at least? However... I used the load data from the Lee deluxe die set. My completed round measured 1.125 OAL. The paper insert from the die set says that's the minimum OAL. Is this still ok? Bear with me. I'm still getting the hang of this. All this info has been amazing. I will say my completed round. You know how my mold has the 3... I don't know what you call them. The 3 grooves or whatever. Well my projectile is seated on the one closest to the top. Possibly half way up it. As in the round is not completely in the cartridge. Is this ok? Here's a picture of it. Hope it's ok. https://imgur.com/a/bW1r7s2

Also I might as well post this since it could be relevant. Any ideas on why my powder charge and expander die sorta... "grabs" a case and occasionally doesn't wanna let go unless I use a little more force? Also looking at my completed round it looks like the boolit is... crooked. Not by much but very slightly. I was so close too..

[David2011]

So I weighed the bullet and it weighed 121gr. And when you say start with minimum load for a 124gr. I have a modern reloading second edition book and the closest data I could find to what I need is 124gr copper plated and it lists titegroup as 3.6 start grains and and max OAL of 1.150. Is this still acceptable? As for the waste of lead, honestly it's fine. You can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs, right? Or something like that lol.

First, I want to welcome you to Castboolits.

Now, ARRRRRGH!!!! As a group we really hate to see tin wasted. Others have already said this, but you should not be casting boolits with 60/40 solder. There are economic and safety issues. The BHN (Brinell Hardness Number) of 60/40 solder is 16 so boolits cast from 60/40 will be harder than necessary or desirable for handguns. A pound of 60/40 has 6.4 ounces of tin which is enough to add to 8-10 pounds of clip on wheel weights for a BNH between 10-11. The benefit of the tin is that it is a wetting agent for molten lead, much as a drop or two of dishwater reduces the surface tension of a quart of water. It will make it much easier to get the alloy to fill the mold completely and get nice sharp corners on your boolits that mimic the machined cavities of the mold. Without the tin the mold and alloy need to be considerably hotter to get good fillout. Casting at higher temperatures has its own set of challenges and is slower compared to more normal temperatures.

Copper plated boolits can be considered the same as cast boolits since the core is soft swaged lead and the copper plating is very thin compared to a drawn copper jacket.

[AggieEE]

David2011 beat me to asking about the 60/40 marked bar. If it looks like the 60/40 was molded in and not stamped by somebody with a set of metal stamps it could be 60/40 solder. The tin % is always listed first. The exceptions will be some of the lead free solders that have a high antimony content. I've seen 95/5 listed where it's 95% antimony. If it really is 60/40 solder use about 3% by weight with your WWs. Welcome to the madness.

[jcren]

Your seating depth looks fine. Old rule of thumb is usually a thumbnail thickness of the "driving band" (first shoulder on bullet) showing. The dragging after flare/powdercharge is normal, Probably due to the flare die being a bit rough, or maybe overflaring if it sticks as the brass is coming out of the die. Could polish it if you are ocd, but the jerking actually helps settle the next charge in the measure. Don't over stress oal for now as long as you aren't pushing max pressures, book oal only applies to that exact bullet style, if it feeds and functions and is not excessivly short, good to go. Don't sweat the slightly crooked. This can be caused by the bullet being slightly out of round (didn't notice if you sized the bullet)

[fredj338]

Reloading data isn't that complicated guys nor is it that precise. The diff in the same bullet bearing surface with a bit more weight either way isn't moving the pressure needle. So no issues using 124gr data for a 125gr or even 130gr bullet if the bearing surface is the same length.

[mdi]

Hint; K.I.S.S. Some of the "suggestions" are involved enough, long enough to be a magazine article, and way overkill for a new caster.

Range lead is fine for a beginning caster. I even bought range lead from a Vendor Sponsor here and it normally runs 9-11 BHN (when I started casting I wasn't overly concerned with BHN and 98% of my casting was with wheel weights and range lead). Alloying can wait for now, as making good bullets, learning how to process and load them is more important (bullet to gun fit is very important). BTW, 60/40 is solder not bullet lead.

For now, your most important measurements; Bullet diameter and for your 9mm, groove diameter, and OAL. Just make sure the finished cartridge fits the chamber.

Load data is in your manual, stick with that.

Look at your Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook for casting and loading info.

Most forum responses are good, but many new reloader's threads start out with a simple question, and the next few posts are good answers then they morph into advanced techniques and theory, very often just adding confusion to a new reloader/caster's simple request. Since the newbe isn't informed enough to separate the "wheat from the chaff", he is often left frustrated and confused...

So, again, K.I.S.S.
Go slow. Double check everything. And most important, have fun...

[Nano]

Oh I'm definitely going slow. I'm super new to it and I get people wanna just get that first fresh loaded round in I like my fingers so I'm taking my time. Like I said before. I'm going slow for my own safety. I spent the last few days going back through this thread making sure I read things properly. A lot of this info was great and you're right, it did add a lot of confusion but it also helped me a bit so I'll take it. I'm very thankful for all the wonderful help and knowledge provided.

[mdi]

"They" say, "the only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets". Enjoy...

[castalott]

Welcome Nano! Your harder bullets ( more tin ) can lead worse than a soft alloy. WW work just fine for most things although not all WW are the same. The older WW are much prized by me as the newer stuff just isn't as good for my purposes.

I was where you are 40+ years ago. My first 38 special loads were so light they would not shoot thru one side of a metal 55 gallon drum..... Yes, I could see them in flight now that you mention it. Lucky I didn't leave one in the barrel and the add another to it...ruining the barrel.

I did ruin a wonderful 45 acp barrel that way..... I'm just saying count your shots on target...


Best of luck... Dale

[Nano]

There was like 2 or maybe 3 bars of 60/40. The rest were WW or unknown source. I've used a total of 11 ingots from this location. So maybe I'm safe? Either way. Nothing has been fired yet. Lets say I did though. What is the process of cleaning the tin out? Is it like the typical rod and patch + Bore snake orrrrr toss the gun in a river and call it a loss?

[castalott]

Just try to watch for the start of it and stop before it is bad. There is a thread , I think, on spraying the bore with Kano oil and it might get under the lead to loosen it. A Lewis lead remover or such can get it out. If it is not too bad, a few jacketed rounds can do wonders. I expect the experts will answer shortly with something I have forgot. Don't let it drive you crazy. Everyone has a few problems starting out. (You can always just melt your boolets down and cast some from pure ww. Save this tin rich alloy for sweetening another mix.)

You will have to try hard to make as many mistakes as me.... Dale

[Nano]

Ok but my mix is already melted lol. I mean I have an ingot mold so I can dispense the entirety of my pot into the molds I guess.