I'm very early in the process, just two casting sessions and have loaded up only a handful of rounds from the first one. Set up the mold with two Large HP and two Blank pins, cleaned with brake cleaner, lubed pins and sprue plate pivot, then cast with WW lead. No pre-heat of the mold, just several castings to get it warmed up before bullets started coming out complete. My two uses for the caliber are a Marlin 32-20 and Single Six .32 H&R, primarily the former for silhouettes.

Some of the HP'd bullets were hanging up and the pin was able to tip them out of the mold, then in the second session I went all blank pins and that last bullet on the far end was a bear to remove. Solution was to let it ride through a second pouring at which point it comes out with handle pivot tapping like the others. Will have to research the techniques you guys use to better prep your brass molds to clean that hole up.

Mine's a GC mold, the first one of the type I've tried and the GC's (Hornady) crimp on well. I use LBT Blue lube which is what goes on my .41's for use in a Marlin, also at silhouettes. No intention to run these bullets very fast, 1300-1500 or so will be enough. With a scope on board the rifle my day at the range testing a variety of bullets and powders found the solid version of this bullet giving the best group at 50 yards with 9gr of AA #9 for 1497fps. That's actually the only combination I tried, with both HP and FP designs, as at the same time I also finally got around to trying some 100gr HP cast from GT Bullets with 6 different powders. Maybe I got lucky with the AA #9 combination right out of the gate, it would be fantastic to have other powders push the heavy bullets this well.

I only tried one loading in the Single Six .32 H&R, 7gr of AA #9 with both FP and HP versions, and at 960fps the results were dismal. Was using 800x, BE-86, Titegroup and AA #9 with 3 other cast and 3 jacketed bullets on that day, found 3.5gr of Titegroup and a 95gr cast from Moyer to be a very nice performer and will try that powder with the Mjolnir HP next time out.


I don't know that I've seen the Cup pins on other molds I've looked into, what is the purpose of it vs. a short HP pin?