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Thread: Scoped my Mosin 91/30.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Larry.
    That looks like the ATI scope mount.
    I have installed many of those for friends, but never on my rifles.
    That third screw that you added really makes a difference in keeping them tight.
    The pictures I submitted of the bolt modification were built in the late 70's.
    The top two on the left started off as a D&T of sorts and are made out of 1/4" flat steel reshaped, and the one has the original Ball off the old bolt D&T'ed onto the shank.
    Where I mounted the handle onto the bolt body, I did not countersink the screws.
    Both parts are threaded, then put together and the screw shank is ground and polished flat.
    The bottom two are welded on.
    I did those after I taught myself to Gas Weld.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    Heading out soon. I scrapped the idea of going over 13 grains of red dot. I loaded some with 2400 and IMR 4895.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  3. #23
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    Please post your results.
    Are you still using the Speer 150 .312 ?
    I noticed that my MN's like heavier bullets, especially in Cast

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    Ok here we go lol. Running the speer .311 hot core 150 44 grains of IMR 4895. And tula. My 13 grain red dot were all over. I didn't take pic of them. Gun was hot when i got to them. I started out with the tula factory. Had to do some adjustment after taking the scope off and loc-tite'n it. The 2400 grouped the tightest but high. I was aiming at the paper. I used a makeshift cheek rest.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    How many grains of the 2400 ?

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    25 grains.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    I don't know if you want to keep your rifle in its original form.
    But the two rifles in the pictures I posted work great.
    The Monte Carlo stock is the Original M28-30 Finn that I laminated wood to the stock, then reshaped it into a more Sporting design for hunting.
    The Black one is actually a Prototype that I made out of Poplar Planks I glued together then cut out my own design.
    It was supposed to be a Pattern to use on a stock Duplicator.
    But the guy that had the duplicator that I could use moved to the other side of the country.
    So , I just painted it with Black Wrinkle paint and mounted it on a rifle.
    But I made two more stocks like that design and used Wood Flooring planks glued together for the wood.
    One out of Walnut, and one out of Cherry.
    The pistol grip design on the short rifle especially with the cheek piece riser is very quick to the shoulder and is perfect for the High See thru scope mount
    The pistol grip also helps with the recoil.
    I call that one my AKMN.
    Here is another MN stock that I modified that you can see better how it was laminated and a picture of a target from years ago with a light bullet in a .310 Sako Finn
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    Yeah i want to keep it original as possible. And work from it. I know it can group tight from my irons testing. Here is some results with the irons different ammo. S is speer loads. T is tula P is ppu.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    My post might be late to the party, but time is limited. Anyway. . . .

    BigAl, those groups are looking good. I topped out at 24gr of 2400 with paper patched cast.

    A common characteristic on Mosins I worked with was that the forearm and handguard fit around the barrel at the front barrel band was sloppy loose, causing uneven and/or random contact with the barrel from shot to shot and sometimes moving the strikes in some direction due to humidity changes bending the forearm. This is evidenced by the barrel being worn shiny from movement where it should be gripped by the stock. The Finns were better at stocking them so they could be reliably be free-floated in their conversions, but even they stopped doing that. The standard fix for this was to tightly wrap paper around the barrel until there is too much, and then remove a wrap or so until the band could be tightly installed. The paper can then be saturated with a persistent moisture displacer (beeswax, LPS-3, bearing grease, etc.). It won't be free-floated, but the harmonics will be consistent from shot to shot instead of all over the map and paper can stand what heat is likely with any rapid fire matches in a bolt-action. Improper action screw tension from decades of storage is also pretty common. I don't recall what the torque was supposed to be, but a rule of thumb was that the front screw should be tighter than the rear by 20% or so. Others who have the data might chime in on that detail. This likely will not make your Mosin into a one-hole-group match rifle, but ya never know. In any case, it sure reduces the scatter common to old battle-axes.

    LAGS, those are nice bolt handle jobs! I particularly like the one at the bottom of the last pic. Do you do this for others? I'd have my Mosin out more, but that little straight-out stub doesn't offer much leverage against that truck spring in the bolt. It would be nice to have a mod like that which doesn't require cutting a channel in the stock to accommodate it.
    Last edited by yeahbub; 04-15-2019 at 12:16 PM.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    There's a company in Western Pa. that makes a great non drill mount for Russian and
    K98 rifles.... contact DANO5058@hotmail.com
    Denny

  11. #31
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    @ yeahbub
    I use to make handles for people Locally.
    But now that I am retired, I am going to concentrate on my rifles.
    But I like sharing the pictures with others, so they can do their own or have someone locally do it for them.
    There is some minor fitting to the rifle that is required to do things right.
    I don't like the One Size Fits all stuff on the Net.
    But I am glad you like the handles.
    That handle you like is actually a Weld on Handle that I got from Brownell's 20 years ago for one of my Mauser customs

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    Larry.
    That looks like the ATI scope mount..........
    I believe you are correct.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I like the ATI scope base.
    But I don't like their D&T bolt handle replacement.
    It works fine, and can be easily installed.
    But , That again is a personnel preference.
    But it is too short for what I like and is sometimes hard to work if your rifle has a rough chamber or one of them that still has the cosmoline cooked into it.
    But the handle replacement is the fastest and cheapest way for the Average Guy to turn down the bolt handle on a MN and they make one for a Mauser too.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    Im going to see if i can tighten the front barrel band. With an index card. My cheek rest is on the way. Hope i get it before this coming monday. Going to be a washout the rest of the week with rain. Sunday ill be away for Easter at my parents.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    To tighten up the barrel bands, and make them fit the stock, I built up the inside of the band "off the stock" with Epoxy then sanded it to fit the stock shape.
    A index card is the same thickness and will add thickness to the tightness of the band only on the parts where it hits.
    Possibly making the other areas with gaps, even larger.
    The epoxy can be built up only in the areas where you see gaps between the band and the stock, and it stays on the Band and doesn't mess up your stock.
    But another option if you want is to build up areas ON the stock or Handguard where there are gaps Under the band if you want to.

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    I like the ATI scope base.
    But I don't like their D&T bolt handle replacement.
    It works fine, and can be easily installed.
    But , That again is a personnel preference.
    But it is too short for what I like and is sometimes hard to work if your rifle has a rough chamber or one of them that still has the cosmoline cooked into it.
    But the handle replacement is the fastest and cheapest way for the Average Guy to turn down the bolt handle on a MN and they make one for a Mauser too.
    The ATI bolt handle does indeed suck......that's why I didn't use it. The Soviet long sniper bolt handle gives lots of leverage and is much better. The ATI Base is excellent on the other hand was easy to modify with a hacksaw and files to accommodate the Soviet sniper bolt handle. It works very well for me.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    I am glad that I am not the only one who has the Personnel impression on the ATI bolt handle replacement.
    But if you try it, and you too do not like it, the bolt body can still be modified to use another bolt handle.
    But , like I said, it is a good starting point for most shooters on a Limited Budget, or just want a Quick Fix.

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    Great idea Lags. Thank You.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    @ BigAlofPa
    You are welcome.
    I like digging back into my past and bringing up Ideas that worked for me back in the day.
    But if the epoxy doesn't work the way you want it to, it is easy to remove and try something else.

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    I found that the screw by the trigger worked loose. I thought i put blue loc-tite on it. I did now lol. Back one by the bolt was still tight. So ill see if that helps. One step at a time.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check