RCBS Prime-on-press

[Captain*Kirk]

For any of you who are using the older RCBS 'prime on press' primer feeder tubes;

I like this system. Plenty of leverage, faster than a hand squeeze prime tool, and way easier on the wrists and fingers. There is one flaw, however...when priming cases (the tubes don't hold more than 50 primers at a time), everything works great until the last two or three primers. Without the weight of stacked primers on top of them, the last couple primers either fail to load into the cup or tip sideways...not a good thing.
This was easily remedied by purchasing a length of brass rod that will fit in either the small or large primer tube. I placed a slip on rubber cap on one end then cut to length so that the rubber cap rests on the upper end on the tube when the other end or the rod is level with the primer feed cup. The weight of the brass rod keeps a constant feed pressure on the primers, and the rubber cap provides a quick visual cue as to roughly how many primers are left. This has made all the difference in the world for smooth primer feeding without mishap, can't figure out why RCBS never included something like this as standard equipment.
I purchased both the brass rod and rubber cap at Ace Hardware for next to nothing.

[swheeler]

I used mine for many years but no long do, but I could swear 100 primers fit into each tube large or small?

[Captain*Kirk]

I used mine for many years but no long do, but I could swear 100 primers fit into each tube large or small?

Hmm...now you have my curiosity up. I will have to double check.
Either way, the brass rod works great.

[Conditor22]

The brass rod is a good idea. You could also mark the rod so at a glance you know when your down to 10 or? primers.

[44magLeo]

When I started out reloading in '78 I had a Rock Chucker press and primed on the press. Never liked the tubes. If you fumbled while handling the filled tubes primer go everywhere.
The process was ok. If a primer did get tipped it was easy to crush the primer into the case.
Not only was I a bit worried about fumbling the filled tubes. What it the tube hit the floor and the primers went off!
I primed this way for about a year then got my first Lee hand primer tool. What a relief. I could feel the primers seat much better than on the press. No fumbled tubes. No Crushed primers. Just dump the primers in the tray, shake a bit and prime away.
I have used the Lee tool ever since. When Lee came out with the Ergo tool I got one of them. Easier to use. My fingers did the work instead of my thumb. I thought it would be easier on my hands. A bit of arthritis in my hands,
I now use the Lee bench prime. I can prime many more cases with this tool and not get sore, tired hands.
Leo

[pworley1]

I have tried the tubes, the hand primer, and the primer arms, but I always go back to the ram prime system. RCBS's is good but I like the Lyman one a little better so that is the one I use most of the time.

[Binky]

I no longer use prime on press method but did for many years. Over the years the fill tubes have changed. From long to shorter and with different shaped plastic bits to load the primers. Both Lyman and RCBS will work in the RCBS bench primer that I use now. As to the brass rod idea: I used a heavy hanger. Cut a piece to length and rounded the ends. Made a loop on one end and inserted into the tube. Not only helps with the last primer in the tube problem but also serves as a measure to remind me that the tube is getting low.

[OS OK]

Your method of handling the loading of the primers into tubes, into strips or into a hand prime tool still requires acquired skill and attention also. Practice and attention to detail along with problem solving refines our skills. Whichever method you choose, it is the final set in the case that matters most.

It is my opinion that the process of seating primers does not get the proper attention and in most cases proper QA after insertion it deserves.

This subject makes me wonder just how many can actually claim that 100% of their primers are seated to at least flush with the pockets...actually .002" under flush would be optimal.

Can you say that priming on a single stage or progressive press will do this every time? I think not, there is no way to insure that a primer is properly seated unless the case is removed and you either visually inspect it or finger swipe the bottom of the case feeling for a proud set primer.
When this condition is found...a proud set primer in a loaded round...would you just try to reset it or would you have to de-mil that round?

Proud primer sets can be very dangerous in semi auto and even lock a revolver up.

I wonder how many really appreciate the explosive nature of primers and primer dust around the press and on the bench where we load them...how many actually make an effort to clean these areas and around the primer shuttles on our presses?

It is a good idea sometimes to stop and reflect on our methods in reloading ammo...often times years of handloading and casting makes one complacent.

[Captain*Kirk]

Your method of handling the loading of the primers into tubes, into strips or into a hand prime tool still requires acquired skill and attention also. Practice and attention to detail along with problem solving refines our skills. Whichever method you choose, it is the final set in the case that matters most.

Amen to that!

It is my opinion that the process of seating primers does not get the proper attention and in most cases proper QA after insertion it deserves.

..and that as well!

This subject makes me wonder just how many can actually claim that 100% of their primers are seated to at least flush with the pockets...actually .002" under flush would be optimal.

After each primed case is removed from the shellholder, prior to placing it in the loading tray, I grasp it between thumb and forefinger and lay the case head (primer side down) on a piece of flat stock and try to rock it. If a primer is not completely seated, it will wobble on the primer (high spot), and yes, I've had it happen. Back in the press for another squeeze. Last step prior to placing in the loading tray is to flip it over and do a quick look-see of the primer. If it's good, it goes in the tray.

Can you say that priming on a single stage or progressive press will do this every time? I think not, there is no way to insure that a primer is properly seated unless the case is removed and you either visually inspect it or finger swipe the bottom of the case feeling for a proud set primer.

No, see my answer above

When this condition is found...a proud set primer in a loaded round...would you just try to reset it or would you have to de-mil that round?

Never had an issue with re-seating. This is where the prime on press has an advantage; you have all the leverage in the world with the press arm.
It's also the reason I have gone to using the RCBS primer pocket uniforming tool...on my case prep center it takes a mere second during case prep to make sure the pockets are all exactly the same size prior to priming.

I wonder how many really appreciate the explosive nature of primers and primer dust around the press and on the bench where we load them...how many actually make an effort to clean these areas and around the primer shuttles on our presses?
It is a good idea sometimes to stop and reflect on our methods in reloading ammo...often times years of handloading and casting makes one complacent.

Brass prep is my single most labor intensive and time consuming task, including visual inspection inside & out for pistol brass, and using the RCBS case mic tool for HP rifle bottleneck cases, where you can't really see inside the case well. I generally do the brass prep separate from reloading, and when I grab a bag of prepped brass, I know it's ready to load with no shortcuts. Each baggie has a tag that follows the brass that details every step of the prep, including # of firings (if known) and whether brass was trimmed and to what length, etc. You should never let your guard down, another reason why I prefer a single stage press.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Another use for a straightened out metal clothes hanger with the twist and hook cut off.Robert

[Captain*Kirk]

When I started out reloading in '78 I had a Rock Chucker press and primed on the press. Never liked the tubes. If you fumbled while handling the filled tubes primer go everywhere.

My tubes came with tiny 'hitch pins' that are inserted through a cross-drilled hole near the top of the inverted tube. If you leave this hitch pin in as you are 'vacuuming up' the primers, they can't go anywhere. Once the tube is inserted into the primer block, you pull the pin and the primers all slide down into the feed chute. Maybe your earlier ('78) Rock Chucker tubes weren't drilled for the pins? With mine, as long as the pins are in place, the primers aren't going anywhere.

[Captain*Kirk]

Another use for a straightened out metal clothes hanger with the twist and hook cut off.Robert

That would certainly work, although the brass is noticeably heavier, if that matters.

[Baltimoreed]

I found an aluminum rod on eBay thats marked 25-50-75 for my Dillon 100 primer tube to replace the plastic one but don’t bother with a follower rod for the smaller 50 primer tubes that go on my Lyman T2 as it would get in the way. To me it’s pretty obvious that I’ve picked up a primer or not. The primer body can move and occasionally needs to be adjusted on the turret. If you’re experiencing no pick ups when you push the arm against the detent it probably needs to be tilted in or out and then up or down. It’s got to be high enough to push in the detent and the primer arm cup square to the stack of primers to release just one but hold the rest in place until moved and the detent pops back out.

[Walks]

The primer tubes are still in use by RCBS. They use them for the Bench mounted priming tool. Same one used on the Piggy-Back that fits on The RC & some later JR. Presses.

And the brass rods from the Spyderco Knife Sharpener, one will fit down any primer tube for those last few primers. And you will know when you run out of primers, because it stops the feed.

And the new priming tubes for the Current HORNADY L-N-L are the same as the RCBS.

[EDG]

You might consider a lighter hollow follower on your stack of primers in the priming tube.
A primer detonation will launch a solid rod back at you. Even a piece of tubing would get blown out but the force might be reduced by the hollow shape.

[David2011]

I used mine for many years but no long do, but I could swear 100 primers fit into each tube large or small?

The primer tubes have been made in both 50 and 100 piece capacity. I have some of both.