Another Bubba gun lube

[NWPilgrim]

I would be careful with using bike chain lube in firearms. Some of the chain lubes are wax based and designed to peel off taking the dirt with it. Bicycle chains are also not subject to the heat and impact of many gun parts in action. It might seem great at first but be cautious about prolonged firing sessions. I would rather use BreakFree, ATF or Mobil1 rather than a chain lube.

And yes I actually do use White Lightening Wet type lube on my bikes!

[M-Tecs]

For AR Carriers and all bolt lugs I am using Phil Wood Tenacious Oil http://www.philwood.com/products/gohc/oilngrease.php . It's a chain oil.

http://www.6mmar.com/Info_Page.html
"On lubrication, about 95% of all "gun" lubricants out there are not appropriate for an AR. For the bolt lugs in particular you need a very high viscosity sticky lubricant because the lugs are a "severe duty" application in that they open fast under pressure and get very hard use otherwise. Most greases are no good because they don't stay around. The best lubricant I have found is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (it's like a sticky 90 wt. gear oil) and you can buy it for $8 or so at your local bicycle shop or on the internet in its own applicator bottle. I have built up a lot of AR's over the years and seen others come back for re-barreling or other work. Some have an enormous amount of bolt wear (and a corresponding dramatic increase in head space) because inadequate lubricant was used. The owners thought they were using a good product, but it was not. A lot of the favorites are no good either (and I am not going to name names)."

[Traffer]

For AR Carriers and all bolt lugs I am using Phil Wood Tenacious Oil http://www.philwood.com/products/gohc/oilngrease.php . It's a chain oil.

http://www.6mmar.com/Info_Page.html
"On lubrication, about 95% of all "gun" lubricants out there are not appropriate for an AR. For the bolt lugs in particular you need a very high viscosity sticky lubricant because the lugs are a "severe duty" application in that they open fast under pressure and get very hard use otherwise. Most greases are no good because they don't stay around. The best lubricant I have found is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (it's like a sticky 90 wt. gear oil) and you can buy it for $8 or so at your local bicycle shop or on the internet in its own applicator bottle. I have built up a lot of AR's over the years and seen others come back for re-barreling or other work. Some have an enormous amount of bolt wear (and a corresponding dramatic increase in head space) because inadequate lubricant was used. The owners thought they were using a good product, but it was not. A lot of the favorites are no good either (and I am not going to name names)."

This reminds me of the stuff they used to have set up in displays at auto parts stores that made the oil "stick to the gears". The displays had a crank with visible gears inside a plastic case where an oil bath would submerge the bottom gear. There would be two separate oil bath displays one with the additive that made the oil "stick" to the gears and the other with no additive. When you would turn the crank the additive stuff would travel up the gear train and lube the whole thing like a big waterfall. Whereas the plain oil would just stay in the bottom. That is probably the same type of chemical action that the oil has that you speak of. I wish I could describe it better.

[M-Tecs]

That sounds about right. I am a sucker for trying gun care products. I have tried a very large percentage of the one available over the last 40 years. Most don't live up to expectations. The Phil Wood Tenacious Oil has far exceeded my expectations and usages. That being said I do not use it nor have I tested it for cold weather applications. I do hunt geese and coyotes in below zero weather and I have specific products for cold weather applications.

[JBinMN]

This reminds me of the stuff they used to have set up in displays at auto parts stores that made the oil "stick to the gears". The displays had a crank with visible gears inside a plastic case where an oil bath would submerge the bottom gear. There would be two separate oil bath displays one with the additive that made the oil "stick" to the gears and the other with no additive. When you would turn the crank the additive stuff would travel up the gear train and lube the whole thing like a big waterfall. Whereas the plain oil would just stay in the bottom. That is probably the same type of chemical action that the oil has that you speak of. I wish I could describe it better.

Our small town local tire shop about 3 blocks away from me has one of those "gear/lube do hickeys" right there on the counter & you can entertain yourself, or some lil kids with ya, checkin it out while ya wait.


Kinda fun... Even if ya aren't a lil kid.

Heh heh.. I am still a lil kid at heart when it comes to those types of things.. Gotta make 'em run, just to see how it works, IMO...
LOL


Ya only live once.

[sparky45]

Lucas Oil Stabilizer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx1YYOHingE

[Bazoo]

I use Lucas oil stabalizer in my car. I used it in a lawn mower motor I modded the governor spring on and ran wide open. Me and a buddy was hot rodding it. He was into pulling tractors and we was just messing around. We kept it at work and played with it on break, never did lay it down. It would do a little burnout and ride a wheelie 20 feet. Tore several rear ends out of 2 different mowers with that motor. Gave it to his uncle or cousin and last I heard it was still running like a scalded dog. Made me a believer in Lucas oil additive.

[Traffer]

I'm waiting for the reports of people using the Lucas oil additive w/oil on their guns now, I bet it would work well in a M1919 machine gun. lol

[RED BEAR]

The three decimal points just means that the survey is very very accurate and you can really really believe it.

[Traffer]

The three decimal points just means that the survey is very very accurate and you can really really believe it.

I am 63.789% gratified by that statement. Thank you!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Not Lucas,,,, Amsoil 20-50 Racing Oil! I have been using this stuff on the machines in my Machine Shop for 30 years. If you use it in your air compressor it will completely stop the tank from rusting out from the inside. The stuff coats the inside of the tank as it blows by the piston rings of the pump. When you drain the water from the tank it comes out looking like soapy water.

I use it on all my machines as way oil, spindle oil and general lubrication.

I recently redid a Browning A5 and during my reading about those guns I found out that JMB recommended 30 wt Motor Oil for lubricant.

Anyone who has taken one of these apart knows and understands that these aren't really guns, they are Machinery! There is a bunch of places they need lubrication and the two primary ones are the bolt guide ways/barrel guide ways, and the friction ring around the mag tube.

There are also pivot points for the trigger, hammer lifter, all of which need to be wet to function correctly. These guns will literally run forever with only cleaning and proper lubrication.

I used every gun oil and magic spuge on my bench when assembling and disassembling several of these guns,,, actually 3 of them. None were any better than any other until a big light bulb in my head went on and I dumped a few drops of the Amsoil 20-50 racing Oil on the guide ways.

There was a 52.726 % reduction in effort to move the bolt, and the gun now cycles with very light rounds which it wouldn't do before.

The other added benefit of the Amsoil is that it is Synthetic and is not affected by cold weather. It is 20 wt when it is cold and 50 wt when it is hot. The stuff is also a little sticky so it stays on the job rather than running off due to gravity

This should interest people who hunt in cold weather and have had guns seize up due to low temps.

I was once sold on Frog Lube. But having a Springfield Bolt Action seize closed due to cold weather cured me of that. The stuff works well as a rust preventative as long as you cook it into the metal. As a lubricant It leaves alot to be desired.

I read an article in a gun mag about wonder lubes a while back. The guy stated that as soon as they could prove that the wonder lube would do something that 30 wt motor oil wouldn't do he'd be sold.

Amsoil is "Motor Oil" but it doesn't freeze, so I switched. Works for Mould Lube as well.

Randy

[Petrol & Powder]

The three decimal points just means that the survey is very very accurate and you can really really believe it.

[JimB..]

Does Phil Wood Tenacious oil sound like chainsaw bar oil? I but it by the gallon, but have never tried it on a gun.

[Traffer]

Not Lucas,,,, Amsoil 20-50 Racing Oil! I have been using this stuff on the machines in my Machine Shop for 30 years. If you use it in your air compressor it will completely stop the tank from rusting out from the inside. The stuff coats the inside of the tank as it blows by the piston rings of the pump. When you drain the water from the tank it comes out looking like soapy water.

I use it on all my machines as way oil, spindle oil and general lubrication.

I recently redid a Browning A5 and during my reading about those guns I found out that JMB recommended 30 wt Motor Oil for lubricant.

Anyone who has taken one of these apart knows and understands that these aren't really guns, they are Machinery! There is a bunch of places they need lubrication and the two primary ones are the bolt guide ways/barrel guide ways, and the friction ring around the mag tube.

There are also pivot points for the trigger, hammer lifter, all of which need to be wet to function correctly. These guns will literally run forever with only cleaning and proper lubrication.

I used every gun oil and magic spuge on my bench when assembling and disassembling several of these guns,,, actually 3 of them. None were any better than any other until a big light bulb in my head went on and I dumped a few drops of the Amsoil 20-50 racing Oil on the guide ways.

There was a 52.726 % reduction in effort to move the bolt, and the gun now cycles with very light rounds which it wouldn't do before.

The other added benefit of the Amsoil is that it is Synthetic and is not affected by cold weather. It is 20 wt when it is cold and 50 wt when it is hot. The stuff is also a little sticky so it stays on the job rather than running off due to gravity

This should interest people who hunt in cold weather and have had guns seize up due to low temps.

I was once sold on Frog Lube. But having a Springfield Bolt Action seize closed due to cold weather cured me of that. The stuff works well as a rust preventative as long as you cook it into the metal. As a lubricant It leaves alot to be desired.

I read an article in a gun mag about wonder lubes a while back. The guy stated that as soon as they could prove that the wonder lube would do something that 30 wt motor oil wouldn't do he'd be sold.

Amsoil is "Motor Oil" but it doesn't freeze, so I switched. Works for Mould Lube as well.

Randy

OK, I'm sold, Will never use anything but Amsoil 20-50 again.

[Tom W.]

LPS I, II, or III depending on the consistency that you need LPS I is like WD-40 LPS III is like a good chain lubricant.

[Hossfly]

I use lps3 on dies that am going to store long term, very good rust preventer.

[EDG]

All these personal anectdotes are basically opinions and do not include side by side testing.
The American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM) and American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) have standardized tests that provide fair tests under the most severe conditions.
That is how companies decide what lubricants to use in millions of car, truck and airplane engines that are warranted for replacement if the lube fails.

[W.R.Buchanan]

EDG: But do they test to 3 decimal places? I don't believe they do,,,

which makes our in house testing far superior.

Traffer: Make sure you get the Amsoil 20-50 "Racing Oil" as it is different than the regular Amsoil 20/50 synthetic oil.

I have never changed to oil but once in my Shop Compressor in 20 + years after the first oil change. I check it monthly, and it is still Red in color and looks new. This IR Compressor came with synthetic oil from the factory but rusty water showed immediately. I changed to the 20/50 Racing Oil and it was gone by the next tank drain which was less than one week later. This is the third compressor I have done this to, I have a 20 gallon 2HP Campbell Backup Compressor which has always had this oil in it and the tank is still clean after 30 years.

All my machines are over 30 years old and some more than 60 years old. All show no wear on the guide ways. I am not an Amsoil Distributor, and I wouldn't spend time talking on this subject if the stuff didn't work exceptionally well.

It really works that well!

Randy

[Traffer]

EDG: But do they test to 3 decimal places? I don't believe they do,,,

which makes our in house testing far superior.

Traffer: Make sure you get the Amsoil 20-50 "Racing Oil" as it is different than the regular Amsoil 20/50 synthetic oil.

I have never changed to oil but once in my Shop Compressor in 20 + years after the first oil change. I check it monthly, and it is still Red in color and looks new. This IR Compressor came with synthetic oil from the factory but rusty water showed immediately. I changed to the 20/50 Racing Oil and it was gone by the next tank drain which was less than one week later. This is the third compressor I have done this to, I have a 20 gallon 2HP Campbell Backup Compressor which has always had this oil in it and the tank is still clean after 30 years.

All my machines are over 30 years old and some more than 60 years old. All show no wear on the guide ways. I am not an Amsoil Distributor, and I wouldn't spend time talking on this subject if the stuff didn't work exceptionally well.

It really works that well!

Randy

I have heard many good things about Amsoil for many years. Expensive but I guess the best.

[Traffer]

All these personal anectdotes are basically opinions and do not include side by side testing.
The American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM) and American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) have standardized tests that provide fair tests under the most severe conditions.
That is how companies decide what lubricants to use in millions of car, truck and airplane engines that are warranted for replacement if the lube fails.

So decimal points with three digits following do not impress you? How about four. This post is 32.3472% more accurate than posts without decimal points?