Never shot an AK, but years ago working with cast and jacketed in an SKS, I was surprised by just how accurate those little rifles are. Way better than it had any right to be.I think it definitely can benefit from reloading for it.
Long ago and far away I developed a load for my first SKS featuring the Remington Corelokt .310" 180 gr RN(.303 British) bullet. I was impressed with the accuracy too.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Do you shoot enough to ever amortize your equipment cost? This is what I ask hunters who are not shooters and ask me if they should reload. Reloading isn’t everybody’s cup of tea. If you shoot just enough to sight in your scope/rifle and hunt or plink a little then buy blaster ammo but if you’re shooting every weekend or competing break down and find some used equipment and new components. Find a buddy who reloads and see what’s involved. Good luck, have fun and be safe.
Why not try it?
NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle
It would be way more accurate. But not cheaper.
I'M FROM THE GOVERNMENT....I'M HERE TO HELP!!
A couple issues with reloading for AK's....
1. Brass. Where are you going to get brass? What are you going to do to catch your precious prepped brass when the AK ejects it 30' off into the bushes?
2. Limitations of the platform. The short sight radius and wobbly-jobbly scope mounts aren't exactly conducive to accuracy. It also has a very heavy operating system and roomy chamber - to ensure reliability under poor field conditions....
3. Lack of really good reloading data. For example - for the 308, 30-06, and 223 - USGI Military match load info really sets the bar in terms of reliable accuracy in a fairly easy to assemble load. This info simply isn't available in the USA for Russian guns. For example - we don't have any info about Russian 7.62x54r competition or sniper ammo except for what a few people have measured from pulling down ammo, weighing components, and running it over a chrono.
4. Volume. AK's make it really easy to burn a big pile of ammo fairly quickly. Reloading said volume of ammo is a chore. You simply can't beat the price and convenience of ordering a brick of cheap Russian ammo to blaze away with.
5. Clogging the gas system. Lead bullets have a reputation of clogging the gas system. Some of this can be traced to poor choice of location for the gas port hole in the middle of a rifling land. Some is simply the reality of lead bullets.
If you want to do it - I recommend a 7.62x39 bolt action like a CZ 527 or a Ruger. Work up loads and then reload. It solves problems 1, 2, 4, and 5 pretty quickly. You most likely won't be shooting up 500 rounds in a go... No gas system to worry about. Work up a good cast boolit load and off you go.
Reload and cast too, for my SKS.
> 1. Brass. Where are you going to get brass?
Really?
> 3. Lack of really good reloading data.
Really?
> 5. Clogging the gas system.
Really?
Nothing like perpetuating History channel myths.
Have you even read anything on this site?
I once owned a Chinese AK and what accuracy I was able to wring from that particular one was dinner plate sized groups at 100 yards with mil spec ammo. Not all of them are the same, though, and I figure any rifle is worth a good going over to see what it can do. No harm in putting it on a bench and trying different types of ammo. Maybe you'll hit on something it likes, preferably of the steel case ammo so retrieval isn't an issue. The commentary about pulling factory bullets and replacing them with something more fitting to the task you intend is an option. Keep in mind that 7.62x39 barrels have the same twist as the 7.62x54R barrels which was intended for a heavier, longer 180gr bullet which generally is pretty fast for that stubby factory 123gr, but surprises do happen and some rifles do well with them. In developing loads for an SKS, it was helpful to choose a bullet weight more appropriate to the rifling twist but light enough that the x39 could still get hunting velocities and expansion. This led me to the 150gr soft points designed for the .30-30, with jackets thin enough that they'll obturate up to full groove depth with a stout book load of AA 2015. Accuracy was on the order of 1-1.5 minutes of angle. Not sure what the velocities were, but bullets recovered from the turf showed classic expansion.
A note for SKS shooters who want to save their boxer cases from being flung into the next county; I dismount the gas tube, drop out the piston and use the stem to stuff 1/2 paper towel into the tube, jamming it tightly down in there to behind the vent holes, reassemble and voila, a straight-pull bolt action. Don't forget to put the piston away in a secure place - you neednt' ask why I mention it. When you're finished shooting, dismount the tube and use the piston stem to push out the paper towel from the breech end of the gas tube, replace the piston/tube and reassemble. Some people just remove the piston and shoot, but this allows a lot of carbon build-up in the rear small diameter portion of the gas tube which is another cleaning job easily avoided.
Attachment 241492
That’s what one of my WASR10/63s does at 100 with Surplus Barnal
I have plenty of 7.62x39 brass, and reload for my SKS's and the Mosin. I have a post next to my bench, so I found one of those golf chipping round nets, at a garage sale, and installed a wood clamp on it. Very easy, every time I shoot, I clamp the net to the post, set up on the bench, and all my brass goes into the big net, no more looking for brass. Always searching for an easy way.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |