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Thread: Building new bench top, ideas?

  1. #121
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    I can understand why you would feel that way, it's common for people to over build stuff with the belief it will be stronger.
    I prefer to obtain strength thru proper engineering, and believe the bracket I pictured would be adequate for a properly designed loading bench, and others would argue that no wall attachment is needed.

    I updated my pic to reflect the common over build mind set:
    Attachment 241058
    So, I guess we can agree to dis-agree, and continue to approach/build things differently.
    cheers,
    A simple sturdy way to attach to wall is leave a 3” overhang on the bench top push against the wall , screw a 2x4 to the wall pushed up against the bottom of the top screw through the bench top into the 2x4 with countersunk screws.

  2. #122
    Boolit Master
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    Another idea is to screw a 1X2 on edge an inch or so in from the. Back of the bench full width to keep stuff from rolling off the back and to give you a place to stick wires crossing the bench.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    Those plates are a good idea . Even something similar made from 1/4 to 3/8 aluminum (can be worked with wood working tools) bolts like this might be nice to.
    https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...navid=12103961
    I actually use coupling nuts on those studs, they provide another threaded hole to screw other stuff into, like a mirror or light stand.
    I do use roundish quick knobs to secure the presses on the shelf in storage/not in use.
    I use those plates because I can buy them cheap, already to size and with holes already drilled.
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    I actually use coupling nuts on those studs, they provide another threaded hole to screw other stuff into, like a mirror or light stand.
    I do use roundish quick knobs to secure the presses on the shelf in storage/not in use.
    I use those plates because I can buy them cheap, already to size and with holes already drilled.
    Your setup looks like good bang for the buck a great idea.
    Aluminum would probably cost much more unless a guy could find scrap but is so easy to work For an old woodworker.

  5. #125
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    I never thought this would turn into this great a topic! There are some really fantastic ideas submitted here and it's got to be inspiring someone somewhere!

    When I started thinking about my mount to the bench I looked at a lot of different ideas and solutions from all the different forum posts. I also looked at the Lee mount and the In-Line Flush Mount system. Both had ideas I liked and didn't like. The Lee just didn't look solid enough from many of the videos I watched where they were being used and the In-Line I didn't like the way it protruded beyond the edge of the bench.

    Now I still need to either find a good countersink tool or I need to take the plate off the bench and send it to my friend the machinist to countersink the holes that hold the plate in place. Right now I have pan head machine screws in place and they would be much nicer if they too were flush with the plate.

  6. #126
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    I have the lee system and it is very rigid but ultimately depends on your bench , mine is on the Lee stand so my bench stays clear. All. Of it is plenty stiff for what I reload 7-08 , 356 Win. , 30-06 45–70 are the largest I load 95% is pistol stuff. The only thing I don’t like on the Lee mount is the four phillips screws that clamp the plate to the base I need to replace with Allen screws.
    And it is far from flush the base pate would stick up a least 1//2” with nothing on it.

  7. #127
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    @kmw1954
    I was concerned about taking over/drifting your thread, it's good to know you approve

    I want to add that when I adopted that plate to different/new presses I had to weld on some width to have something under the press bolt holes, with the Loadmaster being the worst because those holes are right on the front edge
    Click image for larger version. 

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    So my system is not without it's faults, and I cut the edge further back and welded on a wider piece so I wouldn't need to drill holes thru the welds.
    For a Pro1000 I used coupling nuts as risers so I could put a primer catch container under the press, negating the need of a hole thru the bench for the primers to fall thru:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can see I welded on some tabs for the Pro1000 too, and drilling thru the welds chewed up a few drills, an experience not to be repeated on the plate for the Loadmaster.
    Latest press on the bench being "built" from gun show stuff, RC/piggyback/etc, a good view of the coupling nuts:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Presses stored on a shelf, dust covers removed:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My loading "room" is a closet under some stairs so I have the same bolt pattern on my work bench so I have some walk-around room when working on a press.
    Adapting a Lee Bullet Feeder for bullet sizing here on the work bench:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    pics save a lot of words...

    Sorry for the continuing/hijack/drift,
    Last edited by Kenstone; 05-20-2019 at 07:32 PM.
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  8. #128
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    @kmw1954
    I was concerned about taking over/drifting your thread, it's good to know you approve
    As best I can tell everyone is staying on topic, we are all being civil, and I am enjoying this so yeah let's have fun with this. We are still talkin bench top ideas right?

  9. #129
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    Keystone those coupling nuts make a nice easy to do riser for a press with 3or4 mounting bolts Thanks for the pics.

  10. #130
    Boolit Buddy Blindshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RP View Post
    I see you have lots of input on your bench I toss this out there for you, I have several presses more then I need way more presses then I can mount on my 14 foot bench. So I put hangers in my ceiling to store them when not in use and bolted a piece of 3 inch wide 1/2 thick flat stock that runs the length of the bench on the leading edge. It has several holes drilled and tapped so I can bolt down any of my presses along the bench.
    When I add a press that has a different foot print I line up a hole what works and drill any needed holes and tap.
    My top is layered plywood reclaimed from a house that was getting torn down they had in the attic with few nails holding it in place, Three layers thick glued and screwed after I added the flat stock I put another of high grade butting the metal to make things level works great for my needs.
    RP, I see we don't live too far from each other. I have sometimes felt like the odd ball because of my shooting to reload hobby. Its good to know there are others in the area with a common "affliction". I'm down to just 5 presses now. I have gifted 4 or 5 to younger folks just starting out.

    OP, love this thread, its always fascinating to see all the different ideas people come up with to mount multiple presses and store the ones not in use.

  11. #131
    Boolit Buddy Blindshooter's Avatar
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    My space is small now but I still use 3 different benches at different heights so I can get comfortable with different machines. All 3 benches in use now are old and have been modified over time. I included some pics of the last modification, adding two layers of 3/4 ply with the socket plate cuts to a bench first built in 1982. It won't the first one but its the oldest one to survive my moves and ex wife etc. This method is fairly cheap and and is very sturdy. Decent plywood, glue and decking screws can make for a stiff wobble free bench. I could see this method working on a old sturdy desk? I may end up having to change everything around to load sitting as I have more spine and now a hip problems. Getting old sucks.
    ETA, my wood working skills are zero as you can see but I don't let that hold me back.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bench_socket1.resized.jpg   bench_socket2.resized.jpg  

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    Keystone those coupling nuts make a nice easy to do riser for a press with 3or4 mounting bolts Thanks for the pics.
    Yep, one size bigger nuts slide right over the all-thread studs, mostly 5/16x18 nuts over 1/4x20 studs for Lee presses.
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  13. #133
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Mine is a commercial steel work bench (built in overhead flour. light) with a solid laminated top covered with soft flooring material. It was FREE! And delivered FREE!
    Whatever!

  14. #134
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    One of the handiest things I did was completely by mistake...

    See the Lee press above with the bolts up with nuts on top?
    I moved my press from a thicker top and the bolts were 'Too Long',
    Right up until the time I realized the case holders would slip over the bolts sticking up through the nuts on top.
    Since I do about the same caliber over & over, I kept the 3 case holders I used the most on the bolts.

    My case holders for the die sets stay with the die sets so I don't get tolerance changes when I'm loading,
    BUT,
    That press also was my tool press, universal decapper, bullet puller, swager (lousy, slow swager) etc,
    2 second tool head change for common tooling, with the case holders right there for what ever gave me problems.

    It's even better when paired with the self indexing progressive press as a tool press, no 'Mystery' cases/rounds on the bench since in 5 seconds I can set up to fix any problem or tear down any suspect rounds and recover components.

    Just for the record, fine threads (SAE) work the best for case holders, something else I leaned completely by accident, fine thread was handy when I was mounting the press.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check