Building new bench top, ideas?

[1Hawkeye]

I have always built my benches with a 2x4 frame on 4x4 legs with 1"plywood for a top and a loose piece of masonite on top of the plywood. The frame is secured to one or two walls. (my current bench is L shaped and in a corner) I don't attach the masonite to the plywood other than were the press, lubesizer, and other tooling are mounted to the bench. The idea behind this is if the masonite gets messed up I can replace it without having to remove any glue from underneath and there are no nail or screw heads for things to get caught in or on. It gives you a very smooth,easy to clean,level surface. For the top plywood either 1/2" doubled up or 1" will work fine its been my experience the thicker the better and to plan out your placement of your tooling before you install it on the bench. Nothing gets your attention faster than turning from your scale or powder measure and cracking your funny bone on the reloading press.

[kmw1954]

Well this thread has clearly shown that there are as many ways to build a bench as there are people reloading, with no right or wrong way to proceed.

Today I was able to get the mounting holes drilled and the steel plate attached to the benchtop. All I can say is WoW! This thing is rock steady and doesn't budge one bit. I tested it with the ABLP mounted and ran a few cases thru the sizing die. So far lovin what I'm seeing!

[1Hawkeye]

Thats what you want solid as a rock with no wobble, flexing or creaks and then when the bench is done and the tooling installed you can figure out any storage or shelves you might want.

[David2011]

The first loading bench I built was small but sturdy and I still have it but for a different purpose. It's only 2'x4'. It has a 2x4 frame that has diagonal cross bracing across the back and on both sides. The top is 3/4 ply covered in Formica or similar laminate. (Never use anything but solid colored laminate. Granite patterns might be pretty but they're camouflage for small parts.) The 2' depth of the footprint was obviously going to be too shallow to keep a free standing bench from tipping when sizing. I made feet to stabilize the bench that extend about 8"-10" beyond the front of the bench and a few inches past the back edge. They're just 2x4s on edge, bolted to the legs with most of the bottom edge cut away so it won't rock on a high spot. They're similar to the attached picture but attached to the sides rather than underneath the legs.

[kmw1954]

I have seen many times people mention that they lag bolt their bench to the walls or floors which is something I've never done with any bench. I cannot tell you or even begin to guess how much this bench weighs other than it is not light weight. I can tell you that it is Free Standing, it is not bolted to anything. Yet it does not rock, wiggle, tilt, slide or walk. Maybe I'm just not working it hard enough!

[1Hawkeye]

I have seen many times people mention that they lag bolt their bench to the walls or floors which is something I've never done with any bench. I cannot tell you or even begin to guess how much this bench weighs other than it is not light weight. I can tell you that it is Free Standing, it is not bolted to anything. Yet it does not rock, wiggle, tilt, slide or walk. Maybe I'm just not working it hard enough!

Its kinda a belt AND suspenders thing. My bench is 96" long and L shaped 25" wide with a 20"x 48" end and the 4x4 legs are in every corner. When it was a 48" x 96" HO train layout it was a little wobbly so I figured I would bolt it to the wall for extra strength and support.

[kmw1954]

Not meant to be a judgment or a brag. Some really do need it, others I think people do it just to feel safer. In this case just stating that it is not needed. One of my last jobs we had a couple benches that were made from 1X1X3/16 square steel tube with a 3/8" steel plate top. Took a fork truck to move the dang thing.

[1Hawkeye]

No worries kmw I just have my dads habit of over-engineering things. If its rock solid without being attached to the wall can be a plus if you ever want to redecorate the room. My first loading bench was a computer desk from williamsburg pottery with a reinforced plywood top but over time I outgrew it and its location. Its now the kids playroom computer desk and its old location is a walk in closet. When I finished the other side of the basement that is when I built the set up I have now and it was built with extra space to grow in to as a just in case.

[44magLeo]

On a bench that can be moved from house to house, you can have a sturdy shelf underneath and stack heavy stuff on it to stabilize the bench.
I cast boolits so I can stack ingots on the shelf. As well as boolits ready to load.
If you don't cast, then cinder blocks will work. Gallon jugs of water. Anything heavy.
Leo

[David2011]

A super heavy overbuilt bench that doesn’t flex noticeably doesn’t need to be attached to a wall. OTOH, a very light bench can be made plenty stiff by screwing it to a wall. I don’t lag bolt mine. Long sheet rock screws are plenty strong. It also matters what kind of press is on the bench. Vibration that is unnoticed with a Rock Chucker might play havoc with a progressive.

[krallstar]

I use 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed. A router with a straight cutting bit will let you inlet your steel plate. Sounds intimidating but is real simple.

I am also doing 3/4x2x8. Question about the glue and screw. What glue do you all use, and how far apart are you placing the screws

[kmw1954]

I am also doing 3/4x2x8. Question about the glue and screw. What glue do you all use, and how far apart are you placing the screws

I haven't done an 8' length but that shouldn't make any difference. I use Titebond III mostly, though I have also tried Gorilla Glue. I prefer the Titebond from when I was rebuilding a lot of boat transoms as from tests and studies it bonds the best when used with plywood. The only thing stronger was 2 part epoxies.

I also used hardwood or aluminum strips around the edges and C clamped about every 6" then I would also fill 2 or 3 30gal barrels with water and set those in the center. No screws. Oh, would also spread the glue with a 1/4" notched trowel like the ones used to lay vinyl flooring.

[krallstar]

progress so far.

[kmw1954]

krallstart nicely done. I've learned I need to keep my benches compact or it becomes a catch-all for all kinds of projects. Even with the small space I have allowed I will find it hard to keep unnecessary items off this space.

Any idea what will be going on top?

[Kenstone]

Lag bolts would be over-kill for me
Find a stud, small angle brackets, and deck screws is what I use.
This is actually a Harbor Freight work bench bracketed to the wall for stuff like hacksawing something in the vise, not reloading

Would work for a reloading bench too, and any small holes left behind would be easily patched/painted.

[krallstar]

I have a rock chucker as my main press. And i also have a lyman 6 hole turret press. I use the turret for a Lee uni decapping die and a Lee expander die. The other 4 are for various neck belling dies. So i can leave them set up. I plan on changing the sizing and seating dies and RC to the hornady quick change setup. I read some guys have a separate bench for working on their stuff. For now i think this bench will be long enough to load at one end and fix stuff at the other. I plan on adding a shelf on the bottom. Going to use the same strong ties i used for the top. This bench as it sits is pretty solid. After the shelf and i get some stuff on there, it should be GTG. I want to add a mounting plate, recessed. It needs to hang over to clear the nut on the handle. Right now there is a 1/2 inch hangover. Would a plate hanging over past that cause flex. And if i don't buy a comm brand plate but buy just a steel plate, how thick would it need to be.

[kmw1954]

Inline Fabrication produces a flush mount quick change plate that is very interesting and may work very well for you. The plate on my bench is 10"X8.25"X3/8" and I am guessing I could easily hang it off the bench 2" and it's not going to flex.

[David2011]

Lag bolts would be over-kill for me
Find a stud, small angle brackets, and deck screws is what I use.
This is actually a Harbor Freight work bench bracketed to the wall for stuff like hacksawing something in the vise, not reloading

Would work for a reloading bench too, and any small holes left behind would be easily patched/painted.

Please don’t be offended. I’m sure that works for a workbench but for a reloading bench I put the screws through the bench frame and into the studs, using a spacer if the frame can’t touch the wall. The bench frame helps support the screw laterally and eliminates a source of flex. Longer sheet rock screws are of a larger diameter than 2” or shorter ones and much stiffer.

[kmw1954]

I have some angles that I made while I was still working. These are 1.5"X1.5"X.250"X 1'wide cut from Stainless angle. We were using these to attach belted conveyor to supports in a food plant.

[Kenstone]

Please don’t be offended. I’m sure that works for a workbench but for a reloading bench I put the screws through the bench frame and into the studs, using a spacer if the frame can’t touch the wall. The bench frame helps support the screw laterally and eliminates a source of flex. Longer sheet rock screws are of a larger diameter than 2” or shorter ones and much stiffer.

Thanks for reading/quoting my post

No offense taken, I'm just not sure why you quoted me instead of just posting your method as an alternative, without the quote?
And yes, I assumed most would understand the angle bracket I used would be BIGGER, with BIGGER construction screws, for a loading bench application.

I'm of the kiss school, and I prefer what I have pictured over what you have described (no pic?).
The bracket location makes it easy to install, is in full view and can be monitored for any compromises at a glance, not burried out of sight under the bench top.
In my view, crawling around under my bench measuring/installing spacers and such is not worth the effort needed for what could be a marginal improvement, if any, over what I posted.
I certainly would NOT have critiqued your post or bench anchoring method here, if it had not contained a quote of mine

um, bracket attached to bench top, press attached to the bench top, would seem to be more rigid, as attaching via the bench frame puts the bench top to frame fasteners into the rigidity path.
JMO

edit: how about this shelf bracket made from a hanging light chain link