Building new bench top, ideas?

[David2011]

I quoted you because this is a reloading forum and in my opinion the light duty brackets would be inadequate for a reloading bench. I didn’t realize that you would use heavier brackets for a reloading bench. All a picture would show is the head of a screw in wood. The spacers are simply pieces of 1x4 that don’t even show. That’s how simple it is. No photos required.

[Kenstone]

I quoted you because this is a reloading forum and in my opinion the light duty brackets would be inadequate for a reloading bench. I didn’t realize that you would use heavier brackets for a reloading bench. All a picture would show is the head of a screw in wood. The spacers are simply pieces of 1x4 that don’t even show. That’s how simple it is. No photos required.

I can understand why you would feel that way, it's common for people to over build stuff with the belief it will be stronger.
I prefer to obtain strength thru proper engineering, and believe the bracket I pictured would be adequate for a properly designed loading bench, and others would argue that no wall attachment is needed.

I updated my pic to reflect the common over build mind set:

So, I guess we can agree to dis-agree, and continue to approach/build things differently.
cheers,

[krallstar]

I know it's over kill. Braces every foot First build. Wanted to make sure it lasts a long time. I plan on adding a 3rd post leg, front and rear. dead center

[kmw1954]

krallstar, not going to hear me criticize. You build it however you see fit and however it fits you.. I believe many of us build to suit our personality.

[JeepHammer]

Just to point out some mechanical basics...

Nails = Back Out/Pull Out.

Thin materials means short screws = small clamping force, weak connections.

Post construction (Legs) = Twisting.
It's the sheeting/'X' brace (triangulation) that keeps posts from twisting, add sheeting around sides/back to stop twisting.

Notch the post (leg) tops and inlet the top bracing so application of force is directly down on the posts.
Screwing bracing to the outside of posts creates a moving sheer line entirely supported by screws or bolts.

Use 'Joist Hangers' on the ends of under top brace butt joint ends, this supports your brace from BELOW instead of screwing into the ends of the brace. (Available in all sizes at the hardware store for a couple bucks)
Google search 'Joist Hangers', 2"x4" hangers are under a dollar locally (90¢ ea.).

Non-triangulated ('L' braces) flex like crazy, so do the flat plate sheet metal braces.
The entire load force is exerted on a few, usually small screws.
A BLOCK screwed in solid makes a MUCH better support for heavy loads.
The block screws SOLIDLY into the frame/support, then the shelf screws SOLIDLY to the block.

Just a few basic structural principles...

[Kenstone]

Just to point out some mechanical basics...

Nails = Back Out/Pull Out.

Thin materials means short screws = small clamping force, weak connections.

Post construction (Legs) = Twisting.
It's the sheeting/'X' brace (triangulation) that keeps posts from twisting, add sheeting around sides/back to stop twisting.

Notch the post (leg) tops and inlet the top bracing so application of force is directly down on the posts.
Screwing bracing to the outside of posts creates a moving sheer line entirely supported by screws or bolts.

Use 'Joist Hangers' on the ends of under top brace butt joint ends, this supports your brace from BELOW instead of screwing into the ends of the brace. (Available in all sizes at the hardware store for a couple bucks)
Google search 'Joist Hangers', 2"x4" hangers are under a dollar locally (90¢ ea.).

Non-triangulated ('L' braces) flex like crazy, so do the flat plate sheet metal braces.
The entire load force is exerted on a few, usually small screws.
A BLOCK screwed in solid makes a MUCH better support for heavy loads.
The block screws SOLIDLY into the frame/support, then the shelf screws SOLIDLY to the block.

Just a few basic structural principles...

thanks for posting

Another basic you omitted
Lap joints are simple to incorporate into bench frame design/construction and way stronger than butt joints.
jmo

[McFred]

A welded steel frame, welded wire mesh and concrete worked for me. It's inconvenient to move, but I don't intend to move it anytime soon.

[468]

My bench is 11’ X 28”. Frame is of 4X4’s, lap jointed to 4x4 legs. Top is of combination of 2x4’s and 2x6’s, covered with Masonite. Rear is attached to a 2x4 ledger board on the wall, attached with 3” Sheetrock screws.

Since it’s not dedicated to reloading, I have 5/16” holes in the bench top with threaded inserts that match the patterns of my various press mounts and lubrisizer. Easy install and removal. No need for steel plate.

I’m tall, so I made raised mounts for my equipment made of 3” pipe and flanges. I can load standing, or sitting on a barstool.

Bench is rock solid. Mounts are also solid. It works for me!

[468]

Oh...kmw1954, your bench looks great!

[Baltimoreed]

I used 3/8 in bolts with flat washers wherever the vertical or diagonal frame 2x4s supports met the horizontal 2x4s, deck screws and lag bolts to attach the 2x4s to the wall studs and flush plow bolts to mount the top to the base. Nice and solid but the top can be removed if necessary. I don’t believe that you can overbuild a reloading bench that you’re trying to lift and pull around every time you reload. Not so much with .25 acp’s but 50 bmg a whole lot with varying amounts for everything in between.

[gunnie]

Interesting thread gents.
I recently completed the construction of a dedicated man-cave which is my gun storage/reloading room. At present only the safes are installed but I am working on the reloading bench at present. One quandary I have is trying to figure out what/how to go about a means of allowing for quick change out of presses. I have 7 presses that I use for varying reloading of over 30 different cartridges and to have them all installed permanently on the bench would make it way too big for the room.

So I have been trawling the web looking for ideas on how to go about this. Yes, I've seen the plates etc made by other companies but I'm not sold on these, not to mention the cost of setting it all up. What I have been considering is a steel plated permanently fixed to the bench, which has a raised lip on three sides. Each press will have a plate permanently fixed to it which then slots into the corresponding bench plate. Slide the press into place and then anchor it down, just how I'm no 100% certain of but am working on it. From my understanding this should allow for a solid method of anchoring the plate/press to the bench and prevent any movement during heavy sizing operations etc.

I'll try and sort out some pics of the current progress and get them up here.

Would not say no to any ideas for the quick change press system. Never hurts to explore all options eh.

[kmw1954]

gunnie, the 3/8" steel plate that I have used on my bench is working quite well. I have the plate drilled and tapped for machine screws and the thickness of the plate I believe provides enough surface that the bolts are not going to strip out. For the machine screws I am using Button Head socket. So a mini 1/4" drive ratchet with an allen bit works wonderfully. I can remove and replace a press in just a couple minutes this way.

[RP]

I see you have lots of input on your bench I toss this out there for you, I have several presses more then I need way more presses then I can mount on my 14 foot bench. So I put hangers in my ceiling to store them when not in use and bolted a piece of 3 inch wide 1/2 thick flat stock that runs the length of the bench on the leading edge. It has several holes drilled and tapped so I can bolt down any of my presses along the bench.
When I add a press that has a different foot print I line up a hole what works and drill any needed holes and tap.
My top is layered plywood reclaimed from a house that was getting torn down they had in the attic with few nails holding it in place, Three layers thick glued and screwed after I added the flat stock I put another of high grade butting the metal to make things level works great for my needs.

[kmw1954]

RP, That is one of the beauties of this hobby/sport. There just isn't only one way to do it. Our benches and reloading tools are as diverse as the guns we all shoot and as varied as our personalities. I really do enjoy the diversity this site brings and it's all kept civil.

That bench you have sounds impressive!

[Kenstone]

Interesting thread gents.
I recently completed the construction of a dedicated man-cave which is my gun storage/reloading room. At present only the safes are installed but I am working on the reloading bench at present. One quandary I have is trying to figure out what/how to go about a means of allowing for quick change out of presses. I have 7 presses that I use for varying reloading of over 30 different cartridges and to have them all installed permanently on the bench would make it way too big for the room.

So I have been trawling the web looking for ideas on how to go about this. Yes, I've seen the plates etc made by other companies but I'm not sold on these, not to mention the cost of setting it all up. What I have been considering is a steel plated permanently fixed to the bench, which has a raised lip on three sides. Each press will have a plate permanently fixed to it which then slots into the corresponding bench plate. Slide the press into place and then anchor it down, just how I'm no 100% certain of but am working on it. From my understanding this should allow for a solid method of anchoring the plate/press to the bench and prevent any movement during heavy sizing operations etc.

I'll try and sort out some pics of the current progress and get them up here.

Would not say no to any ideas for the quick change press system. Never hurts to explore all options eh.

My quick change system is based on 6"x6"x1/4" plates, that have a hole in each corner, that I found at a local steel supply store at a cost of $4 each.
In comparison, the Lee bench plate base with one press plate costs $21 and $11.20 for each additional press plate.
Here's one I modified:

I have a plate bolted under everyone of my presses, thru T-nuts, so no tapping required.
Mounting them at 45 degrees gets the side holes further on the bench, not on the edge like the typical press bolt pattern and the 3rd bolt as far away from the edge so the press doesn't rock fore and aft when loading.

I have only 3 bolts(actually pieces of threaded rod) thru the bench, with T-nuts underneath the bench.

I only have one press on my bench at one time and store the others on a shelf, held there with one stud each.
Works for me,

[David2011]

Sorry if I'm repeating a post in this thread. I made a number of mounting plates from both 1/2" aircraft ply for trimmers and powder measures and 1/2" steel for presses and swager. All of the plates have the same mounting pattern drilled in them. Each steel plate is also drilled and tapped for the tool that's mounted on it. The bench has threaded brass inserts set in it in a matching pattern. Any plate can be mounted at any position. In retrospect, the steel plates cold have been 3/8" and would still be plenty stiff. I don't think I would reduce the thickness of the ply to 3/8" because I used blind nuts recessed into the bottoms of the ply plates to hold the screws that hold the tools.

The plates are secured to the bench with 1/4" socket head capscrews and a T handled hex wrench so it's fast and easy to remove a piece and install another.

[onelight]

My quick change system is based on 6"x6"x1/4" plates, that have a hole in each corner, that I found at a local steel supply store at a cost of $4 each.
In comparison, the Lee bench plate base with one press plate costs $21 and $11.20 for each additional press plate.
Here's one I modified:

I have a plate bolted under everyone of my presses, thru T-nuts, so no tapping required.
Mounting them at 45 degrees gets the side holes further on the bench, not on the edge like the typical press bolt pattern and the 3rd bolt as far away from the edge so the press doesn't rock fore and aft when loading.

I have only 3 bolts(actually pieces of threaded rod) thru the bench, with T-nuts underneath the bench.

I only have one press on my bench at one time and store the others on a shelf, held there with one stud each.
Works for me,

Those plates are a good idea . Even something similar made from 1/4 to 3/8 aluminum (can be worked with wood working tools) bolts like this might be nice to.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...navid=12103961

[JeepHammer]

Well this thread has clearly shown that there are as many ways to build a bench as there are people reloading, with no right or wrong way to proceed.

Today I was able to get the mounting holes drilled and the steel plate attached to the benchtop. All I can say is WoW! This thing is rock steady and doesn't budge one bit. I tested it with the ABLP mounted and ran a few cases thru the sizing die. So far lovin what I'm seeing!

Setting that press back behind the line of force makes a HUGE difference.
When I saw the notched plate, and the plate countersunk into the top, I could tell you threw some IQ points and work into it...

Just some ideas for the future...
When I spot a stainless steel fridge or freezer, I always ask the owner to give me a call when it gives up.
I have tin snips & panel cutter, and with a pre-formed 90* bend for the front edge of the bench top, I always figure there are at least two stainless tops per appliance!

Stainless is stupid expensive, but the 'WOW!' factor of a stainless top is off the charts.
Old fridges/freezers solve the expense issues.

1/4 Round on the sides/back keep things from rolling away!
After chasing about a million primers & cases, not to mention another million screws & springs, my WIFE got tired of helping me look for things and brought home some 1/4 round.
One of the obvious details my pea brain didn't connect the dots on...

Like in my pictures, I used a 'Fly' cutter to make perfectly sized holes in a board for the 'Turrets' (tool heads) instead of having everything laying around on their sides.
Search 'Fly Cutter For Wood', usually under $20. A pain to use but makes any size larger hole without buying cutting cups for each size.

The brass pins I use are 1/4" brass rod from the hardware store, hack saw & my Lee style case deburring tool to champfer the edges.
1/4" still fits the hole in case holders, and no rust/wear on the tooling.

Hope some of this helps.

[JeepHammer]

I know it's over kill. Braces every foot First build. Wanted to make sure it lasts a long time. I plan on adding a 3rd post leg, front and rear. dead center

Those joist hangers are under $1 each and and make the entire brace support load (opposed to end screwing) so in my opinion, they are worth every penny!
No splitting out an end screw and having a soggy deck.

A 250 pound man will be able to jump up & down on that deck supported by 2x4s and it's not going anywhere!

I always screw the top to the braces & frame, makes things rock solid.
When someone complains I put screws through the top, I point out spot filler & paint, or some surface covering that comes later...
You glue that **** down, or the presses/bolts hold it down, the bench being solid is more important!

[onelight]

Those plates are a good idea . Even something similar made from 1/4 to 3/8 aluminum (can be worked with wood working tools) bolts like this might be nice to.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...navid=12103961

Here is another cheaper source for handle bolts.
https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/f...ardware/levers