Newbie, Starting the Learning Curve, Sorta

[lightman]

Welcome Aboard! And Welcome to the hobby of reloading and casting.

You can learn to reload by reading and asking questions. The guys on here are very knowledgable and some are very good at explaining things. Still, it would be easier if you had a mentor. Theres probably a member that lives near you or perhaps some older guy from the local gun store of shooting range would be willing to help.

You should easily be able to disassemble the tools to give them a cleaning. On the scale, just carefully lift the beam off of the cradle and wipe or brush away any dirt or grime. It looks like the scale is a type that uses a light oil in the reservoir to dappen the scale movements.

Give the rams on the press and sizer a light rubbing with 1200 grit emory cloth or 0000 steel wool. Mineral spirits should cut any oil or grime off of the painted surfaces. Steel wool should polish up the moving parts of the powder measure.

Any reloading dies can be cleaned in the same way you clean the barrels of your guns.

Sorry for the loss of your Dad. It looks like he was a serious reloader by the quality of his equipment. I hope you learn to use it and enjoy it.

[mdi]

Just re-looking at the Redding scale. Is it "oil dampened"? Is there a little "well" under the pivot and a small "paddle" attached to the beam that extends down into the well? I have a couple oil dampened scales and while they work quite well, they can be messy (I don't leave any tools out after use. I clean them up and store them. Filling the well and emptying it when done sometimes gets oily/messy. I use mineral oil in mine).

[ulav8r]

An oil damped scale works just fine without oil. Just need to learn how to operate it.

I use a dipper to put powder in the pan. Hold the pointer end of the beam up as you put the powder in the pan, this stops the wide swings. Release the beam gently to keep movment to a minimum and trickle to zero. If the pan does start to swing, a gentle touch can stop it and speed the process. It takes only a few seconds to dip, trickle and dump a load.

[EddieZoom]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading.

For new (newer) reloaders I suggest a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. While there are others out there, the ABCs shows how to, equipment used, component explanations, and even a bit about bullet casting. Your equipment is first rate, good quality equipment (I've always wanted Hollywood press!), and a others stated above, get a good reloading manual, clean up the tools and you'll be ready to start.

A couple hints; for starting with 9mm, find a load (tried and true "classic") in your manual before you buy components, and I suggest a 124-125 gr. jacketed bullet, with a "universal" powder. Begin with book starting loads and, if necessary, work up. I use the "plunk test" for all my semi-auto handloads and start with bullet manufacturer's recommended OAL for the bullet I choose (I shoot a bunch of RMR 124 gr. JHP which are identical to Nosler's bullets so I use Nosler bullet data).

Also, my Rule #1, which I suggest to every reloader and especially new fellers is; I pay little attention (none) to any load data I see on any forum, from any range rat, gun counter clerk, good intentioned friend, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. I get 98% of my starting loads from published reloading manuals (forget the "one caliber" pamphlets as good reloading manuals have way more good info than just recipes), and just a few from powder manufacturer websites. I keep a log of every load (bullet, case, powder, powder charge [min and max], primer, OAL and crimp, and anything else that would refer to the load. In the "after shooting" notes I record best groups, shooting characteristics like recoil, muzzle blast, date shot, time of day and weather, etc.), and refer to that for subsequent loads, and I always include maximum load data.

I started reloading in '69 (with a Lee Loader) and using common sense and my Rule #1, I have had only one squib (1970) and no Kabooms or near Kabooms...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

Great Advice.

[RED BEAR]

I think that is some nice equipment i would have no problem using it myself. You can get a free manual from alliant powder just call. I would suggest picking up several they are sorta cheap on ebay. Also there are no bad questions so feel free to ask . I have been reloading for over 40 years and i still learn new stuff. Welcome aboard and happy casting.

[15meter]

Before I would try using that vintage mold I would treat it like a new mold. Read up on CLEANING and prepping new molds. After sitting for a number of years it has probably acquired a patina that will make casting good boolits a challenge.

[mdi]

Regarding an oil dampened scale; some folks complain (loudly) about Lee scales taking forever to settle, but they are much faster than an oil dampened scale without oil. I have 2 OD scales (I can't pass up a bargain) and if using one dry and I can drop a charge, go have lunch, come back and the beam is just settling...

[44magLeo]

I can't add much to what has been said but Welcome to the club.
You may find the reloading won't save you much money because you will shoot more. Not a problem because shooting more is just that much more fun.
On manuals, I have many. I like the Lyman books because they give data on several brands of components. Brand name manuals give plenty of data on their stuff.
They all have important info in the front on many topics.
I like the way the Hornaday book explains the fit and function of cases in the firearm and several ways of reloading.
I like the Lee book because it has a lot of good load info. They don't shoot it themselves but buy it the manufactures. They have a very good section on Cast lead bullets and loads. Very informative for cast bullets.
I like to compare what each book has for load data. Doing this I can spot loads that seem a bit odd.
I find a lot of data on the web. I also compare this to the books.
I don't think you can have to many books. Lee, Lyman, Sierra, Hornady, Speer. I have several of each. dating from the early 70's.
On your equipment, it all looks great from here. just clean up, lube and use.
How many die sets that your father used do you have?
Leo

[Captain*Kirk]

Hope to hear more from you once you get set up. Go slow, read a lot, and ask questions before charging ahead and you'll do fine. Your gear appears to be in great shape, BTW!

[3006guns]

Welcome to the forum and the greatest hobby around. Your shooting costs will go down and the "curiosity bug" will bite you as you learn more and more.

So much information has already been given that I'll just add a couple of comments....

I'd suggest WD40 as a cleaning agent. It's not a very good oil for anything, but it cleans old crud very well. Spray, let soak, wipe off crud.

That Hollywood Senior press is outstanding. Accurate, dependable and (obviously) long lived. Get some 0000 steel or bronze wool and use WD40 to polish the cylindrical part. A smooth, oiled surface means less work. You may need an adapter so that it can use modern shell holders. Hopefully you can locate the priming stems, otherwise you'll need a separate priming tool.

I would consider a more up to date, magnetic dampened scale whenever you can afford it. I have several old Redding and Pacific scales like yours, and they take forever to settle down. A slight draft can cause them to oscillate for a LONG time, and maybe never settle. Go magnetic ASAP.

Your father had good taste in equipment. Many have started off with far less!

As mentioned, get a good, up to date manual and read it before anything else. Don't understand something? Ask here and you'll get answers from good folks who enjoy their hobby. Again, welcome!

[JeepHammer]

BUY OR DOWNLOAD RELOADING MANUALS!

Some folks go to 'YouTube' videos, but they leave a **** ton of stuff out while teaching bad habits...
Manuals won't steer you the wrong way.

Welcome to the sickness!

The Lube/Sizer is for making sure cast bullets are the correct diameter, are round (some older molds weren't quite round) and when you add lube, it lubes the grooves in lead bullets.
Most of us buy copper jacket bullets that don't need lubed, but plenty still cast bullets that do need lube.

The scale & powder thrower are pretty straight forward, play with them a little to figure out how they work.

I don't see a cleaner...
This is as simple as a jar with lid, some soap & hot water,
Or you can get a vibration type cleaner & dry media fairly inexpensive.
There are a bunch of cleaning methods & machines, but soap, water & a pickle jar will get you started.

Hint: No matter what you choose, soap & water clean the oily crud off and make your dry polish media last much longer, providing you want brand new looking, ultra shiny brass.

Practice throwing propellant (powder) loads with corn meal or cleaning media.
(No acids to attack your equipment...)
This will get you used to adjustments, the scale, etc.

From your father's/grandfather's time there is a trend towards crimped primers.
They didn't have to deal with this (unless they reloaded military brass), but a LOT of civilian brass has crimped primers.
Look this up so you recognize a crimped primers when you see it, and about every manufacturer makes a crimp removal tool of some kind.
The crimp only needs to be removed ONCE, so don't discount crimped brass for reloading, but it's not likely your gear has any crimp remover tools in it.

Read the reloading manuals,
Ask as many questions as you have, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask,
Practice the deprime (punch out old primer),
The resize of the brass,
Inserting the new primer (just called priming),
Charging (propellant 'Powder') the case,
And seating bullets, make a few 'Dummies' (no powder) to get the size/length (die adjustments) correct,
Then do a few test loads.

If you ask around at the local gun shops, you will probably find someone that can help locally.
If the guy starts telling you to buy some specific brand of equipment, find someone else...
The last thing you need learning is a 'Fan Boy'.

If you read the manuals, you will pretty quickly figure out if the guy knows what he is doing...
Try not to pick up bad habits,
Only ONE powder can on the bench at a time, mixing powders always sucks.
Keep powder covered! Primers CAN go off when you handle them, and you don't want a fire.

Get good safety glasses AND WEAR THEM!
I hang mine on the press so I have to remove them to do any loading...
I am the kind of guy that will forget otherwise.

Work on your process,
Inspection of brass at every step, remove cracks, chewed up rims, most dings & dents will resize, but kinks in the metal or mouth damage needs scrapped...

With a 'Universal' decapping die (primer punch) knock all the primers out of empty brass,
Clean all brass, and if necessary, dry them or get the dust off (rolling them around in an old towel works for me),

With a single press, set up for resize of all brass,
Some will need a further step of mouth flair,
Then prime your brass.

Once inspected as you go,
You will probably be ready to charge the case ('Powder'/Propellant),
And seat the bullet.
This will mean a LOT of charged cases, so get a loading block to keep organized (inexpensive).

Then back into the press with the bullet seater die, some of these do a crimp of the case on the bullet at the same time, which is why you make some 'Dummies' to learn how these dies work and get them set up correctly.

For Propellant charge weight, STICK TO THE MANUALS!
Published data ONLY!
Most manufacturers have websites that will give you this data for free,
And gun shops get flyers from manufacturers with new load data, pick these FREE flyers up!

I usually pick 3 sources and compare to avoid misprints, if two sources agree, it's correct data.

NEVER take some random internet person's word for charge data!
If it's not published, don't do it...

[tankgunner59]

First, welcome to the forum. Second, kudos on not just jumping in and making a mistake. You are at the best reloading forum IMHO and you will get all the info you need from the great people here. I have been reloading for years and I have gotten immeasurable help whenever I asked. +1 on getting a reloading manual, and I too suggest the Lyman's 50th Edition. Read the instructional section in the front and re-read it. I would also suggest later on getting another manual to compliment the first, there are many available, I have a total of six. There is one problem, your Dad was right it is a very enjoyable addiction, er, I mean hobby and the more you reload the more you will want to. Enjoy and be safe.

[T_McD]

Best advice I can give is to pick your preferred learning medium (book, video, etc.) and jump in. I cringe when I think of my first reloads, but they worked fine.

It’s not rocket science and don’t let anyone convince you it’s complicated, cuz it’s not.