RCBS Pro-Melt II

[Burnt Fingers]

I've had my PM II for a few months now. It's a great pot. The mold guide is great for most boolit molds. Sucks for Do-It lure and sinker molds. The PID is nice and holds set temp very well, even with a big fan keeping my fat butt cool. The minimum flow rate is a bit higher than the minimum flow rate on my original PM. If I were to remove the lock nut I could get the flow rate down to the same as the PM.

My biggest gripe with it is there is no on/off switch. Also to keep the PID in good working condition you're supposed to set it to 0 when you're done and not unplug the pot till it's cooled. With a full pot this takes a couple hours at a minimum. There's some fan noise from the PID but for us old shooters it's not bad. Helps mask the tinnitus.

Overall I've very happy with the pot. I caught it on sale and would not hesitate to buy another if I ever have the need for three pots.

[Petrol & Powder]

Just curious

If you just unplug it when it's hot, what is the damage to the PID?

[kevin c]

I'd never heard that about PIDs. I just pull the probe from the melt, turn the unit off and unplug the pot and the power cord. I just set the probe on top of the hardened alloy the next time around: it usually slides right in as the pot melts the alloy. This is more convenient than letting the probe freeze into the alloy in the pot and having to deal with the tangle of cords and PID along with the pot (can you tell I don't have a dedicated casting area?).

Thanks for the review. I have a refurbished Promelt with a 4-20 feeder that serves my needs, but will keep the newer version in mind if I ever need a replacement.

[Burnt Fingers]

The PID probe in the PM II is inside the housing as are all the electronics.

The manual says that failing to let the pot cool will damage the electronics.

[Dragonheart]

My old Pro Melt is over 10 years old and has worked without incident in all that time casting tens of thousands of bullets (35K just recently). But one thing I have always worried about is the day I flip the switch and it doesen't work. For that reason I always empty the pot when I finish a casting session, so I would not like to shut down a full pot. Shipping a furnace for repair with 20 pounds of lead or melting 20 pounds out with a torch, neither would be a good choice.

[Randy Bohannon]

Unplugging causes the fan to shut off so no cooling other than ambient air and that will cook the electronics, it needs the fan until cold.

[KenT7021]

The Lyman Mag25 has no such caution in the owners manual.I've been using mine for around two years by simply unplugging when done without a problem.May be because the location of components is different.

[Petrol & Powder]

Unplugging causes the fan to shut off so no cooling other than ambient air and that will cook the electronics, it needs the fan until cold.

That's a poor design.
There should be switch to turn the heater off and the fan should be wired into the circuit before the main power switch. The fan could simply run until a pre-set temperature is reached and is cut off by an independent thermostat.

[WehrmannsGeweher]

Glad I have the earlier version, has switch and uses an NOE themometer.

[Dragonheart]

Glad I have the earlier version, has switch and uses an NOE themometer.

Ditto that!

[kevin c]

OK, now I get it. My PIDs are stand alone units, not integral. Two different beasties as far as cooling issues.

[odfairfaxsub]

My old Pro Melt is over 10 years old and has worked without incident in all that time casting tens of thousands of bullets (35K just recently). But one thing I have always worried about is the day I flip the switch and it doesen't work. For that reason I always empty the pot when I finish a casting session, so I would not like to shut down a full pot. Shipping a furnace for repair with 20 pounds of lead or melting 20 pounds out with a torch, neither would be a good choice.

I believe this will prob drive you to repairville quicker than not. I think it says in the instructions not to let the last quarter of the pot sit empty when trying to operate and draining your pot everytime is doing just that each time you turn it on.

[Dragonheart]

I believe this will prob drive you to repairville quicker than not. I think it says in the instructions not to let the last quarter of the pot sit empty when trying to operate and draining your pot everytime is doing just that each time you turn it on.

Good advice but my pot is not on when I drain it. I don't actually completely empty it either I am going to clean it, but that is only done occasionally. I turn turn the pot off and drain out all but about about a 1/2". I leave a small amount in the pot as it speeds up melting on the next session.

[Mal Paso]

The heating element is rod coiled around the lower portion of the pot. If there is no lead on the other side of the pot's wall from the element to absorb heat, the temperature skyrockets and wear accelerates. Not totally avoidable but I don't run my Pro Melt 2 down below an inch. I am used to a 20 pound pot so the 25 pounder is easier. I also leave mine full between sessions. If it breaks while full I assume I got a certified letter from the manufacturer to find out why. Pop rivets beware! LOL

[lightman]

Its good to read an actual review on these. With all of the cheap stuff from china one is almost afraid to spend this much money on something! I don't like the lack of an on/off switch. I would probably look into adding one, or wiring up a switched outlet for it. I was in the electrical business so thats easy for me to say!

[Dragonheart]

Its good to read an actual review on these. With all of the cheap stuff from china one is almost afraid to spend this much money on something! I don't like the lack of an on/off switch. I would probably look into adding one, or wiring up a switched outlet for it. I was in the electrical business so thats easy for me to say!

Actually, I have been thinking about adding a timer to as mine just in case I get old age distracted and forget to turn it off, but and auto shut-off would be a safety device for all. I am not in the electrical business, but installing a junction box on the line would be an easy task.

[Smk SHoe]

Ive had mine for a few months and really like it except for this weekend. Got a piece of crude in the nozzle and was a bear to clean out ( two full dissasseblies). Not happy with the design of the nozzle. To turn off pot I usually drain to about two inches and set for 100 degrees and put as many cold ingots in the pot as will fit. Cools the pot really fast and then easier to get back to temp the next casting session.

[Burnt Fingers]

Ive had mine for a few months and really like it except for this weekend. Got a piece of crude in the nozzle and was a bear to clean out ( two full dissasseblies). Not happy with the design of the nozzle. To turn off pot I usually drain to about two inches and set for 100 degrees and put as many cold ingots in the pot as will fit. Cools the pot really fast and then easier to get back to temp the next casting session.

Duh! I never thought of that. Thanks for the tip.

[David2011]

Concerned about leaving a pot on, I got a pair of the timers like you see around hot tubs, saunas, locker rooms and ball fields. They were installed in metal junction boxes along with duplex outlets and short cords. One is for the Pro Melt and the other is for the brass polisher. I just set ‘em for the desired time and worries about forgetting are eliminated. I especially like being able to set the polisher’s run time so it runs long enough without any attention.

[Captain*Kirk]

The cool-down factor scares me. I might have to spring for a Lee Magnum Melter because of that reason. RCBS is my brand of choice but that's a lot of $$ for a lead pot that might fry. What if you blow a fuse or breaker?