The sizer solved most of the problem. Almost no nose deformation in 10mm or 40SW. The lead hardness is just about perfect for the 40 at around 900 or so fps. The 10mm is just too fast to retain lead. Maybe the cup points won't shed as much.
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The 10mm bullet, soft alloy, deep hollow point, shot in water just for kicks compared to the 40SW.
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Last edited by klenke.ryan; 03-29-2019 at 06:12 PM.
Sorry for all the posting, I ended up turning this into a range report instead of just a question. I'm sold on the wheel weight only cup points in the 10mm. Easier to cast, no deformation while seating, decent expansion/retention at 10mm velocities. I'll reserve the soft alloy/deep hollow points for my dad's 40SW. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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Maybe I missed it, but are you sure you are getting 1450 fps with the 10mm auto? That would have to be a rifle.
You may want to try adding a little copper to your alloy. It will do little for hardness but will make it a lot less bridle and tougher.
I was getting 1450 with the 155 grain out of my RIA 1911. I never chrono'd the 165. My AR with 8 inch barrel chrono'd 1600. Those are at max, I'll be watering down.Originally Posted by megasupermagnum
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I would definitely back down, you are over pressure. I've seen 1350 fps with a 165 gr GD from a 6" EAA witness hunter, and it was a hefty charge of bluedot, now over new book maximum. The 10mm seems to work better with 180+ grain bullets.
No doubt it's a little over book pressure. I have slowly worked up to those velocities and have the correct recoil and main spring weights as well as flat bottom firing pin stop with fully supported chamber, so definitely wouldn't recommend in a stock Glock or Hi-Point carbine.
I like to know my limits so when I reload plinking rounds, I know my margins.
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