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Thread: Kahr Arms Magazine Release Rusts, What To Plate Or Coat With?

  1. #1
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    Kahr Arms Magazine Release Rusts, What To Plate Or Coat With?

    I have a Kahr CW45 that is an edc, it's stainless and polymer, why in the world Kahr would use a cast carbon steel magazine release is beyond me. They know about the problem, it renders the gun inoperable once the current magazine is emptied you can't drop it out without a hammer! Yet no solution or suggestions from Kahr. And now that mine has passed the 4yr warranty period, they wouldn't even toss one my way so I had to buy one but I have a new one to work with.

    Do I send it to Robar and have them do the NP3 on it? Do I buy the kit and do it with electroless nickel at home? Parkerized maybe? Who does nickel or ceracote or something durable that would take on one small part such as a magazine catch?
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  2. #2
    Boolit Bub
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    I realize it isn't helpful but, why would you neglect the PM on your gun to the point where parts are freezing up due to rust?

    Anyway, soak it in kroil or, even, automatic transmission fluid for 24 hours. Attempt to move the mag release. Maybe even tap it with a 4oz hammer and punch. If it doesn't move, soak it another 24 hours and try again. It'll move, the key is take it slowly, the tapping will help the fluid penetrate.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I have found the bike chain lubes(actually waxes) to be very good at contrroling rust on my wade fishing revolver. Boeshield is used as anti corrosion on airframes, or so I hear. It is parafin based.
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  4. #4
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    the np3 or np3+ would be the way to go IMO.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Take a look at the slide releases for the CW45 and PM45 they are different material and the PM version will not rust.
    Look at the pics and you will see a mold seam along the top edge of the CW45 release and a grainier surface, but NO seam on the PM45 version as it is different material:
    https://shopkahrfirearmsgroup.com/pi...top-028w45.asp
    https://shopkahrfirearmsgroup.com/pi...top-028p45.asp

    Buried deep in the Kahr website you will find a description that explains why the C series pistol have some different/cheaper parts, only one mag, and a different barrel to be sold at a lower price point.
    It also says this "a milled vs cast slide release" with the cast being on the C series.
    So, buy the PM45 slide stop (SKU:028P45) a machined part, call Kahr to confirm it will fit, and your rust should not return.
    jmo
    Last edited by Kenstone; 03-24-2019 at 12:00 AM.

  6. #6
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    It sounds like they may have not neutralized the bluing salts. Scrub it down with Coke or Mt. Dew, and see it it stops.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Clean the part with Acetone , then boil in Distilled water for about a half hour.
    That will basically turn the Red Rust to Black Oxide or the same as Slow Rust Bluing.
    You may have to buff off any remaining Red Rust with Degreased steel wool, and boil it again then oil it with light machine oil.
    This is what I do for small parts on old Mil Surps that I want to stay as original as I can.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    Take a look at the slide releases for the CW45 and PM45 they are different material and the PM version will not rust.
    I am talking about the magazine release not the slide stop. My slide stop is cast but it doesn't rust, why didn't they make the magazine release the same way or at least make it out of the same material.

    So far it looks like $12 for a new magazine release, $3.10 for shipping, then send it to Robar with $30 for NP3 coating and $8 for handling. Almost $60 for a magazine release that won't rust. Ugh..
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I would try post 6, post 7, before spending 60$. I have one as well, but no problem as you are having. Worst case, bead blast it and rust blue it.
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    I am talking about the magazine release not the slide stop. My slide stop is cast but it doesn't rust, why didn't they make the magazine release the same way or at least make it out of the same material.

    So far it looks like $12 for a new magazine release, $3.10 for shipping, then send it to Robar with $30 for NP3 coating and $8 for handling. Almost $60 for a magazine release that won't rust. Ugh..
    OH OK, my bad
    Looks like the slide release part number is the same for all 45s.
    I'd try cold bluing it as suggested,
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    You may have tried it , but the Hornady one shot gun cleaner and lube penetrates extremely well and dries guickly the application tube will put right where you need it. Spray blow out to clean out dirt old lube and exces and spray again to lube.
    It may not fix the old one but with regular application may keep the new one working.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check