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Thread: Depriming PSD .223/5.56 brass

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    5.56 can be a real bugger. Tite crimp and small flash holes are common on non - US surplus. I gave away a large lot of Austrian 5.56 that had extra small flash holes. I worked over a small RCBS primer punch and got them to work but it was such a PITA and there is so much brass out there that I gave up and sold it along with the punch to a guy that was looking for cheap brass. Shame too, it was really nice brass and shot so well on the first go round (loaded surplus) If the flash hole is not the issue, I recommend the Lee deprimer die. I almost hate to admit this but the Lee deprimer die is superior to the RCBS. Although the Lyman die is good to. I am not familiar with the Hornaday but they make some good stuff also. When I first started out reloading (30-06) I used the Wilson system and it works but is slow. I have the same set up for 5.56 but use it seldom(onesies and twosies) like I said it is slow. As I said before, there is so much brass out there for the 5.56 that unless you got thousands of empties for free maybe you should just call it a lose - lose deal and buy some processed brass. The reloading hobby is supposed to be fun and depriming and processing military cases is just about the worst part of it, no sense in making it any worse that it is! Sorry I could not be be more helpful.

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub skud007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moleman- View Post
    For the necks getting pushed down in the shoulders I'd think that was caused by lack of lube inside the necks. I really like the Lee collet system to retain the decapping stem and was a little disappointed when Hornady went to the zip style that doesn't seem to always locate the stem on center and took away the ability for it to easily slip.
    I agree. It only happened on one case and then after that I stopped. I am in the process now, hand lubing them with the lee lube and so far so good. Going a little slower and adjusted the decapping pin a little longer. So far so good! They are actually coming out pretty well so far.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub skud007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Binky View Post
    5.56 can be a real bugger. Tite crimp and small flash holes are common on non - US surplus. I gave away a large lot of Austrian 5.56 that had extra small flash holes. I worked over a small RCBS primer punch and got them to work but it was such a PITA and there is so much brass out there that I gave up and sold it along with the punch to a guy that was looking for cheap brass. Shame too, it was really nice brass and shot so well on the first go round (loaded surplus) If the flash hole is not the issue, I recommend the Lee deprimer die. I almost hate to admit this but the Lee deprimer die is superior to the RCBS. Although the Lyman die is good to. I am not familiar with the Hornaday but they make some good stuff also. When I first started out reloading (30-06) I used the Wilson system and it works but is slow. I have the same set up for 5.56 but use it seldom(onesies and twosies) like I said it is slow. As I said before, there is so much brass out there for the 5.56 that unless you got thousands of empties for free maybe you should just call it a lose - lose deal and buy some processed brass. The reloading hobby is supposed to be fun and depriming and processing military cases is just about the worst part of it, no sense in making it any worse that it is! Sorry I could not be be more helpful.
    Luckily I don't have too much of this brass. Around 20 or 30 cases. I had already seperated them a while back and now I know why I did lol. I must've had trouble before and then sorted them. The depriming and processing is a little troublesome, but I find it a little therapeutic Kind've like washing dishes by hand lol

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold
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    Just deprimed and resized a couple hundred PSD cases yesterday with a fairly new to me RCBS small base resizing die. No problems encountered with them, seems like good workable brass. Cases that cause me trouble are foreign military cases. Some are so tough I tossed them, it’s not worth breaking pins, also not like 223 brass is hard to find either. I did have trouble with my first 223 die set, the deprime pin/rod kept getting pushed up. The RCBS universal deprime and small base die sets are doing well.
    Basic process: sort by headstamps, then deprime/ resize them in batches. If a certain brand is too difficult, set them aside.
    Last edited by DoubleBit; 12-20-2019 at 07:44 PM.

  5. #25
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    I'm with TNsailorman's advice-- depending on what volume we're talking about. Using a Lee de-capping punch and base will let you de-cap smaller quantities of military crimped brass. Then, use either a Lyman hand primer pocket reamer to remove the crimp or an RCBS primer pocket swager. Thereafter the brass can be de-primed with the sizing die for subsequent re-loadings.

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub
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    Dec 2008
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    I had about half a five gallon bucket of that Austrian 5.56 brass with the tiny flash hole. I placed this tool
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101759217?pid=635539
    in my drill press and opened up the flash hole to the standard 0.080" size and "Americanized" all of them. Problem solved.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    GONRA sez ya'll just have to be a "good sport" with Foreign Mfg. BOXER primer pocket with Too Small Flashholes.
    (Segregate Range Pickups with a set of number drills or pin gages.)

    RCBS has Spring Loaded Decapping Pins that are supposed to deal with the "Boxer Primer Anvil sticking to the Decapping Pin" issue.
    Assume they are marketed to Progressive Press guys, but should have other applications....

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    For 20-30 pieces just use a long punch and a hammer, no need to overthink it.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I am a hoarder of brass but for those few cases unless I was really short of that particular cartridge .... I would sack them up and stash them. As cartridges go being short of 5.56 or 223 right now is not really likely.

    Beyond the flash hole issue, those few cases of the same head stamp is a dead end if you sort and load head stamps separately.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    I had a large amount of malaysian 5.56 brass. Way undersized flash holes. Ordered a couple punch and base sets from wilson and although no more damage with bent decapping stems if a case got stuck easy to get off. Then they came out with the flash hole uniformer and my woes were ended. Frank

  11. #31
    Banned


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    I use the Lee Universal Decapping die. I have found with it if I use very slow steady pressure on the operating handle I can push out about 98% of the military crimped primers.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    The PSD brass is PMC 5.56 if memory serves me right. I have a decent amount of it and actually like it. I use the older style Lee decapper pins on them usually (the kind with the pressed in dowel pin) They are smaller in diameter. My RCBS decapper didn't last too long so I only use the Lee now.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    No part of case neck internals will contact any part of a die so grease 'em up if you like but it won't mean a thing.

  14. #34
    Boolit Man mf79's Avatar
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    I use a pin on a rod, not sure of mfg but you hammer it in primer hole with brass in metal holder, it removes military crimp and sealed primers

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub
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    I saved myself lots of headaches and got either a fw arms (for the mark7 1050) and mighty armory with hardened pins for non automated presses never another problem getting out crimped primers
    Not a Marxist or supporter of any Marxist organization not matter what their name is

    NRA Life Member

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    skud007, Good question. I bought my punch and base sets quite sometime ago,like over 25 years. So to be honest I've never measured the pin. I once had a lot of Malayaian brass that was made in Hing Kong and these cases were known for having undersized flash holes. Luckily a local gun shop had both the 5.56 & 30-06/7.62 Nato punch and base sets. In any event,I like to deprime and prime my brass separately from which ever press I'm using to reload the brass. This keeps the junk and crud out of the ram area. I'll clean primer pockets with the small or large brush again separately for the same reason. I have a K & M hand primer for both large and small primers. So basically just pour in the powder and seat the bullet which may be cast or jacketed. Frank

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check