SS pistols and crud on the cylinder...

[Bigslug]

1. Buy a brand new stainless revolver.

2. Transport it home in your scratch-free 4WD that never goes off road.

3. NEVER shoot it. Only shoot your other guns.

4. Only ever look at the cylinder face of that one.




The Lead-Away wiping cloths (which will remove bluing) do a very good job on it, but really, what's the point on a working firearm? The black "blast ring" is imprinted at the gun's peak pressure - but it harms nothing, and the work required to get it off is WAY out of proportion to the one shot it takes to put it back on.

Clean it off when you are getting it ready to sell the gun. Otherwise, ignore.

[Rick Hodges]

Ditto /\

And another old trick is to use a pencil eraser.

We always used and old typewriter eraser...one made for ink. It might be a bit abrasive but worked quickly and pretty well.

[mattw]

Which version of Mothers are you all using? The one for wheels or the billet one?

[Beagle333]

Flitz and a paper towel.

[tja6435]

Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth will clean that all up with a quickness

[mattw]

I will have to order one of the lead cloths, used them years ago and was happy with them. I have check all of the local sources and they are dry in the package and have been on the shelves for years in a couple of places. I hate to buy one that may be dried up and not work well, as they are not cheap for a somewhat disposable item.

[Petrol & Powder]

I will have to order one of the lead cloths, used them years ago and was happy with them. I have check all of the local sources and they are dry in the package and have been on the shelves for years in a couple of places. I hate to buy one that may be dried up and not work well, as they are not cheap for a somewhat disposable item.

They are sealed in a plastic bag when they are new and I've never had a problem when one even after I open the original bag. Just seal it back up after use.

I also cut off a little section for each use so that the remainder of the cloth stays clean. A little 1.5" square is all you need to clean a stainless revolver. I rarely clean the burn marks off the cylinder of a stainless gun so a full cloth lasts me well over a year.

[tazman]

Those of you using even very fine abrasives need to rethink that a bit. If you use those abrasives very often on the front of your cylinder, you will, over time, be creating a larger cylinder gap and cause a drop in velocity on that account.
Granted, it will take some time, but people who are religious about cleaning that part of their revolver will have it happen sooner rather than later.

[nawagner]

Which version of Mothers are you all using? The one for wheels or the billet one?

Mag and Aluminum Polish

[nicholst55]

You mean that black ring isn't supposed to be there? I don't much worry about it, myself.

[bobthenailer]

A+ for Flitz metal polish

[mattw]

I tried Mothers and it worked well, also have a lead cloth on order. I really want to just clean the front about 1 time per year in the fall for storage. Just running late this year.

[gwpercle]

Ed's Red Bore Solvent and a small brass brush (it looks like a toothbrush but with brass bristles )
a regular hard bristle tooth brush works fairly well but the brass one works best.
Do a search on the recipe for Ed's Red Bore Solvent , you can make it for $20.00 a gallon .
Gary

[mattw]

gwpercle, funny you should mention Ed's Red... I have almost everything to make it, except the time. I have been using 50/50 Pro Shot bore cleaner and Kroil, but want to try Ed's because it is so well thought of here. I am going to leave out the acetone.

[Earlwb]

heck, I don't bother trying to clean the carbon ring off. I leave it alone. Maybe it helps close the gap up a tiny bit.