Lloyd, I do sell my knives. Go to Facebook and search "Hatfield Knives" and you will see photos of the knives I have for sale, including the one you commented on. I make knives using S30V stainless steel, O-1 high carbon steel and Damascus steel. I try to cater to the hunter.
I have tried and own many forms of sharpening tools and have found that the one you LIKE is the best one for you to use. Some are fast, some take longer, etc., but if you don't like the tool and you want a sharp knife you need to find one that you do like - which means you will use it.
When CPM came out with their S30V steel, at the request of knife makers, some knife experts called it "the super steel" due to a stainless steel that held a sharp edge over other steels. It will hold it's sharp edge while field dressing and skinning out several large game animals without having to stop and touch up the cutting edge. The drawback to this sharp edge retention is the fact it is harder for most users to sharpen and they need a good sharpening system such as the Work Sharp or Lansky diamond stones.
I have a lansky knockoff. And half a dozen other types. I also have the KO worksharp. When I first used it I knew that was it, I had found the sharpening system I had spent years looking for.
Darn you Doug, you talked me into getting a new tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=all
Used - Very Good packaging will be damaged 56.95 prime + $7.10 for belts
I'm a stoner also. Been doing it long before all those fancy gadgets came along. Depending on how badly the knife edge is will even use the finer grit on those el cheapo 2 grit stones just to get a basic cutting edge and go from there. One of my buddies calls me up and he was given a couple of those diamond sharpeners. Talk about chewed up. Threw them in the trash and then sharpened the blades. I also do my own plane irons and even a spokeshave I have from England. Trick with plane blades is to make sure the back of the plane blade is as flat as you can make it and after you get a plane blade sharp do a little micro bevel right on the cutting edge and a couple swipes pm the back of the blade to remove any rollover. I have one of the small Stanley block planes that I use to make dutchmen for old target stocks when the owner no longer shoots competitively so no need for the hand stop rail. But it does look like junk with the long 3/8 or 1/2" trough in the forend. The straight part is time consuming as you want the wood to be installed to have a little squeeze out for the glue. The time consuming part is the rounding off of the new wood. Start taking wood off with either a fine file or flat file the teeth have been dulled and wrapped with silicon carbide paper. And I always make the new wood taller than needed even if it means more time spent planing it down and using a piece of hardwood to sand it even with the stock.Just making smaller pieces out of bigger ones. Sand or file to fit apply glue and use some soft faced screw clamps until the glue sets up. Frank
I had one and sold it. They work. No problems with it. I just prefer a different belt sander if i want a convex edge. Or my Edge pro system for sharpening. The Worksharps work and are reasonably priced also.
Hawks Feather makes a lot of sense. I sharpen knives for a living and have used and tested nearly every system available. I probably have over 250 stones and more “systems” than I care to remember.
All of the stones can be made to work. Many of the systems are junk and will quickly ruin your knive. Very few systems will sharpen both straight blades and serrated. The best thing for me may be your worst nightmare.
The Worksharp is utilitarian. It works but it has some shortcomings. So do most of the systems.
Kevin
Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.
I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.
Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |