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Thread: Got A New Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

  1. #21
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    do you sell your knives? Got a web sight? That knife right there is a beauty!
    Quote Originally Posted by knifemaker View Post
    Attachment 238228I make custom hunting knives and my S30V knives heat treated to 60RC are a pain in the butt to resharpen due to the high abrasive resistant steel. They will hold a razor sharp edge for a long time, but it takes longer to re-sharpen then a high carbon steel knife. Even a experienced knife sharper will take longer using wet stones due to the high abrasion alloys in the S30V steel. I recommend the work sharp to my customers if they are not highly experienced in using wet stones or diamond stones.
    The work sharp puts a "CONVEX" edge on the knife which is what I do as I use a special horizontal belt grinder to put the sharp edge on my knives.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    Lloyd, I do sell my knives. Go to Facebook and search "Hatfield Knives" and you will see photos of the knives I have for sale, including the one you commented on. I make knives using S30V stainless steel, O-1 high carbon steel and Damascus steel. I try to cater to the hunter.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Hawks Feather's Avatar
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    I have tried and own many forms of sharpening tools and have found that the one you LIKE is the best one for you to use. Some are fast, some take longer, etc., but if you don't like the tool and you want a sharp knife you need to find one that you do like - which means you will use it.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Moonie do you sharpen with the grit going toward the edge or from the edge?

    Also, do you use the MX belts? Are they the ones to get?
    I sharpen both ways, yes I have the MX belts. I also have a leather belt I use to stropping, with white compound I only use the leather one on direction as you do not want to cut towards it.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by knifemaker View Post
    Lloyd, I do sell my knives. Go to Facebook and search "Hatfield Knives" and you will see photos of the knives I have for sale, including the one you commented on. I make knives using S30V stainless steel, O-1 high carbon steel and Damascus steel. I try to cater to the hunter.
    You make beautiful knives. I do like S30V steel, i carry a folder in that steel every day.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	238934When CPM came out with their S30V steel, at the request of knife makers, some knife experts called it "the super steel" due to a stainless steel that held a sharp edge over other steels. It will hold it's sharp edge while field dressing and skinning out several large game animals without having to stop and touch up the cutting edge. The drawback to this sharp edge retention is the fact it is harder for most users to sharpen and they need a good sharpening system such as the Work Sharp or Lansky diamond stones.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Nodakjohns's Avatar
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    I have a lansky knockoff. And half a dozen other types. I also have the KO worksharp. When I first used it I knew that was it, I had found the sharpening system I had spent years looking for.

  8. #28
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    Darn you Doug, you talked me into getting a new tool

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=all

    Used - Very Good packaging will be damaged 56.95 prime + $7.10 for belts

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I'm a stoner also. Been doing it long before all those fancy gadgets came along. Depending on how badly the knife edge is will even use the finer grit on those el cheapo 2 grit stones just to get a basic cutting edge and go from there. One of my buddies calls me up and he was given a couple of those diamond sharpeners. Talk about chewed up. Threw them in the trash and then sharpened the blades. I also do my own plane irons and even a spokeshave I have from England. Trick with plane blades is to make sure the back of the plane blade is as flat as you can make it and after you get a plane blade sharp do a little micro bevel right on the cutting edge and a couple swipes pm the back of the blade to remove any rollover. I have one of the small Stanley block planes that I use to make dutchmen for old target stocks when the owner no longer shoots competitively so no need for the hand stop rail. But it does look like junk with the long 3/8 or 1/2" trough in the forend. The straight part is time consuming as you want the wood to be installed to have a little squeeze out for the glue. The time consuming part is the rounding off of the new wood. Start taking wood off with either a fine file or flat file the teeth have been dulled and wrapped with silicon carbide paper. And I always make the new wood taller than needed even if it means more time spent planing it down and using a piece of hardwood to sand it even with the stock.Just making smaller pieces out of bigger ones. Sand or file to fit apply glue and use some soft faced screw clamps until the glue sets up. Frank

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    I had one and sold it. They work. No problems with it. I just prefer a different belt sander if i want a convex edge. Or my Edge pro system for sharpening. The Worksharps work and are reasonably priced also.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Hawks Feather makes a lot of sense. I sharpen knives for a living and have used and tested nearly every system available. I probably have over 250 stones and more “systems” than I care to remember.

    All of the stones can be made to work. Many of the systems are junk and will quickly ruin your knive. Very few systems will sharpen both straight blades and serrated. The best thing for me may be your worst nightmare.

    The Worksharp is utilitarian. It works but it has some shortcomings. So do most of the systems.

    Kevin
    Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.

    I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.

    Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check