9mm throat reaming question

[dimaprok]

Bought my first 9mm gun and it's Ruger PC Carbine, after making dummy rounds I noticed that there is no throat, the rifling pretty much right away and digs in to cast boolit, I have to seat it deep but not issues with plated bullets. Spent time reading forum and seems to be common problem and I need the throat reamed so my question is, even though I haven't slugged the barrel (I will) I measured the contact point and it appears to be around .356 I wanted to be able to shoot my cast bullets from .358 molds that I size to .358 without having to size it twice down to 356 or 357. So my question should I pick up this reamer which comes in .355 for 9mm or {.35 cal - .357 cal - .358 cal rifle} I do have lathe but haven't looked into how to remove hand guard / stock from the barrel and front sight in order to chuck it. I think I can machine a proper fit pilot for reamer to avoid buying a set of pilots. What's your recommendations?

P.S. I did want to send to Doug but the shipping and all is a bit cost prohibitive ($90-100)

[egg250]

You could go that route. Seeing as 9mm isn't a tack driving round, I wouldn't be too concerned. If you're loading your own, I'd recommend seating the bullet a bit deeper until it isn't contacting the rifling anymore.

Do you feel that accuracy isn't what it should be?

[dragon813gt]

I’ve had pistols reamed w/ a standard 9mm reamer. No issues loading fatter bullets at proper OAL. Seating them deeper is a poor fix. Non existent throats cause issues w/ some factory bullet profiles so it’s not just related to fat cast bullets.

[Outpost75]

The Ruger carbine has a SAAMI chamber.

For a 9mm carbine to function with anything you want a NATO chamber cut to the NATO Standardization Agreement 4090.

Alternately, if you want to simply rethroat then use a Clymer .35 cal. rifle throating reamer as made for the .35 Remington or .358 Winchester and clean up the ball seat and origin of rifling to a .359" major diameter with .050" cylindrical freebore and 6 degrees Basic forcing cone at origin of rifling.

[Hick]

My Walther P1 won't take a .358 bullet either-- So I PC the cast bullets then size them down to 0.356. They chamber great and shoot great and I get no leading issues.

[Tackleberry41]

No need for a lathe. I bought a 9mm reamer for my AR build. Bought 2 barrels, neither had a throat. Only thing they would work with was 115gr, nothing else. Forget a cast round. I used a threaded rod with a nut against the muzzle, end of the reamer sits on the threaded rod, adjust the depth as needed.

[garandsrus]

I was wondering if there was a “pull through” type treater for this. Similar to what they use to finish reaming a Garand chamber after the barrel is installed.

[dimaprok]

You could go that route. Seeing as 9mm isn't a tack driving round, I wouldn't be too concerned. If you're loading your own, I'd recommend seating the bullet a bit deeper until it isn't contacting the rifling anymore.

Do you feel that accuracy isn't what it should be?

I did seat deeper but for Lee 358-125-rf it has to be deeper considerably and I do want to shoot heavier bullets also which stick out even more. I also don't like fact that rifling doesn't have tapered transition, it's 90 degrees.

[dimaprok]

You can only seat heavier bullets like 150gr so far before you run out of space and the casing begins to bulge / bullet being resized at the rear. It's not a tack driver, but I've seen review and guy was getting something like 1" or 3/4" at 50 yards and I was quite impressed, didn't expect that.

[dimaprok]

I’ve had pistols reamed w/ a standard 9mm reamer. No issues loading fatter bullets at proper OAL. Seating them deeper is a poor fix. Non existent throats cause issues w/ some factory bullet profiles so it’s not just related to fat cast bullets.

What are you sizing them to now? From reading forums I understood that reamer creates freebore and taper in the rifling and the freebore need to fit the protruding bullet otherwise it won't enter the freebore and when round is fired it will get resized farther and there shouldn't be causing leading if there is tapered transition, that's my understanding.

[dimaprok]

The Ruger carbine has a SAAMI chamber.

For a 9mm carbine to function with anything you want a NATO chamber cut to the NATO Standardization Agreement 4090.

Alternately, if you want to simply rethroat then use a Clymer .35 cal. rifle throating reamer as made for the .35 Remington or .358 Winchester and clean up the ball seat and origin of rifling to a .359" major diameter with .050" cylindrical freebore and 6 degrees Basic forcing cone at origin of rifling.

I am not familiar with the NATO standard and if my Ruger chamber has been cut accordingly. Not sure what is "clean up the ball seat" are you referring to the tapered area that will be cut in to rifling? I was thinking of going with what you said a .358-.359 freebore however since I have limited knowledge in this type of of gunsmithing I want to make sure I am not going to to screw up, for example how would this larger freebore effect the factory FMJ bullets that are only .355? I do plan to shoot mostly cast, but I want the gun to handle factory bullets too like Hornady XTP bullets or other jacketed hollow points. Because I rather size cast bullets smaller than give up hollow points accuracy.

[dimaprok]

I was wondering if there was a “pull through” type treater for this. Similar to what they use to finish reaming a Garand chamber after the barrel is installed.

Sounds like a good way to center reamer with proper bushings and all as long as the barrel is straight. I think they use something like that for revolvers too.

[dimaprok]

So, I was wondering if anybody noticed the link I embedded in my first post and any advice regarding this specific reamer - yey or nay .355 or .357/358?

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/6-off..._358_cal_rifle

Plan to shoot mostly cast but love some JHP too, this makes me wonder if I ream to 357/358, maybe I can load my 357 JHP?? They are cheaper than XTP 2x.