I've got a Lyman six hole turret press that I bought. It's frozen up. I've been using PB Blaster on the ram, top and bottom twice a day for almost a week and it's still frozen solid.
Advice?
I've got a Lyman six hole turret press that I bought. It's frozen up. I've been using PB Blaster on the ram, top and bottom twice a day for almost a week and it's still frozen solid.
Advice?
NRA Benefactor.
Boat anchor? might try warm trans oil.
give it to me.
I'lll refurb it.
do you have access to a ultrasonic cleaner?
if so use simple green.
15 minutes in the ultrasonic. followed buy a very hot wash off. wiggle and repeat.
I have gotten loose two seazed shotguns that way.
if you don't
Kroll oil. and a hammer. lots of light tapping.
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Pull the turret off, it needs to come off anyway. Pull the pivot pin for the handle and let it hang free. Try to twist the ram using the handle. Don't over do it and bend the link. Tap the top of the ram with an oak block and a big hammer, again don't get too violent. Tap and twist till it comes loose. Then drive it out of the frame.
I believe you will find very little serious pitting so a polishing the ram and inside the frame is all that is necessary to restore function.
Kroil and a little heat.
Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!
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I used Kroil and a little time over night to free up three older presses that a friend gave me. They had been stored in a leaky shed for years. After using many things to free them up. The Kroil did it over night.
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Soak all the joints with Kroil oil for a few days ram links pivots. Along with bolts and screws. Give it some time to work then work slowly and carefully disassembling it. As to clean up a 3-m scratch pad lightly rubbed with light oil will remove most of what build ups rust is there and not remove any or little metal. Clean all the parts wipe clean with soft cloths and check fits. When reassembling a light coat of grease on ram and pivots as assembled. I have seen several of the newer presses with zerks on the rams you might consider one here while its apart.
If you don't have any Kroil (I didn't hear about it until I started visiting reloading forums), ATF thinned with acetone works. If you choose to use a hammer, try a soft faced dead blow hammer, with caution. I would remove any nuts, bolts, pins, etc. and disassemble as much as possible before applying any force. Afterwards I would use fine emery cloth or crocus cloth and light oil to polish the parts...
My Anchor is holding fast!
Great advice above. If you can soak it might help. Patience!
I'd remove everything that I could
50% ATF / 50% Acetone -- better and cheaper than Kroil -- soak it
I'd use a bar clamp and some wood spacers (around the ram on one side) to break the ram loose. Keep everything straight/in line. I'd alternate directions and go slow.
As tollerances are VERY tight on a ram....use either Kroil or the 50/50 mentioned...and a little touch of heat if you like.
I'd be VERY careful about what you use to polish the ram once you get it apart. I vote for just a little oil (straight ATF or ATF/Keroscene mix) and just work it cleaning often. Removing any metal might damage the "precision" of the ram.
redhawk
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Yo might also try hitting with a rubber mallet while spraying with PB or kroil tap the ram and frame from as many directions as you can to help break it free to let the oil penetrate.
PB tends to dry fairly quick so may may not be best for overnight soak.
Good luck .
You won't beat kroil for soaking something like this, I've tried them all and have been using kroil for almost 40 years. After you get it apart a very fine wire buffing wheel 8" in diameter is your best bet cleaning the ram. Any of the grit papers will damage the ram. Patience and careful thought are the key here.
That’s a great press. With penetrating oils you just have to wait. Nobody wants to. Me included. However, before going to more drastic measures, give the penetrating oil a change to do it’s thing.
I’ve been seeing a lot about the electrolysis method of removing rust. I haven’t tried it yet, but it seems interesting. Maybe it could work in your case, if the penetrating oils don’t.
Kriol, kroil and more kroil!
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
A little heat then oil, a little heat then oil repeat and repeat.
Warm the press with a hair dryer and chill the ram with ice. Make physics work for you.
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As previously stated, kroil with light tapping from both sides. Might wnt to cut the kroil with a solvent to make it thinner allowing it better wetting/creep.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |